Type: Sport, 760 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Clifford and Jorge Urioste 1999
Page Views: 77,072 total · 418/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Mar 9, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


An absolutely fabulous route destined for "classic" status. Originally done in seven pitches of excellent steep 5.10 face climbing. The route was later continued a few pitches higher by the late Zack Martin. Zack passed on before I could get any information about his extension, so I will only include the first seven pitches in this description. And hope that somebody will fill in the rest.

The route starts halfway between Ginger Cracks and Power Failure. Find the only big tree in sight and scurry up it till you can reach the 1st bolt.

P1: (130' 5.10) After the tree climb up through a right-facing corner and up left past bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P2: (150' 5.10) Up and left following bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P3: (40' 5.10) Climb up to the big ledge via crack and face.

P4: (120' 5.10+) Follow bolts through the roof via the right-facing corner then up and right to a 2-bolt belay.

P5: (80' 5.10+) Steep face past bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P6: (80' 5.10+) Up the steep face to a 2-bolt belay.

P7: (160' 5.10+) Head up and left toward the top of the pillar.

P8,9,10: (???) This route is steep and sustained and can be cleanly rapped from the top of the seventh pitch.


15 draws and a small rack of stoppers and cams to 2"


Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
Climbed this great route 5/03/04. If you want to rap the route stop at the belay at the the top of P6. If you want to finish continue past this anchor about 40 feet to a large flat ledge with two bolts. And shade. P7 is 130 feet of solid 5.8 climbing and takes you to the top of Ginger Buttress (single bolt). From there we descended as for Ginger Cracks, one rap to the horseshoe basin above Power Failure and three down that route. We brought TCUs and a set of nuts and placed a total of three pieces. I think if I do it again I will take the orange Metolius TCU and 14 draws. There are a couple of homemade hangers on the wall above the top but it looks pretty serious up there. We felt this climb as good or better than Prince of Darkness in a much more dramatic setting. May 6, 2004
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
I am going to Red Rocks to climb this route. On what pitch did you use the "orange metolius TCU"? did you need a buttbag for any of the belays or were there good stances at the belay stations? did you need two ropes to rappel or was one 60 meter enough? Thanx Sep 10, 2004
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
For pictures, trip report and other beta about this route, check out our web site: ericandlucie.com/Website200… Oct 15, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Climbed 11/27/04. Fantastic route - one of the best in the well-protected, multipitch sportclimb variety. The roof pitch (P4 in Phil's description) is not to be missed!! We brought a full set of nuts and single set of cams to 2" and felt we had way too much (placed a total of 3 or 4 pieces in 6 pitches without having to run it out). Next time I would bring a few nuts and possibly 2 or 3 TCUs, plus draws. Climbing with double ropes allows for an easy descent (3 or 4 raps) from the top of pitch 6. I think the following pitch lengths are a little closer:

P1: 120'
P2: 120'
P3: 25' (better to combine w/P2)
P4: 100'
P5: 90'
P6: 80'

There is a nice photo of the route with the line drawn in at Eric and Lucie's website. Nov 29, 2004
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Hey i tried this route and had to back out cause of the heat....I am going to be in Vegas from december 11 to January 4th. I live and work in boulder and would be willing to put anyone up this spring/fall/summer if they could find it in their hearts to let me stay with them for any or all of these dates. Plus I could housesit(great with any and all animals and plants) and I have references...if you have friends relatives with such needs.If nothing else, if anyone is interested in climbing this route during the christmas break drop me an email.b.p. email:aquaman55@hotmail.com Dec 1, 2004
Anthony Anagnostou   nyc
great route. absolutely great protection. generally, bolts every body length, sometimes less. there are two 'runouts' on the route, but both are on easier climbing, and take decent trad gear. a small selection of nuts and a couple thin to finger-size TCUs, as suggested, will sew the route up.

i dont really think the route is as hard as the beta would suggest. the roof pitch, IMO, is definitely not 5.10+. the second pitch was the hardest for me, technically, and a couple of very steep upper pitches might be the crux for someone with forearms unused to vertical-ish face. Mar 13, 2005
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Delicate moves on delicate rock.

One more bolt on the first pitch would be nice, to encourage people to leave the tree alone. The pitch would still go at about 5.10.

There are a couple of points where 24-36" runners alleviate rope drag.

I thought the final pitch was 5.8 when a partner & I did it as the final pitch of Ginger Cracks, last year. Nov 29, 2005
Good route. I found it to be better than Prince of Darkness. Not sure if I would give it a 10D or 10+ rating like the guide books, however, fun and sustained face climbing for six pitches.

Gear: 15 draws, 1-2 TCUs in the finger-size range. As a side note, we did the route without placing a single piece of gear and never felt run out.

There is a nice ledge at the top of pitch three with a great view.

Easy rap with 2 ropes. Apr 17, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
I recently climbed this route, and wanted to add a few points for others to follow:

There are multiple rap anchors on this route at various lengths. On two occasions this led my partner to stop short of the "true anchors."

1) One spot was on pitch 2 where there are two bolts placed vertically less that 2 ft. apart, but if you continue up about 15 more feet you'll see the rap rings.
2) There was another spot on the 4th pitch where you encounter a set of rap rings well before the higher anchor. Presumably these where you rap to if you don't complete the 7th pitch (this is what we did and they were almost right at 60m).

ALSO be sure to knot the ends of your ropes when you rap. From the rap rings shortly above the 4th roof pitch, gravity takes you left of the bolt line. IF you continue past the pitch 2 belay station to the pitch one belay station it will require you to stretch your rope. I weigh 185lbs. and I had to reach out with a runner to clip the anchors below me to make it. Fortunately, I'd knotted my rope ends as they were tight against my belay device. BE CAREFUL! The benefit of this is that we got down in 3 rappels...

This is a fun route (much more enjoyable than POD), and it didn't seem too loose. I would recommend linking pitches 2 and 3, and only bring 20 draws. IMO if you are at all comfortable at this grade you won't feel the need to place any gear. There was only one spot towards the start of pitch 2 that was even remotely runout... but it was easy. Dec 11, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
One more thing... when approaching this route you need to keep your eyes peeled for the tree at the start. We passed it on our approach as there is another LARGER pine tree about 100 yards up the gully towards the waterstreak (Power Failure) and you crawl under some shrubbery as you're passing the start of the climb. The start of U.G. truly does climb a tree, that is an arm's length from the wall. It seems like a simple mistake, but it cost us about 30 minutes scouring the wall looking for bolts about 100 yards uphill from where we should have been... DOH! Dec 11, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
The moves on this route are more interesting and varied than those of POD but the rock is quite a bit more suspect. If not for the overabundance of bolts I would applaud the route more. Overall this route provides a nice jaunt up several nice pitches. I would have to say I agree that the overall rating would be a bit more like .10c but who knows what will be broken the next time someone does it.

