Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Mike Ward 1984
Page Views: 1,085 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Apr 4, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This clean-cut beauty is a great, pure splitter. Along with others like it, it is very unique to Red Rock. The only thing it lacks, from my knowledge, is a good anchor. It is definitely worth throwing a couple extra cams in the pack if you're going to be in the area.

From the right side of the ledge, climb a cool, lower angle thin hands crack past a bush (or the chimney to the left). Once at the dead vertical (perhaps slightly overhanging) headwall, some broken up handcracks lead to the base of the main course where a #3 will fit. For some it'll turn out to be pretty solid fists. For others, something a little more awkward! The crack and face are spectacularly clean. Eventually, the rock and crack become more broken up again and the rock quality gets, well, a little worse.

Location

The route is obvious from the base of power failure. It's not really on the Ginger buttress. Continue up the gully, scrambling a bit, until a steep little bulge must be pulled to gain the big ledge at the base of the route.

Protection

Double up on everything from big fingers to hands with 3x #3s and 1-3x#4. The business is splitter #4 and you can walk one above you the whole way (easy) so only 1 is really needed. 3x #3s is a good idea.

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.10c
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.10c
I rapped off a fixed #2 camalot with a long cord clipped to it. It might be possible to continue to the top of the shoulder and rap off a tree back there. Or maybe there's an actual anchor up there. Going right after the crack ends to gain the top might work, but the rock looked a little scary over there. Going straight up, past the fixed #2, is also maybe possible. I had a 70m. A 60m from the #2 would probably work, but'd be close. Apr 4, 2013
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
cool to post, thanks, have wanted to do this in combo every time we head to that area but have never bothered to go look, nice post! May 7, 2013