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Routes in Failsafe Wall

Controversial Insert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crumb Donut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drill Rig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flailsafe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hitchhiker's guide to the Gorge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Landin, Ayers 1989
Page Views: 87 total · 1/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Featuring a beautiful splitter, this pitch is two stars by itself, but three in conjunction with the approach, the first pitch of Failsafe.

From the anchors atop Failsafe P1, climb straight up an easy crack for about 20', place gear w/ long runners, face traverse left for about 10' (5.8-9, no gear) and gain the bottom of the splitter. The splitter starts as rattly fingers and quickly widens to good hands; which the patina on the wall around the crack is very smooth, the inside of the crack is as rough as a shredder JTree pitch -- tape may be advised. Above the crack there is a steep slot with a tricky finger/fist wudge move. A ledge and crusty sling anchors follow. The slings don't offer much visual comfort so you might want to bring a knife and something to replace them with; the bolts they're attached to seemed fine.

While continuing from the anchor seemed feasible and even desirable, CI ends at this point with a 115' rap back to the anchor at the end of Failsafe P1.

Location

Do the first pitch of Failsafe.

Protection

Double set of cams from .5 Camalot to #3 Camalot. 1 #4 Camalot. We had some smaller gear including nuts but I don't think we used them.

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outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10d
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10d
I removed the old webbing and replaced it with chains for the rappel. I would also include two #0.4 camalots or the equivalent to the rack listed above. Mar 3, 2007
jonathan howland
San Francisco
jonathan howland   San Francisco
Said "wudge" move protects nicely with a #3 Camalot. We thought this the crux of the pitch. C.I./Flailsafe is very worthy. Nov 25, 2007

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