I would recommend taking no gear and linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches as stated by others. We also linked the 5th and 6th pitches easily. Feb 26, 2007
Overall, I agree with Brent Armstrong's comments - particularly about the rock quality, which I think remains somewhat poor throughout the climb. Pretty much every other hold you grab is hollow, and the cruxes seem to come from avoiding certain holds or pulling on them in less-than-ideal ways so as not to rip them off. I did enjoy the exposure and location on this one, but the climbing is a bit generic.

Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go, however be aware that at present one of the hangers is missing from one of the bolts from the belay on the ledge(below roof). The bolt itself is still sticking out of the rock - bring a stopper.

On the roof pitch, skip the first set of anchors - there is another belay just above. Apr 10, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
I found this climb to be quite enjoyable, with lots of fun face climbing. However, I agree with some of the other posters that there is a fair bit of not-well-attached rock on the climb. (I broke off a hold, and I'm not super large.)

In my opinion the climb is no harder than 10a.

We took some gear on the climb and used none of it: I would suggest climbing with 12 quickdraws & anchor material if you are comfortable with the occasional runout on 7-8 moves. The 9-10a moves are well protected with lots of bolts.

We chose to do the Ginger cracks descent down and left from the summit block as Drederek described - this requires fewer rappels on a cleaner face, which we thought would lessen the chance of getting the ropes stuck while rappeling. This worked well. Apr 25, 2007
Hey guys,
Sounds like a really sweet route and am actually planning on climbing it this December. A recent poster said that one of the hangers is missing from one of the bolts on the ledge. Does anyone know if it has been replaced? Also, has anyone made the descent with a single 70m rope. Thanks! Dec 2, 2007
Pete Bresciani
Pete Bresciani  
The Cat and I climbed this route today, April 12, 2008. We had a great time. The rock quality wasn't as horrible as we were anticipating and the weather was perfect. It's too bad the initial poster for this used Roxanne's guidebook as a reference because the description is poor. Here is what we found:

Pitch 1: Chimney tree and wall to first bolt. I guess the idea is to sling some branches on the way up. :-) After 120' there is a bolted station at a stance just above two very close bolts. Although I didn't take gear on this pitch, an orange Metolius TCU would have been nice. 120 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 2: Follow bolts, passing one belay station to a HUGE ledge below a roof. No gear needed. 160 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 3: Climb out the roof on big jugs and continue to the next anchor. I did use a red Metolius TCU on this pitch. 120 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 4: Follow 12 bolts to an anchor. No gear needed. 80 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 5: Follow 6 more bolts to an anchor, but pass this and continue to another HUGE ledge with two bolts and rap slings. The first half of this pitch is 5.10a, but then it backs way off. The second half climbing is easy (5.8 then 5.6 and easier), but you might want gear since the bolts end at that first anchor. Not exactly sure of the length, but it was definitely more than 80' as stated in the guidebooks. It felt more like 110' or 120'.

Pitch 6: This looks like a lichen covered mess but turns out to be very fun climbing on bomber rock to the top of the pillar (amazing view) following lot's more bolts. You may be able to find some gear at one slightly runout place, but the climbing is easy and the rock is bullet proof compared with the rest of the climb so you probably won't think twice about any small runout. 160', 5.8.

From the top, make a tiny (8') rap west from 2 widely spaced bolts with slings, to the next ledge where you'll see slings around a wedged block (Ginger Cracks descent). From here make another rap (we used a single 70 meter) into the bowl. Scramble down to the lip of the bowl where you'll find rappel bolts to rappel Power Failure with two ropes (3 raps or we did two since one of our ropes was a 70 meter. This descent is fast and ropes are not prone to catch on the face.

Another note: If you are going to combine pitches 4 and 5 of this description, you'll need 24 quickdraws! 20 for protection and 2 at each belay. Plan accordingly. On the day we did this climb, there were no missing hangers at any belay.

We are both tall and felt no move was harder than 5.10a although if you combine those upper pitches you'll have the weight of 2 full ropes dragging you down and this might make things feel harder than they are. We had a great time. Apr 12, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
The climbing is enjoyable enough, but the hardware could use some work. Spinners, extra belays, and a missing hanger/nut on a stud you could remove by hand at the belay below the roof. Brock topo lengths are way off, as usual. P3 is confusing when you reach two closely spaced bolts (a foot apart) near the end of the pitch which are not the belay that is actually 10' or so higher and just out of sight over a bulge.

We placed maybe two pieces of gear, and one of those was for the first move out of the tree about 2' below the first bolt. Next time I'd just take a single finger sized cam and draws. While you can rap the route with two ropes (we did) the first pull is jacked, probably better to use the Ginger Cracks descent. Crux? Who knows, my partner and I both thought it was different spots, neither of which were the supposed cruxes. Very soft for 10d, even for Red Rock. Nov 25, 2008
My girlfriend and I were in Red Rocks a few weeks ago. I was up Unimpeachable a few years ago (with two 60m ropes for the descent). We only had one 70m with us this time, and saw in the guide book that two 60s would be required. But based on the ~120ft pitch lengths and the few intermediate anchors I remembered since last time, we figured we'd try it anyway. In case we'd run short on rope on any pitch, we were planning to downclimb that pitch and go home.
It turns out already the first pitch went ~15ft beyond the middle marker of our 70m. With rope stretch, and a rappel taking the direct route down, the rope was enough to get down from the first set of anchors though without resorting to any acrobatics :-).
I wanted to post this info here as an answer to the question above about one 70m being enough for the route. I don't know for sure if that'll work with pitch #2 or later. But if you intend to give it a try, I would recommend ensuring your leader is comfortable downclimbing if that would turn out to be necessary. Apr 12, 2009
My house
Sumbit   My house
This is a cool route for a sport climber wanting to do multi pitch. While it was fun I can't think of any part of the climb that made anyone in our group say wow.

I do hope to see more long sport routes like this.

It is long and sustained. Don't fall for the sandbagger comments. If you plan on leading every pitch you should be tapping 11's on single pitch sport routes, and your second should be a solid 10 climber. There is no real crux pitch just continuous mid 10 climbing with hanging belays. The third (2nd) pitch ledge is huge and both hangers were there.

Do link pitch 2 and 3, and if you are going to the top don't stop at the first belay on pitch 5, we did and found the anchor on the ledge later, it would have been nice. Linking 4 and 5 would be a good idea but you do need 24 draws, we didn't. The climbing is easier here but steeper. The final pitch is unlike any of the others, easier but slabby if you have any energy left here you may want to place a nut or two, or just run it out, the rock is solid.

