Type: Trad, 325 ft (98 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 490 total · 27/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 5, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Spice is a line of unknown origin that was rediscovered, documented, and given a name by Larry DeAngelo in the early 2000’s (see comment below). Recently it has been extended by another pitch to a logical conclusion higher on the wall. This final pitch, dubbed “The Pepperberry” is a great pitch of climbing that really adds to the route, both in terms of quality and difficulty. More traffic would really clean this route up - a great outing would be to do both this and its neighbor, Sugar, which is of similar difficulty and offers even better climbing. From the top of The Pepperberry finish, one can easily connect with the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks if you want to continue with that route. Alternatively, one can rappel with a single 60m rope.

P1 (5.7, 60’): Climb a gully of sorts that is about 30’ right of the start of Ginger Cracks. This gully turns into a corner with broken cracks and leads to a good belay ledge at a tree. A short pitch.

P2 (5.9, 175’): Climb a long corner system that eventually thins to a seam with a good edge. The gear is a bit tricky in spots but overall this is a good, long pitch that leads to a bolted belay at a foothold. This pitch can be broken up into two shorter pitches by traversing right to the P2 belay on Sugar at a bolt. Note that an old Star Drive bolt high on this pitch has been removed due to its proximity to bombproof gear placements.

P3 (5.10c, 90’): The Pepperberry. Some nice climbing. Head up a seam above the belay then work left to a second seam (bolt) which is followed (crux) to a left-facing corner. At a roof where the corner changes to become right-facing, step right (mind your rope drag) out of the corner to a bolt, and work up and right to easier climbing up a thin crack to an anchor.

Descent: Rap the last pitch then continue down Sugar from there. Alternatively, climb up and left to join the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks.

Location

Approximately 40' right of Ginger Cracks at a gully/corner just left of the low buttress where Sugar starts.

Protection

1-2x from small to #1 Camalot.
Stoppers.
A few larger cams are optional.
60m rope.

All of the anchors have been improved with better hardware for descent. One unnecessary pro bolt on the second pitch was removed. All hardware is adequate as of 2019.

Photos