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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karsten Duncan, Anthony Anagnostou. May 2006
Page Views: 876 total · 11/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 23, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Three Choclateers is a trad line with a rugged spicy start, followed by a decidedly enjoyable and protected natural line for another 375'. The natural line peters out after those three pitches which gains the broken terrain in the middle of the wall. At this point you can continue up the original ascent line (adds a couple hundred feet of climbing to the summit, with a 5.10 move or two), or descend the easy fixed raps of Ten Minute Shift, or invent your own way to gain the summit.



p1) pull one stiff move to a left-leaning ramp and head up it past small gear. beneath a featured face section, load the crack at your feet with tiny nuts, ballnuts, and a #.75, and climb up on dishes past a manky #2 camalot to another weakness which leads up and left to the main chimney. continue up awkward but very fun featured chimney with pro to a ledge above a bush/wide crack. ~180'. ~9+ PG13

p2) continue up the crack past great rock and fun varied climbing. at ~150', hit a blocky ledge, and continue to a stance at 180'. ~180'. ~9+

p3) climb up the remnants of the crack system to the huge bushy break in the brownstone wall clearly visible from the ground. easy 5th class.

from here, you can walk over to the rappel that takes you down the sport line on the left side of the sand castle face, or to continue on the original line, move to the base of the upper wall where a huge rock creates a 40' gully with a varnished ramp in it leading up and left. scramble up this ramp and belay at the top.

p4) climb up, then step right to the tree on the face, and then move around it to the crack diagonalling up and right through a steep section. step right until almost on the arete, and then go straight up to a belay at a bush on a flat ledge. be careful with rope drag. ~120'. ~5.10-?

p5) continue up the crack system straight up to gain the brownstone ridge. ~170'. ~5.6

Location

Approach: start in the same spot as for Ten Minute Shift, the sport line rising up and right. This also means you can rap back to your packs if you choose not to summit after pitch 3.

Descent from p3 is to find the pine/bolt rap at the top of the sand castle face (see sand castle and hueco thanks description) or continue up to the summit ridge. From the summit ridge, walk towards Vegas, check out the register and the views from the huge pine, and descend via 3/4th class to the base of the wall. This is better described on other brownstone routes, but is a gentle and quick descent.

Protection

Rack: black alien and/or ballnuts. RPs. a screamer or two would be nice. double nuts, lots of runners, double blue alien to #3 camalot, and a #4.

Photos

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