I placed one piece of gear on the first pitch i think it was a BD .5. It was on easy ground but the rock was suspect. We had one HUGE hold hold break off on the fifth pitch. Given a few more years this route may live up to the 10d or 10plus rating as more holds break.

Oak Creek parking looks much closer. I don't know for sure we didn't park there. Nov 26, 2009
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
Did the first 3 pitches of this route on 2/1/2010. I think we were the first people to do it since the big storm and we were postholing a bit through the snow on the approach. We had hoped to get an early start and do most of it while in the sun, but a hot craps table the night before foiled our plan. The sun disappeared during the first pitch, and at the top of the second it was more like unimpeachable shivering and so we bailed. I thought the climbing was excellent and sustained. No single move harder than 5.9 or 5.9+ but it just doesn't let up.

I wanted to add some rappel beta: We didn't want to bring another rope, because it looked like a 70m would get you down without too many shenanagins. For the first three pitches we found 1) the first pitch can be rappelled with a 70m, with about 1 foot to spare, which puts it right around 120 feet. 2) The second pitch would not make it with a 70m. We did a single rope rappel and biased the middle marker about 10 ft down, and then attached 10 extended slings for a pull cord. Thus I would guess this pitch is about 125-135 ft. 3) about the third pitch: there are no rap anchors, and one of the 2 bolts looks like you could pull it out with your hand (I tried and all I could do is wiggle it around) so we ended up leaving an old locker and rapping off the single bolt, which was bomber.

I brought a single set blue through red aliens and we used 1 on each pitch.

the holds did seem a little hollow, but nothing more than usual sandstone in my experience. we didn't pull anything off.

have fun! Feb 2, 2010
just climbed first 3 (2) pitches of UG. there is a missing hanger at the top of pitch 3. and the other bolt next to it is loose.

very enjoyable climbing despite the hollow rock and flexing flakes.

ran out of time and couldn't finish because i'm scared of the dark. can't wait to go back. Sep 24, 2010
Ryan s Nelson
Salt Lake City, Ut
Ryan s Nelson   Salt Lake City, Ut
Great route for intro to sustained multi pitch, The roof was very fun and the hardest pitch seemed to be the move that lead to the first set of anchors, this climb was very consistent and sustained, there was no actual point at which the climb held characteristics of a 10b, but the continual sustained face makes the grade. The best thing about the climb to me was the exposure. Mar 4, 2011
vanishing spy
vanishing spy  
70m rappel beta: Don't do it.
We rapped off a carabiner atop the tower, as there are no rap rings at this 2 bolt anchor. You can not rap the 2nd pitch with a 70m rope. It'd be a stretch to get to the 1st bolt on that pitch. We had to leave a locker and rap off a single bolt. The rope can get stuck on the featured rock and I think we were lucky overall and planned this rappel ahead of time. I'm glad we did not top out the route. I think it would have been a grave error.

We did not need any trad gear though we brought a light rack. There is a run out at the top (5.4) terrain leading to the final pitch. The bolts are close enough and right where you need them the rest of the route. We linked the 2nd/3rd pitch easily and the 4th/5th. The most difficult climbing was getting on to the 1st belay or possibly somewhere in the 2nd pitch. The opening moves would be quite hard if you didn't have the tree to back step.

Though some holds feel thin and hollow they are all solid, even the one someone marked with an X. May 2, 2011
Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
Climbed this route again, 8 years after the first time. We thought the p1 & 2 were harder than we remembered and the rest easier. We also rapped it with a seventy meter rope without leaving any gear or any shenanigans. P 2 used all of the rope for sure but we both clipped the anchors from above the knot. We didn't try to rap past the p4 (roof pitch) anchor to the intermediate set but this may have allowed us to skip the huge ledge on the way down and do the whole thing in 5 raps from the p6 anchors. Sounds like VS' rope is a bit less than 70m or ours is a bit longer. Either way we wouldn't have tried it without some bail gear. Didn't score the locker they left either darnit! May 6, 2011
Daniel Winder
Daniel Winder  
Topped out just as it got dark. One double rope rap put us comfortably in the bowl and three more double raps down power failure to the ground. Bring 2 ropes! The power failure raps are down a smooth face with little risk of hangups. The route itself is exposed and vertical for its entire length, very cool. Oct 17, 2011
Blake M
Blake M  
Did this route on 12/17/2011, its an excellent route with some great climbing on it and would recommend it.

Firstly on the gear we took a single set of nuts and did not place any. There were a couple 25ish? foot run outs however I felt that they were no harder than 5.8, far easier than the rest of the route.

I felt that the first and the fourth (the roof) pitch were the hardest parts.

If I was to do it again I would bring a few extra draws and link the 2nd and 3rd pitches. The third pitch is only three bolts and could be easily linked.

The anchor at the ledge (top of 3rd pitch)is missing a bolt but someone has made a makeshift anchor with the bolt above and some cordage.

Also after pulling the roof you will clip a few bolts and come to another anchor, keep going, the 4th pitch anchor is further up. I am guessing that this is a rap anchor so you don't have to swing into the ledge when rapping the route.

The last pitches were straight forward. The top of the 7th pitch has two bolts for a anchor. We rapped from this anchor down into the the bowl above Power Failure and scrambled down to its anchor. The anchor was easy to find, its pretty much located at the lowest point in the bowl; but a little sketchy to get to as there is a lot of loose dirt and rock right up to the the rounded cliff edge. Once you find the Power Failure anchor the rest of the decent is pretty straight forward, just 3 double rope raps down to terra firma.

Finally there are a lot of loose nuts on this route someone should take a wrench up and do a little tightening Dec 19, 2011
fwiw, the first pitch has been done (at least once) without the tree. Bill Lyons and I did shortly after Jorge & Mike finished it. We got some basic approach beta from Jorge and went looking for it. When we found the route I was surprised to see how high that first bolt was, but figured that it must be easy to that point as climbing the tree would eventually kill it...so we tried to start from the right of the tree, but that seemed awfully hard, so we tried the left side, which got us to the first bolt, which I was immensely relieved to clip. I saw Jorge & Mike at Mike's Thanksgiving party a month later and they had a great laugh when I relayed our outing. Aug 20, 2012
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
Been wanting to get on this since Chris Burton told me about it a decade ago. While I thought there were more pumpy pitches, I found the pitch 2-3 combo to be the crux. Its a long pitch climbed this way and there are a lot of delicate and balancy moves that were far less obvious than the steeper pitches. I could see the roof on pitch four being really tough for shorter folks - and at 6' I found it to be dynamic. I broke a foothold on pitch two and there is a lot of loose stuff on that pitch especially. At times you look up a line of good holds just outside of the bolt line only to realize that there are 6' sections of wall that are hollow and ring like a gong.

