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Elevation: 4,393 ft
GPS: 34.83254, -111.76932
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 114,410 total · 546/month
Shared By: Ronnie Miller on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

This area covers the upper formations and lower cliff bands left of Chapel Road. For reference, the right side of the lower cliff band is the Mission to Mars area. The Devils Thumb is a small tower on the left side of the cliff band that is easily seen from Hwy 179 and is just above the Genetics Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

For Mission to Mars area, park on Chapel Road (see M2M description). For the Genetic Wall you can park on Chapel Road, as per M2M, and hike the trail until below the cliff. A better approach, however, is to take 179 north past Chapel Road. Take a right on Pine and then another right on Pine Knolls Rd. Park at the trail head at the Cul De Sac. Please drive slow and be respectful of the residents. Hike the trail for about 1/2 mile. The trail up to the cliff is about 15 feet before the first electrical box that you see on the right (west) side of the trail. Follow cairns up the ridge until it takes you into the drainage. Up the drainage past a tree and then take a hard right. Go up the ridge to the base of the cliff.

48 Total Climbs

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Location: West Twin Butte Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Scion
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Heirloom
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 67
Muppets in Space
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 23
Reef Shark
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 119
Starship Trooper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 131
Space Cowboys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 93
Sun Dogs
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
Moon Juice
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Typhoon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Red Lizard
Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 50
Do The Bosco
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 51
Lunar Lander
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 91
Mission To Mars
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 23
Galactic Hitchhiker
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Gravitational Pull
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scion Genetic Wall
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Heirloom Genetic Wall
 37
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Muppets in Space Planetarium
 67
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Reef Shark Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Starship Trooper Planetarium
 119
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Space Cowboys Planetarium
 131
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sun Dogs Planetarium
 93
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Moon Juice Beach Areas > Upper Beach
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Typhoon Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Red Lizard Cemetery
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Do The Bosco Planetarium
 50
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lunar Lander Planetarium
 51
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mission To Mars Planetarium
 91
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Galactic Hitchhiker Planetarium
 23
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Gravitational Pull Planetarium
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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