All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress

Dry Rub

Name: Dry Rub
Rating: 2.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Ginger Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Salty Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
	Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 7 pitches
GPS:	36.11213, -115.48829
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	771 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Rprops on Nov 16, 2021
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Except for the bushes on the 2nd pitch, this route is good and very straightforward. Cracks, chimneys, good protection, and short, safe cruxes on good rock are what you'll find bottom to top.

P0. 90m 5.8. Climb Waterstreak Chimney. Walk to the back right of the bowl. Identify the direct line leading from the left of the orange face of Thyme Alone to the base.

P1. 65m. 5.7 Climb the cracks through the trees to a comfy belay at the base of some rock stairs.

P2. 25m. 10a. The direct line through the bulge may be climbable, but unknown difficulty and protection sent us right, to the ledge, manteling through thick trees, to another overhang above. Up and left through the overhang (10a, well protected, fun) to a comfortable stance on the left, a bit below the chimney.

P3. 40m. 5.9+. This pitch is great. Climb a world class flared chimney to quality handcrack. Belay in a comfortable large chimney.

P4. 55m. 5.9+. Climb the soft rock and chimney to the top, exit right (tricky), and repeat. Chimney up to that roof, exit right (trickier) and climb the fun triangle chimney, to yet another chimney belay.

P5. 60m. 10+. At the mouth of the chimney is a set of cracks on either side of the wall. Work these until taking the climbers right option toward the prettiest rock on the route. Climb the smooth crack until reaching the offwidth opening to the alcove. The route crux lies above this, so either belay here, or double check you still have some necessary cams (.3, .5, 2, 3, 1 large) and fire the wide stem to boulder problem. Belay on the massive ledge above.

P6. 30m. 5.9. Climb the pretty stem box, and follow the protectable crack slightly right to the next belay ledge.

P7. 60m. 10a. The big crack on the left wall starts with a single burly move in a 6" crack through a roof. After that, cruiser 5.8 or easier to the top, passing 2 small cave features. Belay in a notch at the top of the wall.

Follow a heavily cairned hikers trail down, (go skiers right just after hitting the cairns) which eventually exit the bowl below Rainbow Wall.

Location

The bowl above Waterstreak Chimney has many cracks. This is the direct line leading to the left side of the orange face 300' in the air.

Protection

Doubles .1-3. Single 4-6. Nuts.

All cruxes are brief and safe, and this route could definitely be banged out at fun 5.9 C1 by pulling on a cam at the cruxes.