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Routes in Ginger Buttress

All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cayenne corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Failure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,294 total, 51/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 10, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

High on the east face of Rainbow Mountain and just above Ginger Cracks is a striking, 350'’ knife-edge arête. Blade Runner - AKA The Ginger Arête - climbs this feature in three wild pitches. The line, which is easily visible from the highway (and unmistakable when illuminated by the morning sun), is both really fun climbing and, for those capable of climbing the grade, destined to become the natural finish to Ginger Cracks. Keep in mind, however, that this route is demanding: Though the hard moves are all well-protected, you don't get pro every body length. Also, as is the case with many routes in Red Rocks that haven't received much traffic, Blade Runner has quite a few fragile holds and thin, hollow flakes. The route will undoubtedly clean up with time, but the climbing will "feel" harder because the rock demands a light touch.

Approach: Climb Ginger Cracks through pitch 5 to the beginning of the “4th class” 6th pitch. Rather than scramble up to the start of the final corner pitch, look right: Careful study of the arête will reveal a lone bolt about 25’' up. Begin here.

P1 (110’', 5.8): Climb up incut but fragile holds on the face just left of the arête passing a few optional gear placements en-route to the first bolt. Avoid a huge, overhanging block directly on the arête by moving back left to gain a short hand crack splitting a large patch of black varnish. Continue briefly up this before returning again to the arête and a second bolt. Four more bolts lead directly up the exposed edge to an awesome belay platform. A total of 6 bolts and some hand-sized cams protect.

P2 (130'’, 5.10b): Climb directly up the arête passing 9 bolts for protection. Belay on a great ledge formed by an oven-sized block (careful). This pitch is amazing.

P3 (110’', 5.9): Continue up the arête, climbing on both sides, passing 5 bolts before gaining a low angle hand crack. Follow this to a sixth bolt and a final traverse left on an obvious ledge to a bolted anchor. Again, 6 bolts and some hand-sized cams protect.

To descend, rappel straight down from the anchor with one 60m rope to a dedicated rappel anchor (do not skip this anchor on rappel or your rope will get stuck). One more single-rope rap leads to the notch between the main wall and the standard top out of Ginger Cracks. From here a third single-rope rap off a slung chockstone leads down into the bowl above Power Failure.

Protection

9x draws, some hand-sized cams, and at least a 60m rope.

Photos

kalockwood
SLC, UT
 
kalockwood   SLC, UT
 
Climbed this after the first 5 pitches of Ginger. Amazing position and exposure. I haven't climbed anything quite like this before. The rock didn't seem too fragile as long as it's dry. The start of pitch 2 is really exciting.

One note on pitch 3: after traversing the obvious ledge to the left, you need to climb up another 10 feet or so to find the anchor. I expected to see it on the ledge, but it's higher and hard to see at first.

No problem pulling the ropes, we used the dedicated anchor. Nov 27, 2017
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
Fun route. Appropriate for Halloween. ;) Sep 23, 2016
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
Careful of the flake on the 2nd pitch ;) Oct 8, 2017
Bryan Bornholdt
Las Vegas, NV
Bryan Bornholdt   Las Vegas, NV
Did Unimpeachable Groping and then Ginger Cracks afterward to access Blade Runner today. There is still quite a bit of lichen on the rock and the rock is very soft. We felt Unimpeachable Groping is a far better route.

The position is pretty cool (wild is fitting) and the climbing is interesting but the quality of the rock is very suspect. Critical holds may not last very long. We were trying to be very careful in placing our hands and feet and yet a few holds fell away when we lifted our feet off of them. My partner, JJ, did a great job of on-sighting the crux pitch late in the day.

A 5.10 leader will find this route scary as it feels very committing.

Kudos to the first ascentionists!

OH! We did a single rappel with two ropes and had a horrible time pulling the ropes. Be careful where your ropes run. A small groove or tiny flake could cause problems. Nov 22, 2015
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Looks like a great addition to existing routes on the buttress. Adding it to the list. Thanks. Nov 18, 2015