Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Chris Weidner, Heather Weidner January 6, 2015|
|Page Views:||230 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Weidner on Jan 12, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route ascends the chimney system just right of Sand Castle.
It's named after Dave Pegg, who died in 2014. This route would be as unattractive to him -- being primarily a sport climber -- as his beat-up legs (from kneebars) were to everyone else.
p1: Climb 20 feet of unprotected face (5.7 R) to a much easier crack and face. Tiptoe past some blocks to a nice, flat alcove beneath a white overhang. 5.7, 40 meters.
p2: Thrutch past the right side of the overhang (harder than it looks), then continue up a crack to a ledge beneath a tree and wide chimney. 5.11b, 25 meters.
p3: Either climb the chimney or its left arete (small gear) to start, then climb flakes until you're funneled into the crack. Squeeze up the smooth, varnished slot (optional belay on top) and continue up easier rock, veering left, to finish on a flat ledge at the top. 5.8, 55 meters.
LocationTo descend walk 30 feet climber's left to the top of Ten Minute Shift. Rappel that route in 4 or 5 single-rope raps.
[*We replaced the webbing on 4 anchors but it's a good idea to have webbing and a knife to improve existing tat].