Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: George and Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 70,533 total · 336/month
Shared By: beny on Feb 16, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The is an excellent route that should not be missed- some of the best 5.10 climbing in red rocks. P3,4 offer some incredible stemming, laybacking, and jamming on perfect varnished rock. P2 has great climbing as well- varied.

P1: Start below the right side of the Hourglass on a left-trending low-angled crack. End on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner with a two bolt anchor. 5.6, 150 ft. The length of this pitch will vary depending on how high you are willing to climb unroped.

P2: Step left into the right-facing crack that widens quickly to a chimney. After the chimney ends, make face moves up to the right-leaning, right-facing crack above. This pitch ends at another pretty good ledge with a two bolt anchor. This pitch protects well without large gear. 5.9, 120 ft.

P3: Stunning. Leave the belay with a right facing dihedral fist crack on your left and a perfect finger crack on the right wall. Ascend the corner using both these features until the crack on the right tapers out. Continue up the thin right-facing corner to a ledge with two bolts. This is incredible climbing in a mostly tips corner with occasional face holds. Small wires and tcu's are necessary to supplement the bolts. 5.10+, 110 ft. 7 bolts.

P4. The excellence continues. Keep climbing up the right-facing corner and wonder why there aren't more routes like this. End on a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 80 ft. 2 bolts.

5. Resist the temptation to rap. Climb up a splitter crack of varying sizes on black rock. Overcome the roof, then trend right and up a polished groove to a two-bolt anchor. 80 ft, 5.8.

Notes: P3,4 combine easily with a 70, and it would appear the same with a 60m as well. If you do this with a standard rack, be ready to skip bolts and make things a bit sporty. Above P5 is loose, sandy, difficult to protect and not so great. Enjoy.

Descent: The best option is to rap from the top of P5. The P5 anchors are 1/4" equalized with cord and 2 nuts. 

Every anchor station now has rap rings. 70m works for all except the last rap; either be ready to downclimb 15 feet of 5.6 or bring a 10m pullcord.

Of course, the other option is the Gunsight Notch. This involves some unpleasant 5th class climbing past the P5 anchors. We did this and won't do it again.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for Brownstone Wall. After coming up the slabs, continue up and right to the base of the wall, right of the Hourglass feature. This route takes on the right-facing dihedral that forms the right side of the Hourglass.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack .3-# 4 camalot, nuts, and a lot of slings.