Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: John Fischer and Jay Jensen, 1971
Page Views: 25,893 total · 162/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on May 25, 2007 with improvements by Chris Hill and 1 other
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A must-do classic right around the corner from Pratt's Crack. Follows a huge, clean-cut dihedral starting from the top of a 4th class ramp.

An initial tricky finger crack on the right face leads to a long section of hand jams in the corner. A burly lieback up a brief overhanging offwidth leads to a final short chimney. Traverse right, passing the anchors for Queen of Heartbreaks to the anchors for Shiela (directly above the chimney).

Location

Pratt's Crack area, on the right side. A large corner whose right face is split by a large roof 1/3 of the way up.

Scramble up 50' of 4th class to a bolted belay below a tree and the start of the real climbing.

Protection

Cams from micro to 3". Optional #6 for upper lieback.

Rappel with 2 ropes. A single 80m just reaches with stretch, or might require a few feet of 4th class downclimbing.

Photos