All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress

Spice

Name: Spice
Rating: 2.7

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in Ginger Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Salty Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Snake Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
	Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 325 ft (98 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	36.11213, -115.48829
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,363 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Nov 5, 2019
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Spice is a line of unknown origin that was rediscovered, documented, and given a name by Larry DeAngelo in the early 2000’s (see comment below). Recently it has been extended by another pitch to a logical conclusion higher on the wall. This final pitch, dubbed “The Pepperberry” is a great pitch of climbing that really adds to the route, both in terms of quality and difficulty. More traffic would really clean this route up - a great outing would be to do both this and its neighbor, Sugar, which is of similar difficulty and offers even better climbing. From the top of The Pepperberry finish, one can easily connect with the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks if you want to continue with that route. Alternatively, one can rappel with a single 60m rope.

P1 (5.7, 60’): Climb a gully of sorts that is about 30’ right of the start of Ginger Cracks. This gully turns into a corner with broken cracks and leads to a good belay ledge at a tree. A short pitch.

P2 (5.9, 175’): Climb a long corner system that eventually thins to a seam with a good edge. The gear is a bit tricky in spots but overall this is a good, long pitch that leads to a bolted belay at a foothold. This pitch can be broken up into two shorter pitches by traversing right to the P2 belay on Sugar at a bolt. Note that an old Star Drive bolt high on this pitch has been removed due to its proximity to bombproof gear placements.

P3 (5.10c, 90’): The Pepperberry. Some nice climbing. Head up a seam above the belay then work left to a second seam (bolt) which is followed (crux) to a left-facing corner. At a roof where the corner changes to become right-facing, step right (mind your rope drag) out of the corner to a bolt, and work up and right to easier climbing up a thin crack to an anchor.

Descent: Rap the last pitch then continue down Sugar from there. Alternatively, climb up and left to join the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks.

Location

Approximately 40' right of Ginger Cracks at a gully/corner just left of the low buttress where Sugar starts.

Protection

1-2x from small to #1 Camalot.
Stoppers.
A few larger cams are optional.
60m rope.

All of the anchors have been improved with better hardware for descent. One unnecessary pro bolt on the second pitch was removed. All hardware is adequate as of 2019.