Type: Sport, 760 ft (230 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Clifford and Jorge Urioste 1999
Page Views: 121,946 total · 496/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Mar 9, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An absolutely fabulous route destined for "classic" status. Originally done in seven pitches of excellent steep 5.10 face climbing. The route was later continued a few pitches higher by the late Zack Martin. Zack passed on before I could get any information about his extension, so I will only include the first seven pitches in this description. And hope that somebody will fill in the rest.

The route starts halfway between Ginger Cracks and Power Failure. Find the only big tree in sight and scurry up it till you can reach the 1st bolt.

P1: (130' 5.10) After the tree climb up through a right-facing corner and up left past 10 bolts to a 4-bolt belay.

P2: (120' 5.10) Up and left following 11 bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P3: (50' 5.10) Climb up to the big ledge via crack and face past 5 bolts. Should be combined with P2 to avoid hanging belay.

P4: (120' 5.10+) Follow bolts through the roof via the right-facing corner, past a rap anchor at 40', then up and right to a 2-bolt belay.

P5: (80' 5.10+) Steep face past bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P6: (80' 5.10+) Up the steep face to a 2-bolt belay. Stop here if rapping the route, or continue higher to a nice ledge with an anchor.

P7: (150' 5.8) Head up pleasant face climbing to the top.

Descent:

Rappel straight down into the bowl (new rap anchor near the lip). From the spot where you land in the upper reaches of the bowl, pull and coil your rope(s). Do not head down into the bowl! Instead, look for a cairned path through a patch of scrub oak between you and the edge of the cliff. Following this path for 15 seconds leads to a ledge and a pair of ring bolts. Rap straight down via bolted anchors 5 or 6 times with a single 60m rope (or fewer with two ropes). This is the route All You Can Eat - be wary of other climbers who may be below you. For more information see: Rap Beta

Protection Suggest change

15 draws and a small rack of stoppers and cams to 2"

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