I know this is a sport climb, but this is climb is still a big day. Its a good hike in and out with close to 1000' of steep elevation gain/loss with roughly 850' of technical climbing. Oct 1, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
If you are tall and have a long reach, this fun climb feels significantly easier (10b I'd say, at 6'1" with a +5 ape index). There are a ton of spinners. The final ramp to the summit felt a bit harder than 5.8 in my opinion. Also, make sure to not knock any rocks when heading down the gully if you rap the water streak, as they bounce down and then go sailing over the edge. Wouldn't be pleasant for people on Power Failure or rapping. Oct 28, 2012
Pitty   Marbach
No need to climb the tree, you can go strait for the bolt on the wall, maybe 5.10c but fits perfect to the route and is kind of more clean :-)
We had only runners with us, did not miss any gear. Nov 17, 2012
I'd like to echo sentiments mentioned here and in the comments for Power Failure and Ginger Cracks.

If you're going to rap the water streak through Power failure, be warned that there is so much loose rock above just waiting to be freed and sent over the edge. I won't be going anywhere near Power Failure until I know conditions have changed.

I climbed Ginger Cracks on November 24th, 2012, and feel that it is nearly impossible NOT to send rocks down that chute and over the edge.

Good luck.

Nov 28, 2012
Zachary W
San Francisco, California
Zachary W   San Francisco, California
Really no need to use the tree at the start. Both of us freed it with little trouble, and the first bolt isn't that high off the ground. If you can do the moves on the rest of the route, you can do that start. Feb 6, 2013
When (if ever) is Groping in the shade? And is it feasible to rap with a single rope? The consensus from the comments seems to be that double ropes are better/easier, but would it be possible to do it with one? Thanks! Mar 23, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Topped out the route this past Saturday April 13 and rapped Power Failure anchors with two 60m ropes. Be very careful rapping down cause there is A LOT of loose rock up there above power failure.

rack only consisted of draws, no gear was placed. Apr 17, 2013
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Edit: As of 3/30/19, the ledge anchor is now two solid bolts and rings. The crux bolt on the first pitch has also been updated.

70m beta (from comments further down)-
Bring 24 draws and a couple off-finger cams and you can:
Link 2 & 3 to ledge.
Skip the first anchor after ledge.
Go to the top of the east face from there (base of 5.8 pitch).

Rappel Power Failure’s water streak in 4 rappels. (Two raps needed to get to the top of power failure from the summit).

also, keep your helmets on while in the gully at the base of the climb. some knuckleheads cut loose a bunch of rock off the top of power failure and it shot down the route and bounced down the gully. got winged by some shrapnel while sitting near the base of the climb packing up. Apr 19, 2013
rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
hey john im planning on climbing this tuesday ill bring a bolt hanger and a wrench anything else i should bring that you know of? Sep 29, 2013
chris morgan
las vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
chris morgan   las vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
This route is a blast. Great belay spots after the first pitch. Link some pitches together though(P2/3, P5/6). No trad gear needed but def need two ropes for a good rappel at the end. No where close to a 10d though. The tree in the beginning is not needed and the route is still a 5.10a/b. The hardest part of this climb was staying on trail while hiking to it. Last pitch is more 5.7. I am 5'10" so that may have something to do with my opinion. Oct 30, 2013
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
Highly recommend linking pitches 2 and 3 to skip the hanging belay and go straight to the good ledge. All the hanging belays on this one can get tiresome.

This climb is super sustained and if single-pitch sport is what you are used to, I agree with a previous poster that you should be solid on 11's to tackle this one. While no moves are significant cruxes (besides P4 roof), the pitches are very long, steep, and don't let up which I think earns the grade. I agree that the first two pitches were just as hard as the final pitches, and all run together is probably 5.10b/c. Nov 13, 2013
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
Great route! Highly recommend doing this if you're solid at the grade, as it's pretty sustained.

Climbed it without the tree and didn't find those moves harder than other stuff on the route. Also didn't use any gear and didn't feel I would have even if I had some as the short run-outs were on easier ground as others have said.

As a climber from the northeast with a good deal of Gunks experience, I'd say the roof is no 10+. It's easier than Modern Times. ;) Feels like a 9 or 10a to me...but it's really fun nonetheless!

Do yourself a favor and bring a few extra draws to run P2-P3 together so you can skip a hanging belay. The end of P3 is on a big ledge. Nov 18, 2013
Nick T
Nick T  
Did the first 5 pitches today before we ran out of heat and light.

We didn't notice many spinners, but we found that one of the bolts at the pitch 3 anchor no longer exists (i.e. both the hanger and bolt are gone, leaving just a role in the wall). We backed up the single bolt with a #7 Black Diamond Stopper in the (very) shallow horizontal crack above the location of the missing bolt. I wouldn't trust that placement with my life, but it made for an ok backup in a pinch. Nov 20, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
I would have given this route more stars except I hate hanging belays! The bolting doesn't even make sense at the anchor spots. On two of the hanging belays, there was a reasonable (more reasonable at any rate) spot just next to the hanging belay that would have been much more comfortable. I know, I know, suck it up right?

The anchor at the top of pitch 3 is still missing a bolt.

Bring 20 draws and link pitches 2 and 3. Really. Nov 22, 2013
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Such a classic! A couple updates and tips:

- I know the Handren guide advises the Pine Creek approach, which we took. But the Juniper Creek parking lot looks a lot closer with fewer creek beds and climbs.

- The route faces east/northeast. The sun was off the route by noon (Feb.) so layer accordingly.

- in the description it says "Find the only big tree in sight". Well there's more than one big tree. See Matt McMurray's cautionary comment. Keep looking over your right shoulder for the pine with a big chockstone wedged between it and the wall. For those that climbed the route without the tree - rename it and claim a new FA (kidding - we used the tree).

- some belays are in odd places. We linked 2 and 3 (take some long runners). We skipped a few bolts on easy ground. 20 draws (six or so double length) seemed adequate.

- there is a rap station just over the roof on P4. DON'T BELAY HERE. Go another 40' to a better (not great) stance. Near the top of P6 there is another sucker belay. Go another 40-50' to a great ledge with anchors.

- if you're used to steep areas, the roof is not difficult.

- we did not find any missing hangers at belays. A few empty studs on the route, but nothing detrimental. Perhaps someone was just fixing bad bolts or repositioning clips.

- two 70m ropes would get you down the Ginger Cracks/Power Failure descent in two raps. Be very cautious if there are parties coming down behind you - the Ginger Cracks descent gully to the Power Failure rap station is full of loose death missiles.

- for pro we took a set of offset wires and placed two on easy ground. Yup, it's a sport route. A few spinners? Yeah, so what.

