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Areas in Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property)

Gold Wall, The 4 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Quaking Aspen Wall 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Tioga Wall 2 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elevation: 9,197 ft
GPS: 37.946, -119.226 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,861 total · 154/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Southeast facing wall under the HWY with very cool and hard bolted and mixed routes (take some gear for most routes). In the sun until 1:30ish. Follow the directions in the Reid/Falkenstein book...The deproach is not as bad as its written up or looks (the descent to Third Pillar is WAY worse).

Getting There

Park at a pullout 8.2 miles up 120 from 395. Just east of the green bridge. An old info display entitled "Don't Fence Me In" confirms you're at the right spot. Hop the guard rail and descend via a steep climber's' trail. 10 minutes to the first climbable route on the first wall (the Tioga Wall), 20-25 minutes to the furthest routes/walls.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Dancing With the Wind
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Warm Up
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Hummingbird
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Gold Fever
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Makayla's Fantastic Climb
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Tastes Great
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Hole in the Wall
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 7
Joint Effort
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Bag O' Tricks
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 5
Swiss Chocolate
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 5
Stones Throw
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Less Filling
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Just Chillin'
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 11
Silver Bullet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 11
Master Cylinder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dancing With the Wind Gold Wall
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Warm Up Gold Wall
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hummingbird Quaking Aspen Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gold Fever Gold Wall
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Makayla's Fantastic Climb Quaking Aspen Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tastes Great Gold Wall
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Hole in the Wall Gold Wall
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Joint Effort Tioga Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Bag O' Tricks Tioga Wall
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Swiss Chocolate Tioga Wall
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Stones Throw Tioga Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Less Filling Gold Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Just Chillin' Gold Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Silver Bullet Tioga Wall
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Sport
Master Cylinder Tioga Wall
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property) »

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Photos

Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
Lonnie Kauk just sent his project a couple days ago. Bolted headwall left of Silver Bullet. 13c and looks RAD!. Nice send! Jul 9, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Slightly below and looker's left of the Tioga Cliff lies the Gold Wall. Awesome, varied sport and trad climbing. Technically a part of the Tioga Cliff, but located under "Gold Wall" in the Tuolumne Meadows section of "Destinations" on this site. Dec 2, 2009

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