Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,240 total · 20/month
Shared By: Boneware on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pro Choice is a great line which starts on the right side of the left half of Brown Stone Wall. The crux is a short section on the 4th pitch protected by a bolt.

The three couple pitches run up cool plated rock.

The first pitch is short and easy, and climbs the first pitch of High Anxiety, stopping at a nice ledge before the webbing rainbow that is the first belay of High A.

The second pitch goes up to a small overhang (2 bolts) then heads up the face above on cool dark plated rock, first head a little right, then back left up a steep section with a cool little finger crack in it, to a bolted belay on a small ledge. A little bit of loose rock on this and the next pitch but will clean up nicely with a little more traffic. (5.10)

Third Pitch: Head more or less straight up, the rock continues to improve the higher you get, near the top you could wish for any better. Keep going till you come to a awesome ledge with anchors . (5.9)

Forth Pitch: The business, make some moves up and left (good yellow alien placement) into a swoop/crescent, there is a single bolt here. The rock here is as good as it gets in the Red Rock, to the left is quite possibly the slickest sandstone i have ever seen, it is absolutely beautiful. I won't give away the beta here, there are several ways to get on through, none are easy, and finesse rather than power will be your best ally. Once past the bolt, move into a really cool left facing corner with a great crack in the back (5.8) to the anchors. (5.11)

Location

Head up to the Brownstone wall, where you park is up to you, the hike in is pretty self explanatory. Once there head for the large gully which divides the wall in two. Just to the left side of this gully you will find Pro Choice. You can see the bolts on the second pitch from the ground.

Protection

Rack single set to #2 camalot, doubles of small stuff to #.5 camalot. Double set of nuts/wires especially brassies or the such.

I would say most of the climbing rather than the second half of the last pitch could be done on nuts.

There are bolted anchors at the top of every pitch except the first one.

Rap with 2 60 M ropes, from the top of the second pitch you can make it to the ground in one 60 meter double rope rappel.

Photos