Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 4,586 ft
GPS: 34.83804, -111.76896
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,699 total · 161/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Genetic Wall is the set of dark red fins/buttresses immediately below and west of Devils Thumb, just across the drainage from the Planetarium. Here you'll find a small assortment of traditional lines and a pair of hard sport routes. This crag is seldom visited despite the super short approach, generally decent rock, and nice views.

This is a great place for less-experienced folks to hone their crack-cilmbing skills. Warm up on Moderna Times (5.7), Scion (5.8), and Wavy Baby (5.9); then make your way over to the main attraction: Heirloom (5.10). Extra time calls for laps on Spicy Heirloom (5.10+) and Non-GMO (5.10-). Feeling strong? Have a go at Tyrannosaurus Runt (5.11- PG-13), which still hasn't seen a second ascent. Meanwhile, offwidthers can rack up the big cams for Acromegaly (5.9) and Mombay (5.10c).

Getting There Suggest change

Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you can turn uphill and scramble the main gully system to the base of the wall. Basically head toward Devils Thumb but stop at the wall on the left side of the gully because, well, that's the Genetic Wall. Can't miss it. Total: 15-20 minutes.

10 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Genetic Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Genetic Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
Scion
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Wavy Baby
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Heirloom
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
Spicy Heirloom
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Genetic Drift
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scion
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Wavy Baby
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Heirloom
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spicy Heirloom
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Genetic Drift
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Genetic Wall »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments