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Controversial Insert
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Failsafe Wall
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Chompin' at the Bit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Controversial Insert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crumb Donut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Drill Rig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Failsafe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flailsafe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flailsafe pitch 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flailsafe (Retro bolted) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hitchhiker's guide to the Gorge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Small Talk Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Thrill Pig S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 37.52662, -118.57462 |
| FA: | Landin, Ayers 1989 |
| Page Views: | 837 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue:
Details
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Featuring a beautiful splitter, this pitch is two stars by itself, but three in conjunction with the approach, the first pitch of Failsafe.
From the anchors atop Failsafe P1, climb straight up an easy crack for about 20', place gear w/ long runners, face traverse left for about 10' (5.8-9, no gear) and gain the bottom of the splitter. The splitter starts as rattly fingers and quickly widens to good hands; which the patina on the wall around the crack is very smooth, the inside of the crack is as rough as a shredder JTree pitch -- tape may be advised. Above the crack there is a steep slot with a tricky finger/fist wudge move. A ledge and crusty sling anchors follow. The slings don't offer much visual comfort so you might want to bring a knife and something to replace them with; the bolts they're attached to seemed fine.
While continuing from the anchor seemed feasible and even desirable, CI ends at this point with a 115' rap back to the anchor at the end of Failsafe P1.
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