Eric Sorenson Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] The Bishop guide book calls for a 6" piece, but I couldn't find anywhere to place it. Extra 2-3" cams are useful. Jul 12, 2007

Chris Owen Big Bear Lake

[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb. Small stuff towards the end of the long corner. Aug 25, 2007

jonathan howland San Francisco

[Hide Comment] Re: the 6 inch piece the first commentator didn't place -- it very nicely protects the crux lieback move. Alternatively, or in addition, once you start the lieback (and well above your last gear) you can get 2" piece (gold C4) high and deep in a recessed crack behind the block your hands are on. Jul 3, 2009

Denis O'Connor   5.10b

[Hide Comment] FA: John Fischer, Jay Jensen, 1971 Oct 16, 2009

PumpkinEater Sacramento

[Hide Comment] I would suggest carrying the 6" piece to protect the crux layback if, like me, you're trad lead limit is at around 5.10. I thought the layback was pretty committing and a fall would, it seemed to me, smash you back into the dihedral below. Pneumothorax anybody? On the bright side, at the top of the layback there's a jug and spot where you can literally straddle a pillar and have a seat! Aug 17, 2010

Aaron Cassebeer Tehachapi, CA

[Hide Comment] There are three fixed cams as of 8-28-10. 1. One below the start of the crux lieback. (got stuck when my partner whipped off the crux, she didn't have a #6) 2. One up and to the left of the lieback. (It is possible to actually climb around the crux and do a variation up and left of the flake. I think this piece is from someone else also climbing this variation, 5.9???) 3. There's a fixed forged friend in the chimney if you look for it. You could actually avoid bringing the #4 at all if you trust this piece. (It was also there in 2008 when I led it.) Also, the crux is not that difficult, but I recommend moving quickly through it. It is not a place you want to be looking to place gear. Aug 31, 2010

Aerili Los Alamos, NM   5.10b

[Hide Comment] I don't understand why everyone thinks the offwidth layback is "the" crux. It is strenuous, true, but the moves are straightforward and are over relatively quickly. A #6 is easy to place at the very top of the wide part if you stem high, thus making any falls you might take surely clean (non-pneumothorax-inducing). The crux for me was clearly at the bottom of the route during the ridiculously thin traverse: mountainproject.com/v/calif… much harder technically than the layback, not to mention the gear is much harder to fiddle in! Bring a selection of super small wires and micro-cams. No extra 2s and 3s required (1-2 each are sufficient). I personally did use a #4 above the chimney at the top as my last piece before making the long traverse to the anchors. Sep 8, 2010

Tavis Ricksecker

[Hide Comment] Agree with Aerili, technical crux down low, mental crux at the spooky layback. Sep 30, 2010

slim   5.10a

[Hide Comment] probably as good as any 10a pitch i have ever climbed. long, great rock, cool crux down low, cool crux up high, good gear, nice belay ledge, great crack climbing.... pretty sweet. Jul 12, 2011

Christina Freschl Berkeley, California

[Hide Comment] A #6 is nice for the layback at the top, but I am a little bit scared by layback. Sep 25, 2011

lou

[Hide Comment] Hey Gang..... re gear...i have a #5 B.D. ..which is fine for a 6 inch crack.... will this work for the wide lieback?? .. not sure from the comments if you need a piece for a 6 inch crack or a #6 B.D.? Hate to go buy a huge cam... but dont want to run it out... thanks for any beta.. cheers lou May 16, 2013

Todd Townsend Bishop, CA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] You'll want a #6 c4 camalot to protect the layback flake, a #5 is too small. Even with the #6, you still need to run it out a little. I took the ride up there once, when my foot slipped at the very top of the layback. Even though I wasn't really that far above the #6, I still went quite the distance with all of the slack and rope stretch at that point. Don't worry, it's exciting, but it's a clean fall! May 16, 2013

lou	[Hide Comment] coolio thxs Todd May 16, 2013

J Hickok Hamilton, MT   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] To Lou and Todd from the May postings: To expand on the topic, I think the OLD BD #5 would likely work as it was larger, but the new BD #5 C4 would not work as it is smaller. A #5 friend does not fit, but #6 friend would. Aug 15, 2013

Peter Valchev Truckee, CA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] +1 on bringing the #6... the lieback would be pretty scary without it! Awesome pitch! Sep 4, 2013

Erik Rieger Maine

[Hide Comment] A classic one-pitcher anywhere. Leave the #6 at the ground. Dec 9, 2013

GhaMby Eagan Heaven   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] I have a strong friend that has done this route many times take a fall at the crux lieback, which I certainly think is the crux, he hit his ass pretty hard into the corner despite lots of rope stretch. I definately use and suggest the #6 C4. The feet at the lieback suck in my not so humble opinion, but I also suck at liebacking. I find that going out left when halfway up the lieback is easiest, but I also have a 6'7" wingspan. . . Jan 16, 2014

