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Routes in Solarium

Aberration S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Black Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direchossimo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flux Capacitor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flux Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Focus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Wood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Russian Meteors S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sabado Gigante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sendero Luminoso S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shocker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Snake Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Descison S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Static Cling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernova S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: 11/2004, Marty Lewis, Kevin Calder, Andrew Stevens, Peter Croft, Mike Forkash, Steve Calder
Page Views: 1,075 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jon duSaint on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Long kinda chossy face leads to handcrack. This route will be great once it cleans up.

Protection

12 bolts

Photos

Gave this thing a good sweeping today but it still needs work. 7 days ago
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
This climb is cleaning up and gets better and better each year. Varied, long and really fun IMO. Mar 10, 2016
Pickles
Bishop, ca
Pickles   Bishop, ca
Just got on it today; kitty litter would be a good way to describe some places, but on the whole, nice, easy, and fun. Good route. Sep 7, 2014
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
Maybe this thing is cleaning up a bit? The whole face still looks like junk, but it climbed pretty well, don't remember any obviously loose stuff. Nov 9, 2013
andiran  
The guidebook calls the first part "crunchy"-- perfect description. Still lots of debris. Very enjoyable once you get to the crack. Oct 20, 2012
Howie Stern
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Howie Stern   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Still vertical kitty litter...One of the dirtiest routes I've done down there... Dec 19, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Despite debris on the top of a lot of the holds, I thought this climb was enjoyable. It's more tightly bolted than a lot of the neighboring Great Wall moderates, so make sure your belayer's wearing a helmet and go for it. Jan 21, 2011
Yes (to prev. comment). And if Marty's endowing SG with the status cited above isn't sufficient incentive for you, gornisht helfin (Yiddish -- for "nothing can help." Probably misspelled). I think it's a worthy route. (Have your belayer stand to the side and wear a helmet.) May 24, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Is this the crack that is just to the right of sendero luminoso? Jan 6, 2007
It's getting better than it was initially, but at this rate it will still be many years before it cleans up well. Head for the crack when you get near it, and you'll avoid some of the choss. Marty Lewis said it was the dirtiest thing he'd ever done in the Gorge, and considering he's done nearly every route here, that's saying a lot! Dec 15, 2006
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.8
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
  5.8
Agreed this thing will be good if it cleans up, but I'm not too sure it ever will. Climbs like a vertical kitty litter box in its current state. Everyone should take one for the team and climb it to help clean it up. Dec 15, 2006