markguycan > Comments
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Nov 19, 2021
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bernard- 4 pitches relates to the required 3 approach pitches of Mooses Butte plus one of the route describ…
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Feb 9, 2021
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while not hard the chimney does not offer any reasonable pro with the recommended gear. Had the description…
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Feb 6, 2021
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anchors have carabiners for rap
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Dec 18, 2020
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thx Eric, we enjoyed this one: easy bolt protected crack leads to vertical face w/ pockets and a lip to und…
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Nov 22, 2020
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Hey Derek, would you mind dropping a GPS pin on the map? thx-M
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May 31, 2020
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Thanks Arjunn for adding a bolt to the first pitch, Manny and I discussed it on FA and I was against it as…
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May 31, 2020
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Thanks for the vote of approval Zach! You probably got the FFA of the 3rd pitch variation which I call "Cow…
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Jan 28, 2020
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coordinates if you are into that: Lat 34.888083 Lon -111.749625 I felt the first pitch harder this time,…
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Jan 6, 2020
Central Arizona
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> Lower Devil's C…
> Lower Devil's E…
> Shmotem Pole
> Shmotem Pole (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)
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schmotem schmegma!
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Dec 4, 2019
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Lat 33.276536 Lon -111.029463
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Dec 4, 2019
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cleaned about 20# for loose rock just below the crux, there is still an expanding flake you may be tempted…
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Dec 4, 2019
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somebody please prune the cat claw at the base! purple camalot is useful between the last and 2nd to last…
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Dec 4, 2019
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awesome adventure! Thankyou Marcy and Geir! No loose rock was encountered! Someone removed the rap rings…
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Nov 20, 2019
Northern Arizona
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> Sedona
> Midgley Bridge…
> Octopus's Garden
> Aquaman (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)
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looks like Aquaman should have a second pitch to the ridge!
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Oct 30, 2019
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dicey lead, lots of bad rock but the moves are fun. plenty of opportunity to get seriously hurt on this one…
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Oct 4, 2019
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Thanks Derek for another great route! tat was in reasonable condition as of 10/4/19. I do think it wold be…
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Jul 30, 2019
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Re Chrstian's post: yes, follow the lieback left of the wider crack up thru a roof to the 2 bolt anchor. F…
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Mar 13, 2019
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I always thought that looked like a cool line! good job getting it done!
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Jan 25, 2019
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13yrs later... finally went back and replaced the missing 3rd bolt. The route is friendlier than ever: go g…
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Jan 5, 2019
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This route is named for my still-birth son Zephyr. I dreamed of teaching him to climb but he died 01/10/201…
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Nov 1, 2018
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Great route! I'd skip the #5 and bring all the #4s you can get a hold of. I had 4 plus a #3.5 and bumped th…
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Sep 16, 2018
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what is the OW line to the left pulling the roof?
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Jul 4, 2018
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@34.5466599,-111.4361291,140
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Jul 4, 2018
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Sorry Kujawski, recommended to just do first pitch and rap Vertical Addiction.
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Apr 19, 2018
Northern Arizona
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1
> Castle Rock Area
> Castle Rock
> S Face
> Excalibur (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)
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I remember scoping those out once upon a time!
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Jan 20, 2018
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I looked at doing that a couple years ago, was it damp?
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Jan 20, 2018
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Attempted this in 2007 or 2008 w/ Derek Weiss. He had a chockstone shift and crush his hand (eg. Aaron Rals…
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Dec 10, 2017
Northern Arizona
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> Sedona
> Midgley Bridge…
> Submarine (Stea…
> Pepperland (5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a)
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scenic!
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Dec 10, 2017
Northern Arizona
> …
> Sedona
> Midgley Bridge…
> Submarine (Stea…
> Pepperland (5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a)
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is this the Super Secret Stuff you couldn't tell me about?
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Dec 6, 2017
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Slim- if you go all the way to the summit, the cactus is your anchor, if you downclimb from there (easy) to…
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Nov 12, 2017
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youtu.be/9ssYZQnso4I?t=51s The rules are written in the stone...
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Nov 11, 2017
Northern Arizona
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1
> Dry Creek Rd Area
> Lizardhead Area
> N Lizardhead
> La Garganta de La Lag… (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)
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great rock and exposure!
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Nov 11, 2017
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say that three times fast with a mouthful of gatorade!
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Nov 11, 2017
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if the 5.0X approach ledge doesn't entice you, traverse right from trail on bushy ledge about 20 ft lower,…
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Oct 29, 2017
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Only 1 bolt on the last pitch, easier than the previous ...but-- heads up!!
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Oct 29, 2017
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recommend dbl set to #3, nuts, 70M does get you off East side in 1 rap- not sure there is a second anchor t…
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