Phil Esra

[Hide Comment] The thin crack at the bottom is pretty hard for the grade. Takes nuts well. The main crack is easy and fun. I brought (and used) a #6. The lieback is strenuous and plenty hard enough, but you can get a good cam immediately before it, and the fall would be clean for a long, long way. Next time I wouldn't bring it. The easy chimney moves above the lieback are really fun! Followed by a fun, exposed traverse to the chains. May 27, 2014

Melissa Thaw South Lake Tahoe, CA

[Hide Comment] I agree that the lie back section isn't the crux, but i placed a #6 (not that spooky with a 6). I thought the thin section lower was harder - transferring over into the corner. I placed a micro-nut and some tiny offset cams, which was helpful for me. May 28, 2015

Benjamin Chapman Small Town, USA

[Hide Comment] John Fisher and Jay Jensen. Taken before their time. RIP. Jul 24, 2015

Jeff G Colorado   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Amazing pitch. I personally would not lead this without the #6 friend. I had one and was really glad to have protection on the burly lieback moves up top. Sep 29, 2015

mattyups

[Hide Comment] What a classic climb! This one meets all the criteria: beautiful setting, impeccable rock, fun and diverse moves, and what a summit! This is not one to be missed. Technical crux is down low, physical crux the layback section. Good pro to be had before both and on the route as a whole. Leave the #6 on the ground and get on this beauty! May 31, 2016

Cha Tate Saint George, UT

[Hide Comment] I agree with Jeff G. I did not bring a 6 cam, and if I did it again I probably would. I also agree this is not 10a, more like 10c. The route can be rapped with a single 70meter rope (I did) but it involved tensioning off the single bolt (out on the left wall from the start of the layback) while on rappel. Then walk the ledge to the anchor of ecstasy, clip in and tension back to the bolt to retrieve your gear. Then a single rap will get you to the start ledge where easy down climbing leads to the ground. If you want to avoid the down climb, rap from the ecstasy chain to a mid way anchor on an old aid line where one more rap will get you to the ground. Then try to avoid the trees when you pull your rope! Jul 6, 2016

Daniel Vakili Los Angeles, CA

[Hide Comment] 5.10, you can place bomber #1 below the crux, and bomber #3 during. No #6 needed, even if you fall it seems to be a clean one. There are rap anchors directly above, but the anchors to the right make for better pics. Rapped with a single 80m Apr 15, 2017

Jeff Scheuerell

[Hide Comment] Many, if not most, would be happy to have the #6 Apr 16, 2017

Tomko SANTA CLARA CA   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] The BD #6 is super useful for the lieback. If I were to go again I'd take extra small pieces (2x red and yellow C3s or equivalent); all the hard parts were on very thin sections of crack, especially the low thin crack. Jul 9, 2017

Sean Oak Park, CA

[Hide Comment] led with a 70 from trailside base all the way to the shared anchor with Queen Of The Heartbreaks and Eclipsed (not to the slightly higher newer rap anchor closer to the dihedral) with about 15 ft to spare. a 60 might req a lil simul but not a big deal since the initial diagonal scramble and the diagonal finish to that anchor are both very easy. didn't need to trail a 2nd rope up, but left a 60 at base. once both on top, one person fixed 70 to rap down its single strand, joined 60 to the end of 70 for topside partner to uprope and to rap down via the two joined ropes. the 60 strand also long enough for that rap down to trailside base with about 5 ft to spare to clarify any confusion from a prev comment, Ecstasy is the arete located to climber's right of Pratt's Crack, and Queen Of The Heartbreaks and Eclipsed are the face and arete to the right of Sheila Jul 30, 2017

Blurie . Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] *Gear betas**: no need for triples of 1",2",3" size if you're comfortable with the long 5.9 glory hands in the middle. I would've brought triples of C4 .3 maybe to protect the crux finger crack and before the lieback. Sew up the vertical portion of the crux finger crack because when it jogs horizontal for the crux its verrrrry thin (purple 0 metolius at the widest). 6" piece was nice to have but there is gear about 6' lower without it. Lieback is burly but quite short just dooo it! Dec 31, 2017

Justin Lind Wellington, NZ

[Hide Comment] I am the latest Sheila casualty. I peeled off at the upper crux and took a pretty good whipper. I sprained my ankle pretty bad and had to retreat. I lowered off a nut just below the crux and left a second nut much lower that I couldn't clean without a tool on the lower. Two mid-sized nuts and single biner for the next party. If the next party is willing to send me all the gear I left behind as a momento of my 60-70ft whip it would be much appreciated. If not, please enjoy them! Amazing climbing until the point when my smears failed on the layback. I'll be back to with a #6 as soon as the ankle heals. I can't recommend this line enough! May 14, 2018

