Avg: 2.7 from 21 votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
|Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||2,233 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Boneware on Nov 5, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionPro Choice is a great line which starts on the right side of the left half of Brown Stone Wall. The crux is a short section on the 4th pitch protected by a bolt.
The three couple pitches run up cool plated rock.
The first pitch is short and easy, and climbs the first pitch of High Anxiety, stopping at a nice ledge before the webbing rainbow that is the first belay of High A.
The second pitch goes up to a small overhang (2 bolts) then heads up the face above on cool dark plated rock, first head a little right, then back left up a steep section with a cool little finger crack in it, to a bolted belay on a small ledge. A little bit of loose rock on this and the next pitch but will clean up nicely with a little more traffic. (5.10)
Third Pitch: Head more or less straight up, the rock continues to improve the higher you get, near the top you could wish for any better. Keep going till you come to a awesome ledge with anchors . (5.9)
Forth Pitch: The business, make some moves up and left (good yellow alien placement) into a swoop/crescent, there is a single bolt here. The rock here is as good as it gets in the Red Rock, to the left is quite possibly the slickest sandstone i have ever seen, it is absolutely beautiful. I won't give away the beta here, there are several ways to get on through, none are easy, and finesse rather than power will be your best ally. Once past the bolt, move into a really cool left facing corner with a great crack in the back (5.8) to the anchors. (5.11)
LocationHead up to the Brownstone wall, where you park is up to you, the hike in is pretty self explanatory. Once there head for the large gully which divides the wall in two. Just to the left side of this gully you will find Pro Choice. You can see the bolts on the second pitch from the ground.
ProtectionRack single set to #2 camalot, doubles of small stuff to #.5 camalot. Double set of nuts/wires especially brassies or the such.
I would say most of the climbing rather than the second half of the last pitch could be done on nuts.
There are bolted anchors at the top of every pitch except the first one.
Rap with 2 60 M ropes, from the top of the second pitch you can make it to the ground in one 60 meter double rope rappel.