Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Chuck Pratt, Bob Swift, early 1970's
Page Views: 28,084 total · 197/month
Shared By: AWinters on May 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Ridicu-classic and surprisingly secure.

A long and beautiful offwidth in a giant clean-cut dihedral. This is one of the most obvious lines in the canyon. If you're up for a good grovel then hop on.

During colder months, hit this early in the morning as it dips into the shade around noon, maybe earlier. In fact you may not see it at all. Tends to be a windy canyon. Two 60 meter ropes to rappel.


You can see the route from the road on the left side of the two giant dihedrals. "Pratt's" splits the classic white Sierra granite on the right and the dark patina wall on the left. Hard to miss!


Gear to 10", small TCU's useful deep in the secondary crack, BIG camalots and friends (#6), up to blue big bro (but not necessary), and chockstones. Bolt anchor.
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
A blue big bro (10") could be useful if you have one (I did not), as there is a 15 foot section that is bigger than the green one(8"). Only a single set of cams is necessary as you can walk a #6 friend up most of the way. Jul 12, 2007
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
There is a second pitch which I thought was a little harder than the first pitch. It is also quite memorable. There are rappel anchors on the top. Feb 13, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
A really fun climb and much easier than it looks. There are lots of face holds and features on the edge of the crack. It really is not your typical off-width grovel. Aug 5, 2009
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
Despite the large size very little gear is needed for this route. I suggest 1 #6 C4 and 1 #5 C4 (or same sized friends) and then 2-3 finger size pieces (yellow and grey aliens). Also bring many slings and/or quickdraws for chockstones.

A second #6 and #5 could be brought but you really just push the #6 above you until the crack gets too big (8" -10") then you just squeeze in until it thins down again! Sep 21, 2009
Gargano   Arizona
Here's a trip report from Wide Fetish: widefetish.com/trip_reports… Jan 7, 2011
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
The climb can be adequately protected without the big gear by slinging chockstones and plugging small cams on the wall to the left. I didn't place anything larger than a #2 or #3 camalot. Sep 12, 2011
+1 Jonathans recommendation above. I brought two #3 camalots for the beginning (placed deep), slung 3 or 4 chockstones, and a few yellow aliens for up high. Unless you have some BigBros, plan on running it out 30' or so up to the chains. The climbing is not at grade through this section, as the right wall has many juggy face features. Jun 11, 2012
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I found big gear of very little use. Low on the route there's a pod deep in the crack that takes a #4 (or probably something else on the side), which I was glad to place between the slung chockstones. Any place I tried to use a #6 it was so tipped out that I wouldn't have dared to fall on it. The only secure place for it was to protect the exit moves, which were easy and by that time I was runout 25 feet anyway. A #5 is useless. The small crack on the left wall that others have mentioned is a looong way up. It took a gold C3 and a little higher a bomber red C4, which I thought was the Jesus piece of the whole route. The above is all the gear I used. Slinging chocks is really what this climb is all about. Jun 18, 2012
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ

But... I cannot imagine how you could say a #6 BD is tipped out on this route??? I walked mine for a good 50 feet. Actually took 2, cause I like pro. Used them both, heavily. Seriously, what route were you on???? Yes after 50 of about 150 feet, you're done w the 6's....so they don't work? 50 feet of stout 5.9 off width, off the deck, is a good place to pay attention.

Also there is a great 5 if you look for it. And yes at least 4 chockstones to sling. But again this route is loooong, and frankly I thought the much-praised gear on the left was tricky and not at all inspiring- that crack is quite shallow. So for those who want a gear list that will sew this up nicely:

2 #6's, 1 #5, 1-2 blue big bros (i had one, placed it too early, and had a 30 foot runout to chains, next time I bring a 2nd...), and many slings for chockstones, you can bring yellow to black metolious but don't expect much from these pieces, and you can get a #0 metolious as the last piece before the chains if the runout has you frazzled.... Sep 4, 2012
Phil Esra  
I brought a huge rack. Everything but the big stuff just got in my way. I placed
two #4s, one #5, and two #6s (#5s would have fit better than the #4s if I had them), and clipped 3 slung chockstones. This required a 50-60' runout on easy-ish terrain; to protect it "well" would require at least one piece wider than a #6.

The climbing is pretty moderate after the last chockstone, but it's a long way before a #6 will fit again. After it narrows enough to take a #6 again it gets quite easy. I didn't look for the alleged little stuff on the wall my back was against--it was too awkward to keep an eye out for; I just wanted to get that second #6 off my harness asap.

