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Castles in the Sand
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 23
votes
Routes in Church Wall
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Apocrypha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Castles in the Sand T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Choss Buster T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flat Earth Society T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Follow Your Bliss T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Genesis T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | John Mattson, Michael Hill |
| Page Views: | 10,852 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Castles In the Sand is a gorgeous line, and a burly route. This stunning neo classic is a must do if you are in the area.
Pitch 1. 5.11- Climb striking off fingers/small hands crack in left facing dihedral. Belay below roof.
Pitch 2. 5.11+ Rodeo time! Climbing out the roof crack, and riding the lip of the roof like a bull is the crux of the route. Continue up moderate crack to a belay just under the largest roof above you.
Pitch 3. 5.11 A classic roof pitch that may remind you of Coatamundi Whiteout on Granite Mountain. Do what you have to do to work out the hands/fist crack in the roof, and pull into the slot over the lip.
In November of 2012, the original first roof FELL off the route subsequently changing the quality and difficulty of this section. The new first roof goes at 5.10+/.11- and can be protected with a #5 Camalot. I have left the original description for history's sake.
Pitch 1. 5.11- Climb striking off fingers/small hands crack in left facing dihedral. Belay below roof.
Pitch 2. 5.11+ Rodeo time! Climbing out the roof crack, and riding the lip of the roof like a bull is the crux of the route. Continue up moderate crack to a belay just under the largest roof above you.
Pitch 3. 5.11 A classic roof pitch that may remind you of Coatamundi Whiteout on Granite Mountain. Do what you have to do to work out the hands/fist crack in the roof, and pull into the slot over the lip.
In November of 2012, the original first roof FELL off the route subsequently changing the quality and difficulty of this section. The new first roof goes at 5.10+/.11- and can be protected with a #5 Camalot. I have left the original description for history's sake.
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