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Elevation: 4,600 ft 1,402 m
GPS: 34.83343, -111.76322
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Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
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Description Suggest change

Twin Butte is a beautiful area on the southern boundary of Sedona, near The Chapel of the Holy Cross which is a popular tourist destination. If there is such a thing as a condensed area in Sedona, this is it.

West Twin Butte is the place to be if you are looking for sport routes. Crags such as The Planetarium, The Cemetery, and The Beach Areas offer up everything from slickstone slab routes to overhanging jug hauls on both Coconino and Schnebly sandstone. There are a handful of good trad routes to be found here as well, so you might want to bring the rack in case something catches your eye.

East Twin Butte has a few sport routes, but it's the trad climbing here that's really going to spur you into action. Home to The Church Spires, The Church and Religion Walls, The Trundler's Club Buttress, and more. The routes vary from old school spire summits, to 5.12 finger cracks, with confirmed classics.

Getting There Suggest change

The main access is off of Chapel Road, though alternatives exist. See individual pages for details.

89 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 142
● Original North Face Route
Trad 3 pitches
E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Streaker Spire
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
● Heirloom
Trad
W Twin Butte > Genetic Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 25
● Reef Shark
Trad
W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 129
● Starship Trooper
Sport
W Twin Butte > Planetarium
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 59
● Trundlers Club
Trad 5 pitches
E Twin Butte > Trundlers Buttress
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 146
● Space Cowboys
Sport
W Twin Butte > Planetarium
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
● Castles in the Sand
Trad 3 pitches
E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
● Moon Juice
Sport
W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Upper Beach
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
● Typhoon
Sport
W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
● Red Lizard
Sport 2 pitches
W Twin Butte > Cemetery
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
● Mind Trick
Trad 4 pitches
E Twin Butte > Trundlers Buttress
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
● Watchtower AKA Last Temptation
Trad
E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Lower Religion Wall
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
● Alpine Follies Hangover
Trad
E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Upper Religion Wall
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 100
● Mission To Mars
Sport
W Twin Butte > Planetarium
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
● Galactic Hitchhiker
Sport
W Twin Butte > Planetarium
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Original North Face Route E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Streaker Spire
 142
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Heirloom W Twin Butte > Genetic Wall
 45
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Reef Shark W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Starship Trooper W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 129
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Trundlers Club E Twin Butte > Trundlers Buttress
 59
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
● Space Cowboys W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 146
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Castles in the Sand E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Church Wall
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
● Moon Juice W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Upper Beach
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● Typhoon W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● Red Lizard W Twin Butte > Cemetery
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
● Mind Trick E Twin Butte > Trundlers Buttress
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
● Watchtower AKA Last Temptation E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Lower Religion Wall
 22
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Alpine Follies Hangover E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall & R… > Upper Religion Wall
 22
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Mission To Mars W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 100
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
● Galactic Hitchhiker W Twin Butte > Planetarium
 25
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Twin Butte »

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Twin Buttes overview.
Twin Buttes overview.
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