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Routes in Soldiers Pass

Alladin's Turbin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tasmanian Devil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 4,700 ft
Page Views: 2,076 total, 34/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

A secluded area with stellar views over Soldiers Pass, Brins Mesa, Mormon Canyon, and the vast expanse to the north. It also has some great routes. You will likely never run into another party here. The rock quality varies from very good on Tasmanian Devil to moderate on Aladdin's Lamp and Alladin's Turbin.

Getting There

This area is best approached from the Soldiers Pass Trailhead (especially is you have a high clearance 4WD vehicle).
You can also approach from the Brins Mesa Trailhead but the drive is longer and you will probably end up bushwhacking.

Soldiers Pass TH: From the junction of Routes 89A and 179, take 89A west 1.2 miles to Solider Pass Road on the right. Go 1.5 miles to Rim Shadows Drive, then right 0.2 miles (keep straight ahead where Rim Shadows branches left) to a gated entry road to trailhead parking on the left.

Climbing: The approach is one hour from the Soldiers Pass TH or 40 minutes if you have a 4WD.

From Soldiers Pass TH hike north out of the parking lot on on the jeep road, staying straight at all junctions, for about 1 mile. Or if you have a high clearance vehicle just drive to the end of the road (my old pickup makes it just fine). Leave the road and get on the soldiers pass trail. Follow it north up the hill for 15-20 mins.

Just before the pass there is a slick rock area strewn with black rocks/debris. Leave the trail here and head up and left across the slick rock towards a tree with multiple large low branches. A faint trail takes off from here.

Follow this trail for about five minutes until it ends in a large slick rock area that runs to the west. Looking west from here you see a large butte formation (see picture in Tasmanian Devil write-up). To its right is a shorter formation, they are separated by a gully. On the left side of the shorter formation is an obvious low-angle double splitter. Tasmanian Devil is at the top of the small drainage to the right of this splitter. You can see the top half of it from here. The spire farther right is Alladin’s lamp. Alladin's Turbin is the short stubby spire to your left (way left below the other butte).

For Alladin's Turbin hike across the slickrock and bear left on a faint trail that traverses over the top of a gully. Then pick your way to the spire. The route is on the SE side just below the notch.

For Tasmanian Devil and Alladin's Lamp hike the entire extent of the slick rock west heading towards the double splitter. At it’s western extent, just before a pour off, head left up a wash marked by a cairn. Stay in this wash for just a minute or so until a cairn marks a point where you climb out the bank to the right.

Go up the bank and follow faint trail/cairns through forest and downhill until you are in the large wash below the double splitter with a cairn (picture)

Head up this wash following occasional cairns.

Leave the wash to the right just below the splitter and traverse under the formation across slick rock following cairns.

Follow cairns up the Tasmanian Devil drainage bearing right to avoid heinous debris.

Tasmanian Devil is at the top.

For Alladin's Lamp (written up in the Brin's Mesa area)just continue straight, the spire is obvious. Combining Tasmanian Devil with Alladin's lamp makes a great day of stellar climbing. The wider crack on Alladins lamp's east face is 5.10 (I dream of Genie)and the excellent hand/finger crack on the west face is 5.11-

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Soldiers Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tasmanian Devil
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tasmanian Devil 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
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