Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Peter Kohl 2010
Page Views: 4,108 total · 25/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, which for the grade, stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this steep south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.

Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Shares start with Red Sky. Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging arête, a few deep breaths I suppose, then bust out the little entrance boulder problem. Climb up past amazing features on the arete and holds out right to the last crux at the final bulge. Finish up crimpy slab to the original anchors of Red Sky.

Despite protest from Burcham, the working TR name for the line was Moon Juice, which was thought up by Seth Dyer. Sometimes a name just sticks. It’s both enigmatic and unusual. Fitting for the route as we know it today.

Location Suggest change

To the left of the mini tower.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, chain anchor