Elevation: 4,600 ft
GPS: 34.833, -111.763 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,575 total · 2,379/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Twin Butte is a beautiful area on the southern boundary of Sedona, near The Chapel of the Holy Cross which is a popular tourist destination. If there is such a thing as a condensed area in Sedona, this is it.

West Twin Butte is the place to be if you are looking for sport routes. Crags such as The Planetarium, The Cemetery, and The Beach Areas offer up everything from slickstone slab routes to overhanging jug hauls on both Coconino and Schnebly sandstone. There are a handful of good trad routes to be found here as well, so you might want to bring the rack in case something catches your eye.

East Twin Butte has a few sport routes, but it's the trad climbing here that's really going to spur you into action. Home to The Church Spires, The Church and Religion Walls, The Trundler's Club Buttress, and more. The routes vary from old school spire summits, to 5.12 finger cracks, with confirmed classics.

Getting There

The main access is off of Chapel Road, though alternatives exist. See individual pages for details.

75 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 77
Original North Face Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Genesis
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 30
Muppets in Space
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 60
Starship Trooper
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Trundler's Club
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 59
Space Cowboys
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Sun Dogs
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 22
Castles in the Sand
Trad 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Pussy Mind Trick
Trad 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Do The Bosco
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 30
Lunar Lander
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 11
Alpine Follies Hangover
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 55
Mission To Mars
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Galactic Hitchhiker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original North Face Route E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Streaker Spire
 77
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Genesis E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 31
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Muppets in Space W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 30
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Starship Trooper W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 60
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trundler's Club E Twin Butte > Trundler's Buttress
 47
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Space Cowboys W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Sun Dogs W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Castles in the Sand E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 22
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Pussy Mind Trick E Twin Butte > Trundler's Buttress
 19
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Lower Religion Wall
 16
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Do The Bosco W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 34
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lunar Lander W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 30
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Alpine Follies Hangover E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Upper Religion Wall
 11
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
Mission To Mars W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 55
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Galactic Hitchhiker W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Twin Butte »

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Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Trying to clean these areas up a bit, so they will be more congruent with published guides. It will take a day for the route counts to adjust. Feb 26, 2017
Need a climbing partner Feb 5 or 6. Message me! Jan 7, 2018