Type: Trad, 1700 ft (515 m), 14 pitches, Grade V
FA: Boyce Chapko Spring 2022
Page Views: 1,598 total · 55/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Feb 21, 2022
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the buttress that lies above blade runner. It is one of the most distinct lines in red rock. The rock and climbing are typically quite good but it definitely falls into the category of an adventure climb. There are a couple short, isolated sections of friable rock and without a light touch it is possible to send rocks down on cayenne corners and it’s neighboring routes. Climbing to the summit adds about 700’ of climbing and makes for a high quality sustained day of moderate climbing. 

P1-8 climb to the top of the blade runner buttress. If approaching via ginger cracks it is possible to link this into 5 pitches with a 70m rope.

P9 40’ 5.8 walk back to the notch behind the blade runner tower, make an awkward step over onto the protruding buttress. Belay in good cracks just above. It is possible to link into the next pitch with rope drag. 

P10 120’ 5.8+ traverse the blank looking slab and pull up steep honeycomb rock. Work your way up rambling terrain to a big ledge on the prow of the ridge.

P11 120’ 5.9+ head up nice cracks on prow to a rotten crack. We named this the Bialetti pillar as a nod to our friend Kyle, and just like it’s namesake mocha pot, it may make you shit your pants (it’s not that bad… and you can place good gear above your head…) The pillar is super short lived and only about 8 ft long, it’s capped with a small roof. The rock on the face above the roof is far better than it looks. Continue a short ways and belay at a small tree. It looks possible to avoid the choss pillar by climbing the nice looking face/arete 20 ft to the right at about 5.9R (30’ run).

P12 170’ 5.8 climb a nice splitter crack straight up the face to a ledge with bolted anchor. Don’t clip anchor and step right on the slab. Continue up to a big ledge, traverse the slabby gully and belay behind a large ponderosa pine.

*There was a bolted pitch that came up the face to climbers left. We later learned that this was an old Urioste project. After talking with them they said they had considered taking the line to the summit, but never got around to finishing the route. 

P13 120’ 5.9 climb the tree for 40’, sling it for pro, then step into the OW. Climb easily to a ledge. Step right and climb a poorly protected face that trends back into the main crack (loose flakes) Continue up crack to large ledge. We took the tree route as we didn’t have any large gear, If you bring a 4 or 5 it’s probably easier to climb the ow from the bottom. 

P14 130’ 5.5 ramble up slabs and overlaps to the ridge crest, walk back a ways and belay on one of the large trees.

From here it’s about a 300’ scramble to the summit of E peak.

Descent: there are many descent options from the summit of E peak. We took the chicken lips descent which seemed direct and quick. From the summit of east peak head west to the first notch, drop down to the oak creek side of the notch. Meander down and skiers right until things cliff out, there should be a cairn indicating where to go for the anchor (Thomas G posted helpful beta on the chicken lips page). Make a single, 33M rappel. Then head skiers left and scramble down, past the gully to the top of solar slab. From here, take the standard black Orpheus descent. 2-3 hrs

Location Suggest change

Start on any ginger buttress route that approaches blade runner, then take blade runner to the top of that tower. 

Protection Suggest change

Single rack .2-3, doubles .4-2, optional 4 OR 5

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