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Areas in The Beach Areas

Lower Beach 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Upper Beach 8 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Elevation: 5,027 ft
GPS: 34.835, -111.767 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,114 total · 175/month
Shared By: Mike on Feb 9, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

A nice, sunny cragging area with 2 main walls, the upper beach & lower beach. Great crack routes and, at the upper beach, a couple extremely nice sport routes on super hard rock. Very sunny. Stays warm pretty much all the time.

Getting There

Park at the Mystic trailhead on Chapel Road. Approach as for the Planetarium, but stay on the trail a little past the Planetarium turn-off until you reach an obvious wash. Turn right (roughly west) and hike/slog up the steep drainage to gain the cliffs directly above The Planetarium.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach Areas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Scallop
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Corona
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Fame and Money
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Calm Water
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Nurse Rathcet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Reef Shark
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Black Gold
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Red Sky
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Go With The Flow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Moon Juice
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Typhoon
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Dangling Monkey
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scallop Lower Beach
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Corona Upper Beach
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Fame and Money Upper Beach
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Calm Water Lower Beach
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Nurse Rathcet Upper Beach
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Reef Shark Lower Beach
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Gold Upper Beach
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Red Sky Upper Beach
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Go With The Flow Upper Beach
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Moon Juice Upper Beach
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Typhoon Lower Beach
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Dangling Monkey Upper Beach
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
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Photos

what the descriptions of the beach areas fail to mention is how hard this approach really is...especially for the upper beach areas. lots of loose rock, dirt and steep hiking. great climbing, dont get me wrong but the approach can kill your appetite for hard climbing. Apr 13, 2013
I found a Women's sports watch at the base of the upper beach-near moon juice. If you lost it, email me back with what type of watch you lost and I will return it to you.

Thanks,

Dave Feb 22, 2014
Brought a non-climber to the lower beach--the approach was an old-fashioned beatdown for her. Doesn't seem to get much traffic, so the routefinding isn't always a slam dunk. Assuming we followed the right cairns, there's one mandatory mantel onto a sandy, sloping shelf where some will appreciate having a spot from below or a cheater sling from above. Guidebook said 20 minutes to lower beach but double that is more realistic for a first visit. Jan 3, 2018

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