Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête)
Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
Routes in Ginger Buttress
|All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cayenne corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Power Failure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Sugar and Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,294 total, 51/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Nov 10, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionHigh on the east face of Rainbow Mountain and just above Ginger Cracks is a striking, 350' knife-edge arête. Blade Runner - AKA The Ginger Arête - climbs this feature in three wild pitches. The line, which is easily visible from the highway (and unmistakable when illuminated by the morning sun), is both really fun climbing and, for those capable of climbing the grade, destined to become the natural finish to Ginger Cracks. Keep in mind, however, that this route is demanding: Though the hard moves are all well-protected, you don't get pro every body length. Also, as is the case with many routes in Red Rocks that haven't received much traffic, Blade Runner has quite a few fragile holds and thin, hollow flakes. The route will undoubtedly clean up with time, but the climbing will "feel" harder because the rock demands a light touch.
Approach: Climb Ginger Cracks through pitch 5 to the beginning of the 4th class 6th pitch. Rather than scramble up to the start of the final corner pitch, look right: Careful study of the arête will reveal a lone bolt about 25' up. Begin here.
P1 (110', 5.8): Climb up incut but fragile holds on the face just left of the arête passing a few optional gear placements en-route to the first bolt. Avoid a huge, overhanging block directly on the arête by moving back left to gain a short hand crack splitting a large patch of black varnish. Continue briefly up this before returning again to the arête and a second bolt. Four more bolts lead directly up the exposed edge to an awesome belay platform. A total of 6 bolts and some hand-sized cams protect.
P2 (130', 5.10b): Climb directly up the arête passing 9 bolts for protection. Belay on a great ledge formed by an oven-sized block (careful). This pitch is amazing.
P3 (110', 5.9): Continue up the arête, climbing on both sides, passing 5 bolts before gaining a low angle hand crack. Follow this to a sixth bolt and a final traverse left on an obvious ledge to a bolted anchor. Again, 6 bolts and some hand-sized cams protect.
To descend, rappel straight down from the anchor with one 60m rope to a dedicated rappel anchor (do not skip this anchor on rappel or your rope will get stuck). One more single-rope rap leads to the notch between the main wall and the standard top out of Ginger Cracks. From here a third single-rope rap off a slung chockstone leads down into the bowl above Power Failure.