Avg: 3.4 from 349 votes
Routes in Ginger Buttress
|All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cayenne corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Power Failure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Sugar and Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 760 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mike Clifford and Jorge Urioste 1999|
|Page Views:||61,699 total, 370/month|
|Shared By:||phil broscovak on Mar 9, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionAn absolutely fabulous route destined for "classic" status. Originally done in seven pitches of excellent steep 5.10 face climbing. The route was later continued a few pitches higher by the late Zack Martin. Zack passed on before I could get any information about his extension, so I will only include the first seven pitches in this description. And hope that somebody will fill in the rest.
The route starts halfway between Ginger Cracks and Power Failure. Find the only big tree in sight and scurry up it till you can reach the 1st bolt.
P1: (130' 5.10) After the tree climb up through a right-facing corner and up left past bolts to a 2-bolt belay.
P2: (150' 5.10) Up and left following bolts to a 2-bolt belay.
P3: (40' 5.10) Climb up to the big ledge via crack and face.
P4: (120' 5.10+) Follow bolts through the roof via the right-facing corner then up and right to a 2-bolt belay.
P5: (80' 5.10+) Steep face past bolts to a 2-bolt belay.
P6: (80' 5.10+) Up the steep face to a 2-bolt belay.
P7: (160' 5.10+) Head up and left toward the top of the pillar.
P8,9,10: (???) This route is steep and sustained and can be cleanly rapped from the top of the seventh pitch.