Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: The Uriostes and friends
Page Views: 14,493 total · 58/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Feb 18, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Power Failure is a fabulous 3 pitch route the ascends to the right of the prominent water streak visible in the photo. The route starts up hill from Ginger Cracks and just down hill from the water streaks. The route ends in the huge horse shoe basin. Pitch 1: (130' 5.8) 30' to a bushy ledge then left and up past bolts to belay on the right. Pitch 2: (160' 5.10) climb thin crack to a left facing dihederal. Pitch 3: (160' 5.9) left and up black face to the left of the left facing dihederal. This route is another Urioste classic, enjoy

Descent: From the top bolted anchor - which is at the base of a dirty and vegetated bowl, there are two ways to descend using double ropes. 1) Make two double-rope raps with 60m ropes by dropping virtually straight down (i.e., to climber's left of Power Failure); this way uses an intermediate rap anchor with a tiny ledge; be mindful of your rope ends as the first rap is about 50 to 55 meters. Or 2) make three double-rope raps back down Power Failure (i.e., trend climber's right) from the top bolted anchor.

You can descend with a single 70m rope by rappelling down “All You Can Eat” to the right of the route.  From the top, scramble easy terrain up and right to the end of the bowl.  4 rappels will bring you back to the base.

Update: There are new bolted anchors and rings about 10-20 feet climbers left of the old ones for Power Failure. You can now do 4 single rope raps with a 70 meter to the ground.

BE CAREFUL!!

Be aware and cautious of teams descending the basin above. The horseshoe bowl above the route is a feeding chute for all things loose. Typically teams descending Ginger Cracks rap into that basin and scramble down to the first rap (last anchor) of Power Failure. It is just too easy to knock rocks off and straight down the Power Failure climb.

Protection Suggest change

A single rack from 0.1-2 is sufficient, doubles in fingers could be nice.  There are some bolts on the first and second pitches but supplemental gear is necessary.  3rd pitch is all gear.  All anchors are 2 bolt rap anchors.

Photos

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