Genetic Wall Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,586 ft | 1,398 m |
| GPS: |
34.83804, -111.76896 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 14,144 total · 125/month | |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Feb 26, 2017 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Genetic Wall is the set of dark red fins/buttresses immediately below and west of Devils Thumb, just across the drainage from the Planetarium. Here you'll find a small assortment of traditional lines and a pair of hard sport routes. This crag is seldom visited despite the super short approach, generally decent rock, and nice views.
This is a great place for less-experienced folks to hone their crack-cilmbing skills. Warm up on Moderna Times (5.7), Scion (5.8), and Wavy Baby (5.9); then make your way over to the main attraction: Heirloom (5.10). Extra time calls for laps on Spicy Heirloom (5.10+) and Non-GMO (5.10-). Feeling strong? Have a go at Tyrannosaurus Runt (5.11- PG-13), which still hasn't seen a second ascent. Meanwhile, offwidthers can rack up the big cams for Acromegaly (5.9) and Mombay (5.10c).
Getting There
Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you can turn uphill and scramble the main gully system to the base of the wall. Basically head toward Devils Thumb but stop at the wall on the left side of the gully because, well, that's the Genetic Wall. Can't miss it. Total: 15-20 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Genetic Wall
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