- as to comments about rock quality, yes there are a few hollow sounding spots. But IMO, that's the fun of route finding in RR. Don't be put off. For a ~750 foot route, the average stone quality is great. Feb 10, 2014
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
An awesome route, one of the best I did on my trip to Red Rocks. The roof pull above the massive ledge above pitch three is stellar and the entire climb is awesome. Lots of mini jugs and flakes. There are looser flakes that will pull eventually but it adds some fun adventures elements to the climb. Park at the end of the dirt road in front of Rainbow Mountain for sure, less hiking through washes and stuff. As far as gear goes, bring like 4 nuts to protect a couple minor run outs on easier terrain. If your comfortable on 10 sport then you really don't need them at all. The ledge at the base of pitch 4 is enormous and a good place to eat lunch and enjoy the view. Super fun and a must do! Mar 16, 2014
Just climbed the route, here are some tips:

- Link Pitch 2&3 to avoid a hanging belay
- Right after the roof on pitch 4 are rap anchors - don´t belay from there. Keep going.
- Bring about 20 QDs
- We didn´t use any extra pro. Only QDs. It is only "runout" on 5.6/7 terrain. If you are conservative, bring a set of stoppers.
- Do the last pitch (5.8). Absolutely worth it, great top-out.
- Don´t rappell the route. Rather rappell the route to the left of it (power failure) with two ropes Apr 2, 2014
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
I'll agree with many of the aforementioned comments here, but will try to add a few new ones and emphasize the existing ones we found to be most important:

- Overall, this *is* a great climb, but if you're into "max climbing"/"minimum hassle", long/steep approach terrain + rope hauling requirements + somewhat gnarly initial rap route from the top of the pillar might suggest choosing a different climb.

- On the final portion of the approach, the Handren book suggested "going left around the base of the ramp". In actuality, once we saw the striped-rock ramp at the end of the cairned approach path, it seemed rather straightforward to just ascend the ramp directly to the route base. You'll see Crimson Chrysalis on your right as you ascend the ramp, and near the end of the ramp you'll make one low-5th class move just before you reach the route base.

- None of the pitch length figures I read seemed to quite match reality, but if you go strictly by the obvious bolted anchors (other than the single-bolt anchor you can back up on the huge ledge at the top of P3), the route to the top of the entire pillar goes in 8 pitches. I'll thus refer to the pitches using this convention.

- In terms of breaking up the pitches, I'd definitely recommend linking P2/3, P4/5 and P6/7 if you like long, sustained climbing and want to move a bit quicker. Be sure to bring 20 draws to do this though, including a couple alpine draws to reduce drag (which in general is good for the longer pitches, as the bolts wander enough to create drag if you don't sling any of them).

- P3 will end in an enormous ledge - bring an orange metolius to back up the single anchor bolt.

- Climbing from the P3 ledge to the P4 anchor is really short - definitely keep climbing to the P5 anchor.

- If you link P6/7 and have a 70m rope, you can avoid a hanging belay by bypassing the P7 anchor and climbing an extra ~10 feet to a nice ledge. Here you'll need a few small/medium cams for the belay, but it's worth it to avoid the hanging situation.

- From the top of P7, you can take it all the way to the top in one pitch.

- I'd recommend the trailing the second rope you'll need for rapping. We'd been in the habit of having the follower carry the second rope in a backpack on lower-angle, less-sustained climbs, but it wasn't a good technique for this climb due to the weight of the backpack for the follower with sustained, steep climbing.

- We topped out on the climb vs. rapping from the top of P7. While I could see the benefits of rapping from the top of P7 if nobody else was on the climb, the final P8 to the top is a sweet pitch and well worth doing.

- If rapping from the top of P8/top of the pillar, I'd recommend:
1) As you top out, look to your ~2 o'clock position for a rap anchor. Do a double-rope rappel over your ~12 o'clock position from this anchor to a relatively chossy base area. We made the mistake of doing a short rap to the ~2 o'clock position to a second multi-sling rap anchor under a chockstone, which was unnecessary and had a rope-eating slot on its line. Chuck your ropes well on your double-rope ~12 o'clock angled rap, as this line is low-angle and thus rope-snagging.

2) After the initial double-rope rap, clean your ropes up well and *carefully* walk down the choss to the top of the main Ginger Buttress wall. Words cannot explain how chossy this part is, so extreme care is imperative to avoid kicking huge rocks down the buttress. You'll eventually spot the next set of rap rings here.

3) From this point, start a double-rope rap down the main face. While rapping here, carefully look to your right to spot the final rap station (it's easy to pass if you start heading straight down on the rap).

4) From the last rap station, a double-70m-rope rap will get both climbers all the way to the ground. If you have a 70m and a 60m, you'll come up a bit short and will need to do some 5th-class downclimbing. If you simul-rap, the climber on the 70m strand can reach the base, leaving the need for only one climber to do the downclimbing (or adjust the rap strand lengths after the first climber reaches the ground, allowing the second rapping climber to reach ground with a final two-strand rap). Apr 13, 2014
G Lucas
G Lucas  
I just climbed this and the ledge only has a single bolt hanger there, no rap rings as if set up as an anchor, but rather a continuous pitch. My guess is that the way to climb it now is that P3/P4 (as described) are supposed to be linked together and belay at the anchors 30-40' over the roof. Bring some gear to back up that single bolt if you plan on using it as an anchor (slinging a large rock worked for us as we didn't bring any gear along), but probably better to just keep going through the roof. Dec 31, 2014
The pitches have changed over time, my take with a 70m:

-P1 to the chains.
-P2 past the chains to the ledge.
-P3 through the roof past two anchors to a third anchor.
-P4 short pitch to final chains then rap or go up 5.8 pitch. Feb 13, 2015
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
This is a great climb. Super fun and well protected. My gf and I climbed it in early Feb and the face was in the shade by around noon. Made for a slightly more chilly day than we expected. We did not bring anything besides 15 draws and were totally happy with our choice. Pitch 1 is the only place you could possibly want nuts, but the small runout is on easier terrain. There is nothing harder than 10b anywhere on the climb, so don't be intimidated by the 10+ rating. Feb 17, 2015
Chris Morgan 1
Las Vegas, Nevada
Chris Morgan 1   Las Vegas, Nevada
Stop using the tree in the beginning. It is not needed and the climb is still a 5.10b. The tree will only grow taller and you will be cheating more Mar 16, 2015
Trad Princess
Not That Into Climbing
Trad Princess   Not That Into Climbing
Better manpris than a manbra, eh?

