Type: Sport, 760 ft (230 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Clifford and Jorge Urioste 1999
Page Views: 98,421 total · 468/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Mar 9, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

An absolutely fabulous route destined for "classic" status. Originally done in seven pitches of excellent steep 5.10 face climbing. The route was later continued a few pitches higher by the late Zack Martin. Zack passed on before I could get any information about his extension, so I will only include the first seven pitches in this description. And hope that somebody will fill in the rest.

The route starts halfway between Ginger Cracks and Power Failure. Find the only big tree in sight and scurry up it till you can reach the 1st bolt.

P1: (130' 5.10) After the tree climb up through a right-facing corner and up left past 10 bolts to a 4-bolt belay.

P2: (120' 5.10) Up and left following 11 bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P3: (50' 5.10) Climb up to the big ledge via crack and face past 5 bolts. Should be combined with P2 to avoid hanging belay.

P4: (120' 5.10+) Follow bolts through the roof via the right-facing corner, past a rap anchor at 40', then up and right to a 2-bolt belay.

P5: (80' 5.10+) Steep face past bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

P6: (80' 5.10+) Up the steep face to a 2-bolt belay. Stop here if rapping the route, or continue higher to a nice ledge with an anchor.

P7: (150' 5.8) Head up pleasant face climbing to the top.

Rappel straight down into the bowl (new rap anchor near the lip).  Scramble to the bottom of the bowl, stay between the bushes and the wall to get to the water streak rappels. 

4 raps with a single 70m rope.

Protection

15 draws and a small rack of stoppers and cams to 2"

Photos