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Routes in Genetic Wall

Acromegaly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Genetic Continuity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genetic Drift S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Non-GMO T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spicy Heirloom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tyrannosaurus Runt T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Derek Field, Garth Schultz (March 2017)
Page Views: 473 total · 27/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Mar 6, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Heirloom is a splitter handcrack of exceptional quality for Sedona. The bottom half is right out of the Creek with bomber jams and heroic roof pulls. The top half throws a bit of everything at you, with several intriguing moves through a variety of sizes.

Start at the base of the obvious clean-cut corner, using a dubious flake to establish yourself in the handcrack. Jam your way up the corner and launch over a set of cubic roofs. Continue up the crack as it flares and passes through a variety of sizes, bringing you to a nice ledge with a two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Genetic Wall is divided by gullies into three parts. On the middle formation, Heirloom is the very obvious splitter handcrack in a clean right-facing corner.

Protection

Double rack to 3" + one #4
+ extra 2, 3 (optional)
One 60m rope
Dave Spies
Sedona, AZ
 
Dave Spies   Sedona, AZ
 
Super fun. Felt well protected with double .4-3 and a single 4. 85' rap. No need to do the step across... just climb straight up to the fist/ hand crack on a few face features.

Lots of shade for a quick outing on summer mornings, or lots of sun for a nice winter afternoon. May 20, 2017
Giselle F
  5.10
Giselle F  
  5.10
For newer 5.10 trad leaders like me, I recommend taking the optional pieces listed in the pro. Classic route! Feb 12, 2018

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