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Routes in Ginger Buttress

All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blade Runner (aka The Ginger ArĂȘte) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cayenne corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Failure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kal Conley, Geoff Conley, Anthony Anagnostou
Page Views: 1,259 total, 19/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on May 6, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

All You Can Eat is a fine rock climb that appeases all the types of climbers out there. The smooth corners that make up the first two pitches are a rarity in Red Rock and satisfy those looking to climb some good, splitter crack. It shares the same first half of Power Failure's first pitch. Look for the bolt.

Approach Pitch: This can easily be soloed or rope up if you want. Start at the 1st pitch of Power Failure up to the first bolt. Pull onto the ledge and walk climber's right to a obtuse corner crack system.

There are two options for the first pitch. Both are high quality and engaging.

Pitch 1.a: Start out in the adjacent crack to the left of the obtuse right facing crack and traverse back into the crack above the 2nd bolt. The Direct goes straight up through both bolts and goes at 5.11d. The 11d is comprised of holds facing "the wrong way" and some longer reaches to better holds. The crux is low on the left crack. Strenuous liebacking and a thrilling step across move leads back into the main crack. Once above the 2nd bolt climb easier rock to a nice belay ledge. Two bolt anchor. 90' 5.10c/d, height dependent.

Pitch 1.b: About 25' to the right of the regular start is an offwidth corner/left facing crack. Climb the offwidth to a hand crack. From here the crack constricts and is tips liebacking. Lieback up under the block and surmount the block. Traverse left on a left slanting finger crack and up onto the pillar. 100' 5.11b

Pitch 2: Climb up the left facing corner/crack system past two bolts. The bolts are not necessary if you have small cams and stoppers. The crack goes from tips, to hands to a wide flare past a set of anchors. Skip these and go up to the next set of anchors. There is some loose rock in this section but good cam placements can be found on solid varnish. 100' 5.10a

From here we rapped with a single rope but the route continues up for three more pitches. The following pitches are 5.10c, 5.10d and 5.9. All can be rappelled with a single 60m rope.

Location

Starts at Power Failure.

Protection

Single Rack to 5" for the first 2 pitches. RP's and C3's are very helpful. For the remaining pitches add double 6"-8" cams.

Photos

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