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Areas in Twin Butte

East Twin Butte 21 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 24
West Twin Butte 21 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 43
Elevation: 4,600 ft
GPS: 34.833, -111.763 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 22,321 total, 2,302/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Twin Butte is a beautiful area on the southern boundary of Sedona, near The Chapel of the Holy Cross which is a popular tourist destination. If there is such a thing as a condensed area in Sedona, this is it.

West Twin Butte is the place to be if you are looking for sport routes. Crags such as The Planetarium, The Cemetery, and The Beach Areas offer up everything from slickstone slab routes to overhanging jug hauls on both Coconino and Schnebly sandstone. There are a handful of good trad routes to be found here as well, so you might want to bring the rack in case something catches your eye.

East Twin Butte has a few sport routes, but it's the trad climbing here that's really going to spur you into action. Home to The Church Spires, The Church and Religion Walls, The Trundler's Club Buttress, and more. The routes vary from old school spire summits, to 5.12 finger cracks, with confirmed classics.

Getting There

The main access is off of Chapel Road, though alternatives exist. See individual pages for details.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original North Face Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Genesis
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow Your Bliss
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reef Shark
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starship Trooper
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trundler's Club
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Cowboys
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sun Dogs
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Castles in the Sand
Trad 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pussy Mind Trick
Trad 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lunar Lander
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Alpine Follies Hangover
Trad
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mission To Mars
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Galactic Hitchhiker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original North Face Route E Twin Butte > Church Spires Area > Streaker Spire 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Genesis E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall and R… > Church Wall 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Follow Your Bliss E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall and R… > Church Wall 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Reef Shark W Twin Butte > Beach Areas > Lower Beach 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Starship Trooper W Twin Butte > Planetarium 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trundler's Club E Twin Butte > Trundler's Club Buttress 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Space Cowboys W Twin Butte > Planetarium 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport
Sun Dogs W Twin Butte > Planetarium 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Castles in the Sand E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall and R… > Church Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Pussy Mind Trick E Twin Butte > Trundler's Club Buttress 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall and R… > Lower Religion Wall 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Lunar Lander W Twin Butte > Planetarium 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Alpine Follies Hangover E Twin Butte > … > Church Wall and R… > Upper Religion Wall 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Mission To Mars W Twin Butte > Planetarium 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Galactic Hitchhiker W Twin Butte > Planetarium 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Trying to clean these areas up a bit, so they will be more congruent with published guides. It will take a day for the route counts to adjust. Feb 26, 2017

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