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Genetic Wall

Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte

Description

Genetic Wall is the set of dark red fins/buttresses immediately below and west of Devils Thumb, just across the drainage from the Planetarium. Here you'll find a small assortment of traditional lines and a pair of hard sport routes. This crag is seldom visited despite the super short approach, generally decent rock, and nice views.

This is a great place for less-experienced folks to hone their crack-cilmbing skills. Warm up on Moderna Times (5.7), Scion (5.8), and Wavy Baby (5.9); then make your way over to the main attraction: Heirloom (5.10). Extra time calls for laps on Spicy Heirloom (5.10+) and Non-GMO (5.10-). Feeling strong? Have a go at Tyrannosaurus Runt (5.11- PG-13), which still hasn't seen a second ascent. Meanwhile, offwidthers can rack up the big cams for Acromegaly (5.9) and Mombay (5.10c).

Getting There

Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you can turn uphill and scramble the main gully system to the base of the wall. Basically head toward Devils Thumb but stop at the wall on the left side of the gully because, well, that's the Genetic Wall. Can't miss it. Total: 15-20 minutes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Wavy Baby
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
ModeRNA Times
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
Scion
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Heirloom
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
Spicy Heirloom
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Non-GMO
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Genetic Continuity
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Genetic Drift
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 2
Tyrannosaurus Runt
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Acromegaly
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wavy Baby
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
ModeRNA Times
 13
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Scion
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Heirloom
 36
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spicy Heirloom
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Non-GMO
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Genetic Continuity
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Genetic Drift
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tyrannosaurus Runt
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Acromegaly
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo for routes on Genetic Wall. The two sport routes are Genetic Continuity and Genetic Drift.
[Hide Photo] Topo for routes on Genetic Wall. The two sport routes are Genetic Continuity and Genetic Drift.
Genetic Wall as viewed from the Hog Wash trail. The spire above is Devils Thumb.
[Hide Photo] Genetic Wall as viewed from the Hog Wash trail. The spire above is Devils Thumb.