Elevation: 4,600 ft
GPS: 34.833, -111.763 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 152,429 total · 2,895/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd
Access Issue: Coconino & Kaibab National Forest Closure 6/23/21 Details

Description

Twin Butte is a beautiful area on the southern boundary of Sedona, near The Chapel of the Holy Cross which is a popular tourist destination. If there is such a thing as a condensed area in Sedona, this is it.

West Twin Butte is the place to be if you are looking for sport routes. Crags such as The Planetarium, The Cemetery, and The Beach Areas offer up everything from slickstone slab routes to overhanging jug hauls on both Coconino and Schnebly sandstone. There are a handful of good trad routes to be found here as well, so you might want to bring the rack in case something catches your eye.

East Twin Butte has a few sport routes, but it's the trad climbing here that's really going to spur you into action. Home to The Church Spires, The Church and Religion Walls, The Trundler's Club Buttress, and more. The routes vary from old school spire summits, to 5.12 finger cracks, with confirmed classics.

Getting There

The main access is off of Chapel Road, though alternatives exist. See individual pages for details.

84 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 113
Original North Face Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Genesis
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Follow Your Bliss
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 45
Muppets in Space
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Starship Trooper
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 54
Trundler's Club
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Space Cowboys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 70
Sun Dogs
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
Castles in the Sand
Trad 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Mind Trick
Trad 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Do The Bosco
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
Alpine Follies Hangover
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 37
Lunar Lander
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 69
Mission To Mars
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original North Face Route E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Streaker Spire
 113
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Genesis E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 42
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Follow Your Bliss E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 30
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Muppets in Space W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 45
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Starship Trooper W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 87
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trundler's Club E Twin Butte > Trundler’s Buttress
 54
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Space Cowboys W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sun Dogs W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 70
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Castles in the Sand E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Mind Trick E Twin Butte > Trundler’s Buttress
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Lower Religion Wall
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Do The Bosco W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 44
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Alpine Follies Hangover E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Upper Religion Wall
 17
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Lunar Lander W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 37
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mission To Mars W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 69
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Twin Butte »

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