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Routes in Armando's Stilletto / Rites of Spring

Another Summer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Armando's Stilletto T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astrolamb T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friendly Faces Everywhere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inspector Downside T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inspector Wedget T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lizard Lounge, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rites of Spring T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
South Park T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upside Downside T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Kevin Leary, Bill Taylor
Page Views: 7,459 total · 53/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jan 16, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The 'long' trad classic of Pine Creek, with lots of hand cracks and variety. A bit of crumbly and/or hollow rock in several spots (including the crux).

Location

See Marty Lewis guide. Two raps with two 60m ropes just barely make it down (watch rope ends!). The second rap comes down right in the middle of the sport routes on the Ministry wall, and the creek noise makes it hard to hear, so make sure you yell "Rope!" very loudly and give folks below a bit of time to react before you pummel them with the ends of two 60m ropes dropped from 190' above!

Protection

Pro to 4" including micronuts/RPs for crux, extra 1.25-3". Two trad anchors, two bolted anchors with Mussy hooks (top of 2nd, top of 4th).

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
A note should be made about the third pitch. The out of print orange Bishop book shows the route going out left around/under the roof at the end of the chimney. I tried that and encountered a bail nut/biner. The route actually goes out right from the top of the chimney as shown in Croft's book, "The Good, the Great and the Awesome". Nov 2, 2007
jonathan howland
San Francisco
 
jonathan howland   San Francisco
 
Best 5.10 route on the East Side in my view -- every pitch good, and every pitch better than its predecessor, physical and sustained. We thought each of the first three pitches was equally challenging and in the .10a/b range. A single easy stretch is the first 40 feet of P3 -- the chimney.
  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
The technical crux on P4 is protected by a pin. A yellow C3 protects the next move, and a slot at the back of the hand traverse takes a yellow alien. Jul 3, 2009
Michael Loh
Boulder, CO
 
Michael Loh   Boulder, CO
 
awesome climb. p1 had some tricky climbing for the shorter person and required some thinking, esp at the crux. I am 5'7" and felt it may go at 10b instead of 10a. I also felt p3 was harder than p4. way more sustained and burly. having said that, the wide section at the end of p4 shut me down for a little bit. Aug 21, 2010
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
another fantastic route in this beautiful canyon. varied, interesting, fairly sustained, great views. a real good time. Jul 12, 2011
Don't remember a pin on p4. Climbed route May 2010 May 1, 2012
There is definitely a pin on pitch 4. It was bent from what looked like numerous falls, but it didn't look old or rusty. Aug 27, 2012
Pitch one and two just link with a 70m and make an incredible continuous super fun full value mega pitch. Jul 7, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10d
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10d
The third pitch is about the same difficulty as the fourth, both about 10+. Mar 1, 2014
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.10d
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.10d
Every pitch is great! May 14, 2014
Excellent climb! I found the technical crux short, and the rest of the climbing physical and sustained.

Located a little ways left of Pratt's Crack, just before the Ministry Wall curves up into a gully.

P1: Start in a right-leaning off-fingers crack, which opens and cleans up into a dihedral. Belay on gear on a big ledge. 5.10a
P2: Follow corner up to the base of a chimney, belay on bolts on the face to the right. 5.9
P3: Climb the chimney, move right and pull the exciting roof to the hand crack above. Belay on gear on a ledge. 5.10b
P4: Climb thinning cracks to a fixed pin, and the crux rightward traverse. Pull up into a hand/fist crack that leads to the bolted anchor. 5.10d Sep 19, 2014
Josh Janes    
 
I led this in two pitches and didn't place a single piece smaller than 0.4 Camalot. Leave the small cams and RP's behind?

I think it would be possible to rap from the top anchor diagonally down to the anchor of Astrolamb and thus rappel with a single 70m cord though I cannot confirm that it works. Aug 9, 2015
Dave Vaughan
Boulder, CO
 
Dave Vaughan   Boulder, CO
 
Personally I think this is a 2 star route; a few sections of poor rock and several sections of somewhat 'grovely' climbing keep it from being classic in my book. That said, it is certainly worth doing if in the area. As others have mentioned, the first rap is basically a full 200' and requires a significant leftward swing to reach the anchors - I suggest having the first person take knotted ends down with them to avoid any issues. Aug 28, 2015
kck
 
kck  
 
My 70m did not link the first 2 pitches. But then again it was consistently short by a few feet this entire trip. No, ends were not chopped. So be aware if you want to link pitches. If unsure best to break it up.

4th pitch is really short so I believe it is possible to link 3+4.

Also my 65m static line barely touched the ground on rappels (and to the intermediate station). Watch your ends when you rap! Sep 30, 2015
Keradactyl
Golden, Co
Keradactyl   Golden, Co
So much fun! The style is very different than other routes in the area - much more traditional and crack-tastic. 100% would do again. Nov 16, 2015
Will M.
Oakland
Will M.   Oakland
Super mega classic in my opinion. Great sustained splitter climbing. For me there was definitely no need for small nuts or RPs at crux. Crux protected with a pin and .4 Camalot. I don't remember placing anything below a .3 Camalot. Mar 29, 2016
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
Descent can be done with one 70 m rope, all from bolted anchors. Tie knots at the ends as some of them are close and the raps are steep. Rapping pitch 1 to the ground is from bolted anchors of "Free Beaks" on the Ministry Wall.

Pitch lengths for climbing are:
P1: 140 ft
P2: 100 ft
P3: 120 ft
P4: 100 ft Jun 2, 2017
William Buchanan
Seattle, WA
 
William Buchanan   Seattle, WA
 
Careful with the sport climbers down below, specifically with rappels. One 70m will get you down, so no tagline necessary. Sep 26, 2017
Not just the sport climbers. My wife and I were almost nailed by a baseball size rock just as I was starting up Pratt's. We got the hell out of there. Sep 26, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c/d
Great route and four stars in my book.

P1 - Long pitch with some techy hard sections. 10a/b. Gear anchor. There are bolts out left for the new 70m rappel, but we didn't use them for the anchor.
P2 - 80' of classic granite crack climbing in a corner. Get's a bit wide towards the top. Bolted anchor. 5.9+
P3 - Personally, I think this is the "crux" pitch of the climb. It's a long pitch that will take all the gear you can throw at it. You also have to manage rope drag, otherwise you'll be cursing on the final 50' to a NEW bolted anchor. A new bolted anchor has been added to assist in the descent. According to the person who added them, they were added to facilitate a single 70m rope descent down and left to avoid pulled ropes coming down on all the climbers directly below on Ministry Wall. I'd rate this pitch burly 10b.
P4 - The 10d section is very short (5-10') and well protected. There are good cams below and above the pin. I used offset cams, but normal ones would go in too I suspect. After pulling the crux, expect about 30' of burly wide crack crack climbing.

You can now rap the route with a 70m because of the new anchors atop P3.

Gear: We had a heafty rack, and was perfectly happy with it. P1 and P3 can take alot of gear. We had triples from #0.5 camalot to #3 camalot and double #4 camalots - and placed them all. Bring some small cams and nuts as well. If this climb is anywhere near your limit, take triples from #1-#3 at a minimum IMO. May 12, 2018

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