Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Genetic Wall

Acromegaly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Genetic Continuity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genetic Drift S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Non-GMO T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spicy Heirloom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tyrannosaurus Runt T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Derek Field (Jan 2017)
Page Views: 231 total · 21/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Feb 27, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Stock up on 5" cams to defeat this mutant on the Genetic Wall. It's a staircase offwidth perched nicely above Sedona-ville. Sun-drenched from mid-morning onward.

The route starts with a couple bomber fist jams to get to the first ledge, then it opens to 5" (and slightly wider in spots) and stays that way until the chains. Solid arm-barring supplemented by oodles of face holds on the left wall... good ol blue-collar fun! Peer into the crack periodically and notice that it extends exceptionally deep into the rock formation, like some kind of eerie corridor. The pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor below an ugly roof.

Location

This striking wide crack is found in the drainage just below Devils Thumb, on the far southern end of Genetic Wall. It starts at a large tree on the main ledge system halfway up the wall. From the two sport routes (Genetic Continuity and Genetic Drift), scramble to the right around the corner, up the gully a short ways until you see this thing. Very obvious wide crack.

Good to belay from the big tree because there's about 15-20 feet of 4th-class choss-tossing to get into the crack itself.

Protection

1-2x #4
3-4x #5
1x #6
(new BD sizes)

Photos

0 Comments