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Routes in Genetic Wall

Acromegaly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Genetic Continuity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genetic Drift S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Non-GMO T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spicy Heirloom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tyrannosaurus Runt T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

Genetic Wall is the set of dark red fins/buttresses immediately below and west of Devils Thumb, just across the drainage from the Planetarium. Here you'll find a small assortment of traditional lines and a pair of hard sport routes. This crag is seldom visited despite the super short approach, generally decent rock, and nice views.

This is a great place for less experienced folks to hone their splitter crack skills. Warm up on Scion (5.8) and then make your way over to Heirloom (5.10), Spicy Heirloom (5.10+), and Non-GMO (5.10-). Feeling strong? Have a go at Tyrannosaurus Runt (5.11-). Meanwhile, offwidth aficionados can rack up the big cams for Acromegaly (5.9) and Mombay (5.10c).

Getting There

Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you can turn uphill and scramble the main gully system to the base of the wall. Basically head toward Devils Thumb but stop at the wall on the left side of the gully because, well, that's the Genetic Wall. Can't miss it. Total: 15-20 minutes.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Genetic Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Non-GMO
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Heirloom
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Non-GMO
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Heirloom
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Genetic Wall »

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