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Routes in Upper Beach

Black Gold S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Co-ed Volleyball T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corona S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dangling Monkey T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doo-doo in my Tu-Tu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fame and Money T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go With The Flow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hot Pocket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Juice S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nurse Rathcet S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pickpocket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Sky T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Peter Kohl 2010
Page Views: 2,401 total · 25/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, and for the grade stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.

Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Shares start with Red Sky. Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, and then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging arĂȘte, a few deep breaths I suppose, then bust out the little entrance boulder problem... Climb up past amazing features on the arete and holds out right to the last crux at the final bulge. Finish up crimpy slab to the original anchors of Red Sky.

Location

To the left of the mini tower.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchor

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
FYI this route is misnamed "Green Juice" in the new Sedona Rocks guide. Mar 14, 2013
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
  5.11+
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
  5.11+
Easily one of the best sport pitches of the grade in the area. Amazing features! Only downside is the crux isn't longer. Many thanks for this one JJ! Feb 26, 2017

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