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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Weidner, Heather Weidner January 6, 2015
Page Views: 230 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jan 12, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route ascends the chimney system just right of Sand Castle.
It's named after Dave Pegg, who died in 2014. This route would be as unattractive to him -- being primarily a sport climber -- as his beat-up legs (from kneebars) were to everyone else.

p1: Climb 20 feet of unprotected face (5.7 R) to a much easier crack and face. Tiptoe past some blocks to a nice, flat alcove beneath a white overhang. 5.7, 40 meters.

p2: Thrutch past the right side of the overhang (harder than it looks), then continue up a crack to a ledge beneath a tree and wide chimney. 5.11b, 25 meters.

p3: Either climb the chimney or its left arete (small gear) to start, then climb flakes until you're funneled into the crack. Squeeze up the smooth, varnished slot (optional belay on top) and continue up easier rock, veering left, to finish on a flat ledge at the top. 5.8, 55 meters.

Location

To descend walk 30 feet climber's left to the top of Ten Minute Shift. Rappel that route in 4 or 5 single-rope raps.

[*We replaced the webbing on 4 anchors but it's a good idea to have webbing and a knife to improve existing tat].

Protection

1ea: small-medium nuts; #1 Metolius - #4 Camalot
2ea: #.5 - #1 Camalot

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