Description

A nice, sunny cragging area with 2 main walls, the upper beach & lower beach. Great crack routes and, at the upper beach, a couple extremely nice sport routes on super hard rock. Very sunny. Stays warm pretty much all the time.

Getting There

Park at the Mystic trailhead on Chapel Road. Approach as for the Planetarium, but stay on the trail a little past the Planetarium turn-off until you reach an obvious wash. Turn right (roughly west) and hike/slog up the steep drainage to gain the cliffs directly above The Planetarium.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: The Beach Areas Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach Areas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Scallop
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Corona
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Fame and Money
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Calm Water
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Nurse Ratchet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Reef Shark
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Black Gold
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Red Sky
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Go With The Flow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Moon Juice
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Typhoon
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Dangling Monkey
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scallop Lower Beach
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Corona Upper Beach
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fame and Money Upper Beach
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Calm Water Lower Beach
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Nurse Ratchet Upper Beach
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Reef Shark Lower Beach
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Gold Upper Beach
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Red Sky Upper Beach
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Go With The Flow Upper Beach
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Moon Juice Upper Beach
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Typhoon Lower Beach
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Dangling Monkey Upper Beach
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Beach Areas »

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what the descriptions of the beach areas fail to mention is how hard this approach really is...especially for the upper beach areas. lots of loose rock, dirt and steep hiking. great climbing, dont get me wrong but the approach can kill your appetite for hard climbing. Apr 13, 2013
I found a Women's sports watch at the base of the upper beach-near moon juice. If you lost it, email me back with what type of watch you lost and I will return it to you.

Thanks,

Dave Feb 22, 2014
Brought a non-climber to the lower beach--the approach was an old-fashioned beatdown for her. Doesn't seem to get much traffic, so the routefinding isn't always a slam dunk. Assuming we followed the right cairns, there's one mandatory mantel onto a sandy, sloping shelf where some will appreciate having a spot from below or a cheater sling from above. Guidebook said 20 minutes to lower beach but double that is more realistic for a first visit. Jan 3, 2018
Matt Webster
Los Angeles, CA
Matt Webster   Los Angeles, CA
seconding some of the other comments...the approach was definitely more than we bargained for. it was our first trip here and took us solidly over an hour to get to the upper beaches area. for one, we had to double back to find the right wash to walk up...there weren't many footprints but it's pretty wide and there's a culvert. a few cairns on the way up but the trail isn't too well-marked. it's fun spot, has great views and is generally worth it, but beware the approach. Nov 1, 2018
Marm Kilpatrick
Santa Cruz, CA
Marm Kilpatrick   Santa Cruz, CA
One more comment on the approach (and descent). I agree with the other comments - it is a strenuous ~1 hr steep slog with loose rock and a few spots requiring mantelling to the climbing. On the way down, we tried a decent directly below the upper beach area (to the church parking lot), and I would mostly recommend against it, unless you can find an easier way. It was not too bad except for a ~7' drop from the end of a slot that we found after facing and turning back from a 20' chimney without a good opportunity to rappel. If I went again I'd probably go down the way I came up, which would also be a little spicy with lots of loose rock.
The flip side is that a couple of the climbs were super fun, and the scenery is gorgeous! Nov 1, 2018