Jeff Scheuerell

[Hide Comment] 60-70' ?????? May 14, 2018

Joey Maloney Los Angeles, CA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] I'd say it goes at 10b, due to the length of route. it is a sustained 10a with a few nice rests, but the legs always seem to be working. Bringing a #6 would make the 2nd crux a little less heady. This grade shouldn't deter anyone who is new to the grade to give it a try. Oct 29, 2018

Dougald MacDonald

[Hide Comment] If you don't have the number 6 for the top lieback, you can place good gear out to the left from about halfway up the lieback. It's strenuous to place but not too bad, and you can downclimb to rest after placing the pro. I found a good nut and a red C3 and basically had top-rope protection for the burly crux moves of this section. I didn't see anyplace for a number 2 or 3 cam inside the lieback flake, but I didn't look too hard. Aug 17, 2019

Gumby boy king   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Gahhhh!!!! What a mega climb!! Such a cool moderate climb with some finger locks, hand jams, fists, and a god damn chimney to top it off!! Rack was doubles from .3-3. You could probably get away with one #3, one .75 and one .5. Mar 31, 2020

Brad Burns Story, WY   5.10

[Hide Comment] Fantastic route. One more vote for leaving the #6 on the ground. You can get a bomber .75 before starting the lie back, and there is a fixed nut at the end of this crux section. I couldn’t clip it until reaching the (BETA ALERT) jug at the top of the lie back section. Even if you did fall I think it would be clean. You can also stand up high before commuting to the lieback and place a tiny nut or ball nut in the tiny crack to protect the fall. Unless you are climbing on your absolute limit, leave the #6 on the ground. I brought a double rack from .3-2 with 1 each: .2, and 3. I liked having the .2 for the thin finger crack before the beautiful hands section. This route is pretty amazing! Step up and have fun!! Dec 4, 2020

Chase Morgan San Diego, CA

[Hide Comment] Notice how everyone who says leave the 6 on the ground hasn't fallen? I fell on the 6 and it would have been a long hard fall into that corner if I didn't place it. You have about 35-40 meters of rope out at that point so any fall is going to be a long one. I fell 20 feet with the 6 at my ankles and no slack in the system. Talked to a guy in the gear shop later who didn't place the 6. Whipped so hard into the corner he split his helmet in half. If you have any worry you might fall, bring the damn 6. May 20, 2021

Roddy McCalley Joshua Tree, CA

[Hide Comment] A beautiful route!!! I've climbed this at least six times and never brought a #6 until last weekend... it makes the lieback at the end so much more fun and relaxing! Highly recommended! Unless you don't mind a slippery 5.10 move with potential to swing into a low-angle corner... I mean, just don't fall and it's no problem... do what you want, but I'm bringing the #6 from now on it was $$$. Two ropes to descend. Oh and there are two anchors at the top, use the one on climber's left--it's newer, nicer, and more in-line with your follower but it's on a higher ledge and easy to miss. The (more obvious) anchor on the right is better for the routes on the right, the two 5.11 face climbs (also fun!) Aug 26, 2021

brian burke mammoth lakes, ca

[Hide Comment] lowering to the belay ledge with an 80m rope is 100% fine Oct 17, 2021

Cole Darby Los Angeles, CA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Beta alert Avoid if you don’t want spray or details .. .. .. .. .. For my own notes -lower crux traverse high and step across the little crimp rails on the tiny horizontal crack. Traversing lower is awkward and requires lots of time under tension in splits -upper crux felt more chill by under cling lay backing, with right hand leading, stemming, and going left half way up the feature. -gear: route has good gear and stances to place literally everywhere. black and blue totems protect the lower crux well, as well as the small crack before the number #6 in the upper crux. all other small(or smaller) cams are fine but not really needed. Don’t need #4 at all. The 1 #6 is nice. Doubles from black totem to #3 is probably fine for the main rack. I took triples in #1 and #2 but didn’t use more than doubles. Maybe some extra black and blue totems wouldn’t hurt but that would be for excessive pro. Awesome route. Approachable for a budding 5.10 trad climber. 40m pitch exactly, from the upper belay ledge. Oct 18, 2021

Patrick Cattell Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Yeah bring a 6 for sure. Oct 27, 2022

Chris S Orange County, CA

[Hide Comment] You'd have to be pretty confident to not bring up a #6 with you - just bring it. Incredible climb. Jun 20, 2023

Dustin Stephens   5.10-

[Hide Comment] Rapping from the newer, higher anchor on the left will probably result in your rope getting stuck in the bush about 8' above the lower rappel/Eclipsed belay anchor. I don't believe this happens when using the lower anchor on the right with the lower-offs. Oct 9, 2023