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Areas in Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

*Lee Vining Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Chicken Foot Cracks 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Dana Plateau 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Demonology Cliff Band 13 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Dinosaur Crag 7 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Ellery Bowl 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 7
Ellery Dam Spillway Crag 5 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Ellery Ridges 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Girls On Fire - Panderer Cliff Area 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lee Vining Ice and Mixed 17 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 36
Mount Dana 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pyramid & Warren Towers 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Queen Jane Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Sphinx, The 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Squealer Slab 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Television Skies Crag 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property) 7 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Transpire Wall 3 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Elevation: 7,223 ft
GPS: 37.94, -119.136 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 103,611 total · 2,076/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jul 13, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This area is situated at the northern end of the Sierra Eastside, and is unique in its nature given that it has some of the most easily accessible sport, trad, bouldering and ice climbing on cliffs that are more often than not empty.

Perhaps climbers are too eager to get to the better known climbs in Tuolumne Meadows, but make no mistake the climbing to be found west from Lee Vining along the Tioga pass is worth a visit or two.

In recent years quality sport routes have been developed on a number of cliffs along the Tioga Pass road in addition to a few bouldering areas along the valley floor.

In the cooler winter months the convenient ice climbing venues are sometimes busier than the cliffs in the summer as climbers take advantage of the easy access and fun 1 and 2 pitch climbs.

The Third Pillar of Mount Dana can be found under the Dana Plateau section.

Getting There

From the US 395 take the CA120 west to reach all the climbing. Al the areas are located in a 10 mille stretch West of the 395/120 junction.

183 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 29
Chouinards' Right
Ice
WI3-4
 24
Main Line
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 9
Cave Man
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 13
Center flow
Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 3
Zippo's Frozen Booger
Trad, Ice
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 12
Gold Mind
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 260
Third Pillar, Regular Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 9
Barbarians Near the Gate
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Tastes Great
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
The Speed of Life
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Bag O' Tricks
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 5
Stones Throw
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Eastside Elixir
Sport 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 11
Silver Bullet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 11
Master Cylinder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chouinards' Right Lee Vining Ice… > Chouinards
 29
WI3 Ice
Main Line Lee Vining Ice… > Main Wall
 24
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Cave Man Lee Vining Ice… > Main Wall
 9
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
Center flow Lee Vining Ice… > Main Wall
 13
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Zippo's Frozen Booger Lee Vining Ice… > Narrows - Left
 3
WI5 Trad, Ice
Gold Mind Ellery Dam Spillway Crag
 12
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Third Pillar, Regular Route Dana Plateau
 260
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Barbarians Near the Gate Lee Vining Ice… > Bard Harrington Wall
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Tastes Great Tioga Cliff Are… > Gold Wall
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Speed of Life Ellery Bowl > Golden Rock
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Bag O' Tricks Tioga Cliff Are… > Tioga Wall
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Stones Throw Tioga Cliff Are… > Tioga Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Eastside Elixir Tioga Cliff Are… > Gold Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Silver Bullet Tioga Cliff Are… > Tioga Wall
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Sport
Master Cylinder Tioga Cliff Are… > Tioga Wall
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road »

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Photos

Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Yesterday I published a new updated and much revised version of a Climber's Guide to Ellery Lake Bowl (MorComm: 2016). 31 pages. All color. ISBN 978-0965023450. MSRP $19.95. It's available on Amazon at:

amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-E…

And will soon be available at Planet Granite and Touchstone climbing gyms in the greater Bay Area. REI should be handling it too. May 26, 2016
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
On May 12, 2017 MorComm Press published an expanded 2nd edition of the Rock Climber's Guide to Ellery Lake Bowl with new sections devoted to Ellery Ridges, Warren Towers, the Pyramid and the Sphinx. It's now available at Maximus Press online in Bishop, California and on Amazon.com Books:

amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-E… May 31, 2017

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