MMMMMMM GRAVY!!!! Mar 16, 2015
Nicholas King 1
Grand Junction, Colorado
Nicholas King 1   Grand Junction, Colorado
There is a lot of awesome info on the actual climb. However, can anyone give me beta on rappelling? Or will itbe pretty obvious? Planning on taking 2 70m Mar 20, 2015
Park City, UT
ChrisBrandenburg   Park City, UT
Climbed 3/30/15. Some bolts need some love. couple of spinning nuts, right anchor bolt at the top of pitch 2 especially. Apr 2, 2015
Jeff Oslik
Tucson, AZ
Jeff Oslik   Tucson, AZ
From the Oak Creek Parking Lot, hike in took 1:30 on the way, 1:20 on the way back. For the decent, once you do the initial rap and scramble to the top of Power Failure, another 3 raps are required to reach the ground with a 60 and a 70 (and I would assume two 60s). Just trend right as you decend (your right as you face the wall) to find the rap rings. It may be possible to do it with 2 raps if you have 2 70s, but we wouldn't know.

Our rope got stuck when pulled following the initial rap, as did that of the party after us (who were kind enough to help us with ours). Be very careful where the rope is when rapping to the 12 oclock position (as previously suggested) to prevent it getting stuck on the first ledge when pulled. Rapping to the 2 oclock position might be a better way to go -- just make sure you go all the way down. As stated previously:

- link pitches 2 and 3

- don't use the rap station just over the roof on pitch 4 -- go another 40 ft to a better belay.

- go to the giant ledge at the top of pitch 6 to belay Apr 13, 2015
20 kN

20 kN    
A number of bolts need to be tightened. Nearly all of the bolts are 3/8" wedge bolts with nuts. So if you plan to climb this, try to bring a wrench and tighten up some of the nuts. Apr 26, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
Tightened a few of the nuts on the way up, but there are plenty more that are still spinning.

Link pitches 5 & 6. Each are about 80 feet and it makes a spectacular megapitch (20 or so draws?)

Second the opinion that there is absolutely no need for gear on this climb, other than to build an anchor/ supplement a belay bolt on the HUGE ledge atop P3. Not sure why there is no anchor there anyways... seems totally pointless to have it 40' below the ledge on an uncomfortable hang when you can make it to the ledge comfortably with a 60m from the P2 belay. Never felt runout, not even once.

The rap trends rightwards down Power Failure, so be careful with your rope management to avoid twisting/stuck ropes. DO IT IN THREE RAPPELS. Even though it looks like your double rope will reach ground on the second rap, it's actually hitting about 50' up on a ramp that would be dangerous and scary to downclimb. May 15, 2015
David Bruneau
St. John
David Bruneau   St. John  
I thought the first two pitches were the hardest, I guess that some holds have broken since the FA. Linked 3 and 4 due to no anchor on the ledge, rope drag wasn't bad with a long draw under the roof. The last couple of pitches were the best, really exposed and excellent climbing. Jul 20, 2015
does anyone know if one 80m rope would suffice for the rap down if NOT climbing pitch 7? Nov 2, 2015
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Yep... A 80M works... Nov 2, 2015
Matt Enlow
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
Tradoholic's pitch beta was a good time for us. Makes for an epic third pitch, where I used all 23 of our draws and skipped/backcleaned three or four bolts. Nov 12, 2015
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
I linked the last 2 5.10 pitches as we were running out of daylight... maybe the best 160 feet of sport climbing I have ever done, you will feel like a hero way up on that headwall- skip bolts or bring 20+ draws. Jan 8, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Having not done any other longer multi pitch bolted routes in RR this was a great intro. I thought the first three pitches to be so so with the second pitch being the crux, and then the upper pitches being absolutely stellar. No gear really needed for the route except to make some of the belays a bit less awkward and if so bringing a .4,.5,.75 would be a good idea. Also rapping power failure is the way to go, super easy and much less stuff to get your rope caught on! Jan 16, 2016
Thomas Gilmore
Golden, CO
Thomas Gilmore   Golden, CO
This route is a good candidate for a re-bolting. Over half the bolts are spinners and one anchor is dangerously close to pulling out all together. All the belays except the big ledge are hanging and uncomfortable especially in a party of three. There are two extra anchor setups making the pitches confusing/unnecessarily short if you don't know which ones to hit. Extra gear isn't mandatory but can be nice. Bring two ropes, 10 draws/6 alpine, .75 camalot, yellow and green alien, and a medium/large brass offset.
Yellow alien protects runout to first bolt. .75 Camalot protects easy runout on second pitch. Skip second anchor and go for the big ledge. Make anchor using single bolt and yellow and green alien (blue will also work). Skip first anchor after roof and head for second anchor just a little further. This should set you up to skip the sketchy ass anchor. If you do end up at the sketchy ass anchor, it can be backed up with a medium/large brass offset or potentially a yellow DMM offset. You can link pitches from the second to last anchor on the face to the end of the 5.8 pitch with a 70M rope but you will probably have to skip bolts on the 5.8 pitch and it is a rope stretcherrr. If you top out, rap power failure. If you rap from the top out straight down to the big ledge you will probably get your rope stuck. There is an intermediate rap 15-20' down behind the top out...look for the tat. We rapped from the top and got out ropes stuck. You can free-solo up to get them unstuck but it is probably 5.5 climbing and you definitely wouldn't want to be doing it in the dark. Rapping from the tat may set you up to not get your ropes stuck. From the big ledge rap down climbers right of the water streak down power failure. We got down in 2 raps with double 70's. You may have to do 3 with double 60's. Mar 24, 2016
Evan Hopley
Evan Hopley  
Climbed in March. I completely agree with everything Thomas said except I didn't try his link ups to avoid the sketchyness(I wish I had). I think at the top of the fourth pitch I was able to screw one bolt with just my hand and the other bolt was sticking out a quarter inch and the hanger was just loosely hanging there(sketchballs). The gear I brought was a red C3 .3 .4 and .5 C4 and a red, orange, and yellow metolius TCU and a set of stoppers. I only ended up using the red C3 and I placed one nut. Absolutely follow the beta for rapping off the tat(Again I wish I had known that) rope got stuck. Also if you're rope gunning up someone who's inexperienced the last pitch is stellar but has a little run out bolts for those who are newer leaders. Also be aware all hanging belays except for the last pitch. Apr 27, 2016
Ed Keller
Ed Keller  
Climbed on Oct 7 2016 with Craig Berman.

Great climb, moderate, fabulous position and views. About 90 mins to hike in- we took it slow as I'm not not great hiking shape.
We felt the route was in the easy 5.10 range. Pitch one crux was just before the anchors and in the 10a range, with some slightly cruxy passages lower. We linked P2 and P3 for a longish single pitch to the large ledge at 10a/b. The pitch through the roof was in the 5.9+/5.10a range. The roof was very easy compared to Gunks roof cruxes and would be in the 5.8+ range in the Gunks [as per other peoples' comments]. We thought the 4th pitch [80'] was the 10b crux. The anchor we used at the top of our 4th pitch was definitely sketchy [as another climber points out in the thread above]- one bolt seemed solid, the other was about 1/4" out of the rock. I was not happy at that anchor. The 5th pitch for us [80'] was around 5.8+; it was steeper and more intimidating but the climbing was no harder than 5.8+/5.9; we rapped from the double rap anchors just before the large ledge, instead of climbing one more bolt and 20' to the ledge. If one has a 60m+, these last two 80' pitches should be easy to combine into a 170' 5.10b pitch, with steeper jug pulling on easy terrain in the second half of the pitch.

