Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: D. Bloom
Page Views: 2,441 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mike on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This nice route is named after a great dog and his reaction to falling rocks.

I have always found the start to be harder than the supposed crux. Even on the send I knew it was going to go once I to got to the rest below the crux without falling. However it seems most people feel differently, so check it out and see for yourself.

Boulder up & right out of the cave on stout moves to a rest. Continue up to a good stance below the crux. Clip the bolt and gun it for the next one. Continue up easier but thoughtful moves on softer rock to the anchor.

Location

Start just left of Fractal Universe (the thin crack just left of Space Cowboys) in a small cave.

Protection

Bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

Dean Hoffman  
 
Thought the first half of this route was fantastic but the upper half was way less than inspiring. 4 stars for the first half 2 for the upper, lots of loose, choss (and yes I'm used to climbing in Sedona), three options that I think hold merit... #1 intermediate anchor halfway up before you get into the choss. #2 Climb through the choss and clean the hell out of the route on the rappel... #3 transition over into the upper half of Fractal Universe and throw some bolts into what looks like amazing face climbing (I think this could = a 5 star route). Just to clarify these are just ideas not plans, just thinking online! Feb 15, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Albeit im five yrs late to your party dean, i didnt think the upstairs parts were any chossier than usual Sedona choss. Nov 16, 2015
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12-
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12-
Fun route, cool crux, thought provoking top. Broke a large foot hold 3/4 up the route that I had already tested and weighted.

Highly suggest belayer wear a helmet at this crag as that was the second large piece that came off that day. Mar 6, 2017
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12b
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12b
It seems like people are skipping the hard moves out of the cave by climbing some loose blocks out right. This easier variation is on much softer rock, and some of the blocks have already come off. Apr 5, 2017
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
 
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
 
You are correct Mike. Most people are starting in easier terrain to the right. Apr 11, 2017
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
 
12- if you do the great bouldery moves of the true start. Skipping these and doing the easy chossy start to the right probably puts it in the 11C or D range. Fun route. Thanks Bloomster. Feb 24, 2018