The climb requires very little actual OW technique (just short sections here and there), but it's still quite awkward in a classically offwidth way. I found leading it to be surprisingly annoying. I imagine toproping it, without all the giant gear in the way and without the rope constantly in the way of the footholds on the arete, would be more fun. Actually, maybe just tying your knot so that it hangs below you would make a big difference--then the rope would run inside the crack instead of down the arete, where you have to fight it for the footholds.

A beautiful, beautiful line that is nicer to look at than climb.

(I also brought one of the #6s on Sheila, right next door. Next time I would just risk the clean fall onto the good cam immediately below the wide section. Climbing with a #6 just sucks.) May 27, 2014
Johnny Y
Johnny Y   California
Way more impressive to see this in person! The section down low feels similar to Ivory Tower Left, except there are more features for your hands and feet - so don't get intimidated and get on it!

Next time I would bring a pair of comfortable shoes, 1#6, 2#5, a #4 or #3 for the bottom half. Then blue bigbro and some finger sized gears for the top half, but the climbing there is very secure and you have to run it out regardless. Jul 6, 2014
I just did this last week, and Ybarra's gear beta makes no sense. You can walk a WC #6 for most of the bottom, and then finally again towards the top. There is definitely a little blank stretch in the upper half though, where the gear goes away and so did my heel-toe.

In no particular order, I used a single WC#6 and two WC #5, two BD #4, a #2 metolious on the side wall, a BD #0.5 against a chockstone, and a couple of small nuts on that side wall. I probably could have gotten a few more things in, but I ran out of slings pretty quickly with all the chockstone slinging. One of my #5s was way up high and not really necessary, and one of my #4s was way down low and equally unnecessary. I seem to recall getting in a #3 somewhere down low last time, but this time I just ended up carrying them all the way up with me. Jul 22, 2014
-beautiful, aesthetic corner; the climbing itself was not that classic. Felt about 5.8, and ended up a little disappointed...
-as others mentioned, wide cams were generally not that useful. Sep 4, 2014
Aaron Johnston
fort collins
Aaron Johnston   fort collins
For anybody out there like me, who really had to psych themselves up to get on this thing, I'll add a little fuel to the fire.

Lots of gear out on the left. It's not strenuous or awkward to place, you just grunt to a good stance, wiggle something in, and repeat. Almost got an entire singles rack of cams from bomber black alien to wonky #3 along with a few nuts over the course of the climb. This doesn't mean that the big gear is useless. The 5's and 6's still protect the crux of the climb in the 1st 30-40 ft, and big bro's are still needed to avoid a big runout, but in between there is plenty of other stuff along with the chockstones.

So don't be intimidated by a lack of gear, I probably never ran it out more than 15-20', and that was on secure, can't fall out of, easier terrain. Oct 31, 2015
Fixed a cam (Red C3 about 2/3's the way up) this past weekend on Pratt's Crack climb. If anyone happens to get it out and feels like earning some major karma points, let me know. Otherwise, may the red C3 have a life of high adventure. Jan 19, 2016
Olek S  
Climbed it yesterday. Temps around 100 in Bishop, 85ish in the canyon, but once the wall went into the shade (around 11:30am) there was a really nice breeze. Plenty of space to rest. Brought a sh*tload of gear and ended placing BD C4 2 and 3 on the beginning, walked BD C4 6 until it got too wide, and switched to Valley Giant 9. Placed one C4 .75 in the secondary crack (where the secondary cracks start there was some space for BD C4 0.3 or X4 0.3 offset on the left and something 0.2-0.3ish with a narrow head on the right side deeper in the crack).

Topped with the whole rack using only: C4:0.75,2,3,6, and VG 9, two slings on the chockstones and 3-4 alpine quickdraws on the slings that were already there. One of the anchor bolts is a bit loose (the right one).

With 80 meter rope there is no need to carry a second rope. Running through the gear placed in the crack the rope's mid point was at the anchor when the second was 6-7 feet above the ground; running straight down from the anchor both ends were on the ground. Aug 1, 2016
abandon moderation   Tahoe
I took a Merlin #8 on this and it felt like cheating. From where the #6 gets tipped out I was able to push the #8 up the rest of the climb.

Funny quote from Bishop Area Rock Climbs: "One hundred and fifty feet long and every inch of it off-width, this route is now seldom climbed, coveted only by the very brave and the borderline retarded." Oct 7, 2018