Notes on the gear and rap:
We brought about 24 draws and also a rack of small to medium stoppers and camalots from finger size to 1 1/2 inches [even though the recommendation was to bring only a couple of finger size units]. We actually did end up placing pieces on p1 and p3. There were runouts on easier terrain but slightly suspect rock which we appreciated the gear on. A strong trad leader confortable climbing at 5.10+/5.11 would probably not have slowed down to place that gear, but we were happy to have it.
The rock did improve as one gets higher, but even on the first pitch [which has some hollow flakes] it was pretty good. Just watch out for the flakes and the great boomy sounds they can produce. The 'quality' of the rock never impacted our sense of the quality of the climb- just added a tiny bit of caution to movement.

All the belay/rap stations were ok, except the one we belayed from at the top of the 4th, with one very suspect bolt. However, as we had only one 80m to rap, we would have had to use that anchor regardless. Parties climbing with double 60s might consider linking what we did as two pitches- p4/p5- together in one longer 5.10b and then rapping to avoid the sketchy anchor.
On the upside, The bolts at the ledge belay just below the roof had cord on them already linking the first bolt on that pitch, which was convenient.

We rapped the route using a single 80m and it was fine. I would NOT recommend a single 70m. 80m on one of our raps- to the top of the first pitch, IIRC, was close using an 80. KNOT YOUR ENDS!

Cheers- Oct 11, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
Good candidate for a rebolt. Many of the bolts are a little spooky. Nov 28, 2016
Natalie Nicole
San Francisco, CA
Natalie Nicole   San Francisco, CA
Great moderate multi-pitch sport climb.

Here are some things I wish I knew before doing the route (all the referenced pitch #'s below are the same as the ones in the MP description and the Jerry Handren book):

-In my opinion, the most efficient way to link the pitches with a 70m is to do P1, P2+P3, P4+P5, P6+P7. The pitch lengths are a bit shorter than reported in the Handren book, as evidenced as my group's ability to rap from the top of pitch 6 to the ledge with 2 70's with rope to spare, which shouldn't have been possible.

-ALL the belays are hanging belays, except the ledge, which is the reason why it would be good to set up one of the belays at the end of P3 for some relief. This is especially true for a 3-person party, which we were.

-GEAR: I only used one piece (BD #2) on Pitch 1 on this somewhat runout spot between bolts, but the climbing there is easy if one does not want to bring gear or feels very comfortable on that grade.
Given my above recommended pitch link-ups, I would agree with the other commenters in that one should bring extra draws. We brought 19 and felt like a few more might've made things easier. Also I would bring some alpine draws to reduce rope drag, especially over the roof.

-I think the ease of the roof is height dependent. The roof felt a bit committing for me (5.11 climber, Height: 5'2) on lead, but my follower (5.10 climber, Height: 6'5) had no issue.

-My partners both felt that some of the rock on Pitch 6 was chossy. One partner pulled off a good sized rock (it was several days after any precipitation so it's not weather related).

-The ledge is missing a proper rap station. There is a missing bolt, and instead, old tat (that was significantly worn after close inspection) was used to connect the first two bolts of Pitch 3 with a quicklink. My partners decided to replace the tat with new cordalette off of two lockers. But if someone could replace the missing bolt and put some rap rings to set up a proper rap station, it would be a more permanent solution given the winter inclement weather and its wear on cord.

-We didn't make it past Pitch 6 because it was already dark and my partners wanted to go down. We managed to get down in 3 raps with 2 70m ropes: P6-P3, P3-P2, P1; our ropes almost got stuck on the first rap so I'm not sure if I would recommend this rap combination. One can rap from the top of any pitch (though note the previous point about Pitch 3's lack of a proper rap station).

-Lastly, I agree with an above commenter that the follower(s) should be at least a solid 5.10 climber, with the added factor that s/he should have enough fitness to do the hike in (took us 1.5 hours) without it affecting their climbing ability to the point wherein they would struggle on 5.10.

Enjoy the climb, it's a ton of fun! Dec 31, 2016
Chris G.
Chris G.   Lakewood
Many loose spinning bolts Feb 18, 2017
Jeff Witt
Jeff Witt  
Bolts are in great shape and some improvements/replacements have been made. Bumping it up to classic status, for excellent climbing and great position. Excellent route! Apr 9, 2017
Daniel Melnyk
Daniel Melnyk   Covina

Super amazing route but get there early. Out of about 15 people, only my partner and I were able to top out because of some slow parties.

No gear needed but can be nice. I brought a DB C4 .5 and .75. Only placed the .75 twice (pitch 1 and above the roof). All bolts were in good condition. The anchor below the roof has 2 bolts now.

Do the last pitch. totally worth it. Also the more alpine draws the better. Apr 17, 2017
Where's Walden
Where's Walden  
Rap from the top of pitch 6 with a single 70. Rapping pitch 2 was TIGHT but we made it. May 11, 2017
Alice Chiang
Cambridge, MA
Alice Chiang   Cambridge, MA
Didn't get to finish this route because we were held up by several parties of 3 that were trying to learn multi pitch on this route. Please be cognizant that this route has several hanging belays, so a party of 3 is probably going to slow and uncomfortable. If you don't have multipitch experience but want to do a multpitch bolted route; I'd highly recommend tackling something shorter first so you can practice rope management and transitions on a less popular climb.

ALSO - If you don't top out it to rappel down nearby routes you would need to rappel the actual route. Since this is an extremely popular route, it's worth planning for. At one point we had about 5-6 people hanging off an anchor (myself and my parter and a party of 3 that decided to rappel down the entire route).

My partner and I were able to do the first 4 pitches. P1 was surprisingly harder than expected, and P2 and P3 felt pretty sustained as well. The P4 roof felt surprisingly easy (didn't feel like an upper 5.10, closer to maybe a 5.10a move). We had to bail after the 4th pitch due to time. I agree that the face climbing felt more like a upper 5.10 with some reachy moves (I'm 5'-1") May 25, 2017
Climbed this on 3/28/2018. Lead every pitch. I don't think anything is harder than 10c. 10d, seemed generous. The roof has nice holds and if you study it before climbing it, there are many ways to solve that little puzzle. Protect it with extended alpine draws

I agree with another poster here than an additional bolt at the beginning of the route would be nice. You're really high in the tree (may be 30 feet) before you get near the first bolt to clip.

