Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Derek Field, Garth Schultz (March 2017)
Page Views: 562 total · 26/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Mar 6, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

The bottom half is right out of the Creek with clean jams and heroic roof pulls. The top half throws a bit of everything at you, with several intriguing moves through a variety of sizes.

Start at the base of the obvious clean-cut corner, using a dubious flake to establish yourself in the handcrack. Jam your way up the corner and launch over a set of cubic roofs. Continue up the crack as it flares and passes through a variety of sizes, bringing you to a nice ledge with a two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Genetic Wall is divided by gullies into three parts. On the middle formation, Heirloom is the very obvious splitter handcrack in a clean right-facing corner.

Protection

Double rack to 3" + one #4
+ extra 2, 3 (optional)
One 60m rope
Dave Spies
Sedona, AZ
 
Dave Spies   Sedona, AZ
 
Super fun. Felt well protected with double .4-3 and a single 4. 85' rap. No need to do the step across... just climb straight up to the fist/ hand crack on a few face features.

Lots of shade for a quick outing on summer mornings, or lots of sun for a nice winter afternoon. May 20, 2017
Giselle F
  5.10
Giselle F  
  5.10
For newer 5.10 trad leaders like me, I recommend taking the optional pieces listed in the pro. Classic route! Feb 12, 2018