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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,233 total, 18/month
Shared By: Boneware on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Pro Choice is a great line which starts on the right side of the left half of Brown Stone Wall. The crux is a short section on the 4th pitch protected by a bolt.

The three couple pitches run up cool plated rock.

The first pitch is short and easy, and climbs the first pitch of High Anxiety, stopping at a nice ledge before the webbing rainbow that is the first belay of High A.

The second pitch goes up to a small overhang (2 bolts) then heads up the face above on cool dark plated rock, first head a little right, then back left up a steep section with a cool little finger crack in it, to a bolted belay on a small ledge. A little bit of loose rock on this and the next pitch but will clean up nicely with a little more traffic. (5.10)

Third Pitch: Head more or less straight up, the rock continues to improve the higher you get, near the top you could wish for any better. Keep going till you come to a awesome ledge with anchors . (5.9)

Forth Pitch: The business, make some moves up and left (good yellow alien placement) into a swoop/crescent, there is a single bolt here. The rock here is as good as it gets in the Red Rock, to the left is quite possibly the slickest sandstone i have ever seen, it is absolutely beautiful. I won't give away the beta here, there are several ways to get on through, none are easy, and finesse rather than power will be your best ally. Once past the bolt, move into a really cool left facing corner with a great crack in the back (5.8) to the anchors. (5.11)

Location

Head up to the Brownstone wall, where you park is up to you, the hike in is pretty self explanatory. Once there head for the large gully which divides the wall in two. Just to the left side of this gully you will find Pro Choice. You can see the bolts on the second pitch from the ground.

Protection

Rack single set to #2 camalot, doubles of small stuff to #.5 camalot. Double set of nuts/wires especially brassies or the such.

I would say most of the climbing rather than the second half of the last pitch could be done on nuts.

There are bolted anchors at the top of every pitch except the first one.

Rap with 2 60 M ropes, from the top of the second pitch you can make it to the ground in one 60 meter double rope rappel.
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
A very cool line. The last pitch crack is most definitely a rope eater; we worked the knot all the way down to the bowl above the crux and we STILL stuck our rope. Had to re-lead and then downclimb the pitch. 4 days ago
Kris Gorny

  5.11a
Kris Gorny    
  5.11a
Great route and a really good alternative to waiting in line for The Nightcrawler. Fun 2nd and 3rd pitches with non-trivial gear placements, and a thought-provoking crux on the 4th pitch. After significant hiking, we were bummed to see three simultaneous parties on Nightcrawler and two on Time's Up, but we were also very glad to find Pro Choice. Dec 1, 2016
Mary Lane
Nevada
Mary Lane   Nevada
There appears to be a variation or a whole different climb directly to the right of the start of pitch 1 (right at the gully). We started this route by mistake and were wondering if any trollers know if this is a totally different route or just a variation Feb 3, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
This was an enjoyable route on mostly good rock(still a few hollow plates here and there but using your sandstone smarts and tapping before pulling will keep you out of trouble).

The second pitch didn't seem to have any moves that felt .10b as the guidebook suggests. We thought 5.9?

The crux is a fun, balancy sequence. I was glad to have shade for this particular section--I hate to think of how it would feel making those moves if the sun were beating down on that slick varnish. Looks like you can plug in a solid #1 cam after the crux before pulling into the corner.

We rapped to the top of P3, moved right to the anchor on the ledge with the rap rings, double rope rappel from here past the P2 anchors to the chains visible beside vegetated ledge below. Single 60m rope rap from here takes you back to your packs. (The anchor at P2 only had a quicklink on one bolt.) Oct 30, 2013
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.11a
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.11a
I thought this route was great. It climbs like a harder version of Armatron. The crux is way harder/trickier than the rest of the route.

With more traffic, this thing will clean up nicely, although I thought the rock was pretty good for the most part.

Watch the pull on the rappel from the top of pitch 4. We got our rope hopelessly stuck in the crack and had to relead the pitch. Feb 3, 2013
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This route is worth doing once. There is loose & hollow rock on the first 3 pitches. The final 11a pitch is a one move wonder, although the crux is fun on good rock.
I recommend also doing the Pro Life variation to the last pitch. It is much higher quality. Mar 21, 2011