Regarding bringing traditional gear, it's optional. I left a set of nuts in my pack at the base and didn't miss them. I brought a light rack of cams and only placed one .75 bd on the first pitch. The rest of it climbs safely without it. Maybe bring a .75 and #1.

Another poster said there was a bolt every body length. Maybe this is true on average but you'll be disappointed if you expect that to be true everywhere. It is well bolted though, especially in the tricky sections.

We used the ginger cracks descent, via power failure route. Worked out nicely. First rap off the summit we did was with a single rope off the summit block back kind of toward the tower of rock that is just out of reach, aiming for the back end of the bowl. Next rap was off a slung block and was a double rappel. We saw another party rap more directly toward the bowl from the top of the route and made it to where we were after our second rappel but they did it in one rap instead of two. Power failure raps require three double length raps. The second rap won't reach the true gully, but rather a ledge prior to the gully. Enjoy! Mar 29, 2018
Here is a link to a video I made of my accent of Unimpeachable-groping hope you enjoy :)
youtube.com/watch?v=l_pbUtB… Apr 3, 2018
Lianna H  
Climbed this route on 10/27/18. My comments (most have already been said):
-Link pitches 2-3
-Link pitches 5-6
-Everything is hanging belay besides pitch 3 ledge
-Most bolts are in good shape, few spinners
-I brought up 4 pieces of smaller pro. I was happy to place it on the run out areas. They are easy and I can understand why many people do not use it. These pieces saved our butts later on the rap when the rope got stuck.
-Rapped off the top of the buttress via power failure. We threw our rope off the 12 o'clock position. We both rapped and upon pulling the rope, it go stuck (despite serious attempts to flick for 20 minutes). We used the 4 pieces of pro to climb just left (climbers left) of the rap on easier terrain. There was a boulder with cord around it that we ended up rapping off of after cleaning the gear. Based on the comments, we used double rope raps on THREE more raps after the first one (4 total). I am not sure if the double rope was necessary on all three, but it was dark, so we decided to play it safe. We stayed RIGHT during each rap.
-SUPER fun climbing Oct 30, 2018
Seems like an anchor has been added 20 feet left of Power Failure. Now you can rap down with a single 70m rope. Hopefully this will speed people's climbing up on this route, and assist/encourage more parties to send the whole route (as opposed to being part of the cluster and slowing other parties). Nov 15, 2018
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Great route! Bring plenty of draws (>20) to link pitches. Note that the seventh pitch begins at a ledge past a rap anchor for the sixth.
There's a 5.8 slab that goes off the left. Two 60s are needed to rap down Power Failure. We did a short little rap from the very top off two bolts and then a 30 m rap off a chockstone to get down to the bowl. 3 double rope raps take you to the ground. There are some pretty loose rocks at the top of these raps (on top of Power Failure), so please be mindful of parties below!

And sorry Lilly, I didn't seen any ropes this morning. Nov 23, 2018
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Great route! A bit of rappelling info for those with a long rope - an 80m rope would get you down the route, even off the top pitch I believe, although there would be a difficult rope pull in that direction. Rapping power failure also appeared to work with an 80m rope, although we combined forces with some other people and used double ropes.

I also think I left a pair of 5.10 gambit shoes at the base, so please let me know if anyone comes across those. Nov 27, 2018
Zac Pond
Salt Lake City
Zac Pond   Salt Lake City
Can anyone confirm being able to rap Power Failure with a single 70m? Mar 14, 2019
Tim Heid
Tim Heid   AZ
I think if you're going to use (1) 70m rope, then rap All You Can Eat. I left details in a comment on the Ginger Cracks page that should hopefully help. I don't think you can rap Power Failure with 1 rope, but I've never tried; always taken 1 rope and rapped AYCE. Mar 18, 2019
North Las Vegas
Rprops   North Las Vegas
We rapped the line down the water streak today with a single 70m rope (parallel to Power Failure). 2 raps to the ledge and 1 more to the ground. The last rap needs one ring or link on each bolt added to prevent twisting. Really clean raps. Power Failures top looked really wet, dirty and mossy. Mar 19, 2019
Only climbed up to pitch 5 due to multiple parties ahead of us and lack of daylight, so I cant speak for the upper pitches, but roof move on P4 is maaaaaaaaybe 10a. Id put the whole pitch at 5.9+. I think a bolt should be added to the start. Out if the 8 people i aaw start this route, all of them used the tree to the first bolt. Gets enough traffic to warrant a bolt. Save the tree. Also, its great movement Apr 1, 2019
Only did the first 4 pitches due to daylight constraints. Can rap these with a 70 m rope, but rapping the second pitch BARELY makes it (like 50 cm of rope left). Definitely link pitches 2 and 3. Apr 11, 2019
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
Taylor Krosbakken   Duluth, MN
If you have 18 draws or back clean a little, like Alexander said, definitely link 2 and 3. Pitch 3 is 3 bolts and MAYBE 30 ft. This gets you to a giant party ledge instead of a hanging belay too.

In the middle of P4, maybe 20 ft after the roof is a set of rap anchors. Don't stop here keep going up.

Linking pitch 5 and 6 would work but you would need a shit ton of draws. well over 20?

If you are planning on rapping the route, stop about 20 ft before the shoulder on the right side of the wall, and rap from the rap station there. If planning on summiting, continue to the shoulder to a 2 bolt belay (no rap rings).

I am pretty sure you could rap the route with w/ 70m rope. based on pitch lengths and intermediate anchors.

Last pitch is 5.8 PG-13. No places for pro, all bolts, run out but pretty easy when run out. There are 2 bolts on top of Ginger Buttress with tat equalizing them. We rapped from the top into the bowl to the south.

We then rapped "all you can eat" and you can do this with a single 60 according to the guidebook. also less walking around on all the loose rock down to "power failure". its a very short walk from the first rappel.

The route was super fun and just felt like sustained 5.10- the whole way with very little let up and no real crux, which I thought was really cool. When it did let up its a bit run out and I was glad to have some nuts and a couple cams. Nothing bigger than .75 I don't think. and probably only placed like 4 times or less. Also the roof is well protected and I definitely thought it was not the crux at all, big holds everywhere.

The route faces east and gets sun until maybe 2 or 3pm. last pitch faces north.

The start is weird and the first bolt is kind of high. I climbed the tree and then reached out and placed a cam before committing to rock climbing. 1st bolt is after a move or 2. Could also sling the tree for pro. 7 days ago
Keekee Winslow
Washington, District of Col…
Keekee Winslow   Washington, District of Col…
Hey guys we got the stopper of my brand new bright pink rope stuck behind a flake while repelling... the wind took it around the tower and we weren’t able to get it free. If you are able to free it or find it can you please message me. I will be forever grateful and will owe you a beer 4 days ago · Lost & Found