Elevation: 4,586 ft
GPS: 34.838, -111.769 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,730 total · 176/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Feb 26, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

Genetic Wall is the set of dark red fins/buttresses immediately below and west of Devils Thumb, just across the drainage from the Planetarium. Here you'll find a small assortment of traditional lines and a pair of hard sport routes. This crag is seldom visited despite the super short approach, generally decent rock, and nice views.

This is a great place for less-experienced folks to hone their crack-cilmbing skills. Warm up on Scion (5.8), ModeRNA Times (5.8), and Wavy Baby (5.9); then make your way over to the main attraction: Heirloom (5.10). Extra time calls for laps on Spicy Heirloom (5.10+) and Non-GMO (5.10-). Feeling strong? Have a go at Tyrannosaurus Runt (5.11- PG-13), which still hasn't seen a second ascent. Meanwhile, offwidthers can rack up the big cams for Acromegaly (5.9) and Mombay (5.10c).

Getting There

Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you can turn uphill and scramble the main gully system to the base of the wall. Basically head toward Devils Thumb but stop at the wall on the left side of the gully because, well, that's the Genetic Wall. Can't miss it. Total: 15-20 minutes.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Genetic Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Scion
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Wavy Baby
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Non-GMO
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Heirloom
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 11
Spicy Heirloom
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scion
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Wavy Baby
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Non-GMO
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Heirloom
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spicy Heirloom
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Genetic Wall »

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