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Elevation: 4,600 ft 1,402 m
GPS: 34.83343, -111.76322
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 203,405 total · 2,312/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Twin Butte is a beautiful area on the southern boundary of Sedona, near The Chapel of the Holy Cross which is a popular tourist destination. If there is such a thing as a condensed area in Sedona, this is it.

West Twin Butte is the place to be if you are looking for sport routes. Crags such as The Planetarium, The Cemetery, and The Beach Areas offer up everything from slickstone slab routes to overhanging jug hauls on both Coconino and Schnebly sandstone. There are a handful of good trad routes to be found here as well, so you might want to bring the rack in case something catches your eye.

East Twin Butte has a few sport routes, but it's the trad climbing here that's really going to spur you into action. Home to The Church Spires, The Church and Religion Walls, The Trundler's Club Buttress, and more. The routes vary from old school spire summits, to 5.12 finger cracks, with confirmed classics.

Getting There Suggest change

The main access is off of Chapel Road, though alternatives exist. See individual pages for details.

89 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 134
Original North Face Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Heirloom
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 23
Reef Shark
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 119
Starship Trooper
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 57
Trundlers Club
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 131
Space Cowboys
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
Castles in the Sand
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
Moon Juice
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Typhoon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Red Lizard
Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Mind Trick
Trad 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Alpine Follies Hangover
Trad
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 92
Mission To Mars
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 23
Galactic Hitchhiker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original North Face Route E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Streaker Spire
 134
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Heirloom W Twin Butte > Genetic Wall
 37
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Reef Shark W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Starship Trooper W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 119
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trundlers Club E Twin Butte > Trundlers Buttress
 57
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Space Cowboys W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 131
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Castles in the Sand E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Moon Juice W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Upper Beach
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Typhoon W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Red Lizard W Twin Butte > Cemetery
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Mind Trick E Twin Butte > Trundlers Buttress
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Lower Religion Wall
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Alpine Follies Hangover E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Upper Religion Wall
 22
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Mission To Mars W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 92
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Galactic Hitchhiker W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 23
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Twin Butte »

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