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> W Twin Butte
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> Upper Beach
Moon Juice
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Upper Beach
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Black Gold S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Co-ed Volleyball T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corona S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling Monkey T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Doo-doo in my Tu-Tu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fame and Money T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Go With The Flow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hot Pocket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Juice S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nurse Ratchet S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pickpocket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Red Sky T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Peter Kohl 2010 |
| Page Views: | 3,772 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Sep 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman |
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Description
Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, which for the grade, stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.
Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Shares start with Red Sky. Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging arête, a few deep breaths I suppose, then bust out the little entrance boulder problem... Climb up past amazing features on the arete and holds out right to the last crux at the final bulge. Finish up crimpy slab to the original anchors of Red Sky.
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