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Routes in Ginger Buttress

All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blade Runner (aka The Ginger ArĂȘte) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cayenne corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Failure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland
Page Views: 1,431 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Apr 23, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Cayenne corners is a sick route that gets a slightly vague description in the new guide book. The book shows only the first pitch with an ever-so-slightly misplaced arrow, it actually starts in the left facing corner just to the right. (cayenne corners, duh! excuse us, we're a little slow! LOL) The 10d pitch does not pull the roof proper but traverses to the right to pull it and then climbs the thin, long right facing corner. The 10c pitch was also great but the 6 inch piece was not needed in hindsight. (If you've gotten here clean, you don't need it, although it was nice to have... we bought one for the route and regretted spending the money) We placed it once: Apprx. 15 foot section of run-out 5.8 without it.

Location

This route is easily recognized with Handren's guidebook by the roofs and corners. We were off our game as we let the arrow in the photo make us miss the first corner (cayenne "corners", duh!) and my buddy was lost under the 10d roof, pulling it directly for really easy face climbing above. Our rappel revealed the incredible looking corner that we missed on that pitch! (cayenne corners, duh!!) Basically its the route in the deep corner to the right of ginger cracks, power failure, and unimpeachable groping... Killer route, well done, definitely deserves the star!

Protection

Double up on .5 and down; the 10d corner was mostly fingers. Single rack to 4". a few runners, 6" piece if you've got it.

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
Fantastic route! This deserves to be more popular; however I would recommend skipping P5 as it was uninteresting, vegetated, and dirty. As with most RR routes, be careful when pulling your rappel lines, there are numerous places for them to snag.

Read on for cruz beta, or skip if you want more of an adventure!

P1: As mentioned, be sure to start a little to the right of the line pictured in Handren's guidebook. You'll be in a varnished dihedral w/ a single bolt. Really fun climbing.
P2: Roof is really cool. #2 BD protects it. I won't give it all away, but I'd say 5.10- if you have a long reach or thin fingers. 5.10+ if you're shorter and have thicker fingers. The dihedral afterward takes creative gear placements.
P3: Nothing too special, but some slightly run out face climbing
P4: Found this to be super fun but harder than P2 roof. #3 & 4 BD protects. Feetless traverse on wide hands gets you to the high-right stance before clearing the roof. Did I say fun already?
P5: Not worth it. May 15, 2017
Pitch 1 corner was actually really nice and fun, a fat varnished 5.9 dihedral. After pulling the memorable roof on pitch 2, the right facing finger crack is SUPER narrow but then opens up wide once inside, so gear is tricky, but honestly the climbing is chill once past the roof. May 8, 2017
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
It seems that the usually sound beta garnered from the Handren guidebook was not so sound this time around. If you want to hear a significantly more accurate description, read on. If not, well, we made it up the route with the Handren description, so you probably could too.

P.1 (165' 5.9ish) Climb a left facing corner in varnished rock, passing a bolt at the base of the corner. Continue up corner and crack, eventually stepping left to a two bolt anchor in white rock.

P.2 (180' 5.10+) Step back right into the crack and climb up to square cut roof above a right facing corner. Traverse right under the roof, pulling up and around into right facing corner. Continue up crack to two bolt anchor on the left.

P.3 (120' 5.8ish) Move left and climb the mossy crack left of a shallow dihedral. Follow crack until it is easy to escape right across slabs to the base of a pillar. Climb left side of pillar and belay on top from a fixed pin and bolt anchor.

P.4 (5.10 115') Climb the obvious splitter crack up to the roof, traverse right out under the roof and climb around the right edge of the roof. Continue up crack, past some foliage and mossy face climbing to a two bolt anchor on the left below a small roof.

P.5 (90' 5.9ish) Climb up past a fixed pin, traverse left around the roof, climb widening crack through some foliage to face climbing and a fixed pin/bolt anchor on the left.

Overall a good route. Oct 24, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
 
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
 
FA: Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland, 2000.
Total height: 690'
1st pitch:165' 5.9
2nd pitch: 185' 5.10d
3rd pitch: 110' 5.9
4th pitch: 140' 5.10b/c
5th pitch: 90' 5.9
rappel the route w/ two ropes Nov 9, 2009