Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
|Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA: Urioste, Ward, Bradley FFA: Harrison, Smith|
|Page Views:||4,299 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||beny on Feb 17, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionTime's Up is the sister route to Nightcrawler, taking on the left side of the Hourglass feature. Start the route by scrambling up easy, low-angled rock as high as comfortable before roping up.
It seems that the red book left out a pitch in the description, so I'll just describe the route as the anchors are setup. See the notes below regarding linkups, etc.
P1: Start on a face and crack that leads up to the left side of the Hourglass. Parts of this pitch are in a shallow left-facing corner; others are on a looser face with cracks. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor. 100 ft, 5.9.
P2: Continue up the cracks and corner with the corner becoming steeper. The rock quality is questionable in spots, but overall a good pitch. Finish up by moving a bit right and mantling onto a good ledge with two bolts (1/4"). 90 ft, 5.10a.
P3: Step right to the chimney/wide crack that faces left. The bolt frequency really starts to pick up here. Follow the crack from chimney to fists, where it suddenly tapers to tips (purple tcu). Utilize face holds to stem up the corner, eventually stepping right to a stance on the arete with a few bolts. 50 ft, 5.10+.
P4: The business. Step back left into a chimney. Wiggle a short distance to its end and move into a layback to overcome a chockstone. Continue up the wide crack as it leans and widens to a bomb bay chimney. Move out left with the chimney to a roof with a perfect dihedral above it. Exiting the roof may remind you of southeast roof climbing, but without the spiders and bugs. The dihedral above the roof is the crux and is desperately thin in places. Thankfully, between all the old bolts and a few spots that widen up, pro is good. You'll find a 2-bolt anchor 25 ft over the roof in a cramped corner with a small roof overhead. This is a horrible belay- see suggestions below for how to avoid it. 110 ft, 5.11+.
P5: As good as the previous 2 pitches were, this one is at the other end of the spectrum. Stem up out of the horrible hanging belay, praying a hold doesn't break and you land on your belayer. Pass several bolts and disgusting rotten rock, eventually reaching better rock. An offwidth roof formed by a left-facing flake should be looming over you at this point. Climb up to the roof, then move right a few steps, following the old bolts out onto an easy face. Follow this to the top of the pillar and a great ledge. Alternatively, you could always go left out the roof and follow the flake/dihedral to the ledge. Either way, this pitch is anything but spectacular and is a major disappointment after the 2 prior pitches. 160 ft, 5.10-.
P6: Climb P5 of Nightcrawler- splitter crack to a roof, then up right over a roof to an anchor. 80 ft, 5.8R.
Notes: P1,2 are easy linkups if you start the route from a high ledge. A 60m cord reaches just barely. One of the lower pitches seems to be left-out in the red book. Hopefully, you won't be confused by the discrepancy between this description and the guide. There are many, many bolts on the crux pitches. Expect to need to clip some unless you're a stud on the rp action. To avoid the horrible belay stance on top of P4, climb past the 2 bolt anchor. Stop about 25 ft into pitch 5 at a stance on black rock with a bolt a few feet above. Save a piece or two in the 1/2"-1" range to back up the bolt. This still isn't a great spot, but its works better than the standard belay. P3,4 are excellent pitches and if it wasn't for the pitches above, this route would be 4 stars.