Elevation: 4,393 ft
GPS: 34.833, -111.769 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,442 total · 391/month
Shared By: Ronnie Miller on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

This area covers the upper formations and lower cliff bands left of Chapel Road. For reference, the right side of the lower cliff band is the Mission to Mars area. The Devils Thumb is a small tower on the left side of the cliff band that is easily seen from Hwy 179 and is just above the Genetics Wall.

Getting There

For Mission to Mars area, park on Chapel Road (see M2M description). For the Genetic Wall you can park on Chapel Road, as per M2M, and hike the trail until below the cliff. A better approach, however, is to take 179 north past Chapel Road. Take a right on Pine and then another right on Pine Knolls Rd. Park at the trail head at the Cul De Sac. Please drive slow and be respectful of the residents. Hike the trail for about 1/2 mile. The trail up to the cliff is about 15 feet before the first electrical box that you see on the right (west) side of the trail. Follow cairns up the ridge until it takes you into the drainage. Up the drainage past a tree and then take a hard right. Go up the ridge to the base of the cliff.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Corona
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Heirloom
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Reef Shark
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 39
Muppets in Space
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 81
Starship Trooper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 76
Space Cowboys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 65
Sun Dogs
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Moon Juice
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Typhoon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Red Lizard
Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Do The Bosco
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 36
Lunar Lander
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Gravitational Pull
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 65
Mission To Mars
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 21
Galactic Hitchhiker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Corona Beach Areas > Upper Beach
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Heirloom Genetic Wall
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Reef Shark Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Muppets in Space Planetarium
 39
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Starship Trooper Planetarium
 81
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Space Cowboys Planetarium
 76
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sun Dogs Planetarium
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Moon Juice Beach Areas > Upper Beach
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Typhoon Beach Areas > Lower Beach
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Red Lizard Cemetery
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Do The Bosco Planetarium
 44
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lunar Lander Planetarium
 36
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Gravitational Pull Planetarium
 7
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Mission To Mars Planetarium
 65
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Galactic Hitchhiker Planetarium
 21
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
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