Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Mattson, Michael Hill
Page Views: 9,324 total · 59/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 3, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Castles In the Sand is a gorgeous line, and a burly route. This stunning neo classic is a must do if you are in the area.

Pitch 1. 5.11- Climb striking off fingers/small hands crack in left facing dihedral. Belay below roof.

Pitch 2. 5.11+ Rodeo time! Climbing out the roof crack, and riding the lip of the roof like a bull is the crux of the route. Continue up moderate crack to a belay just under the largest roof above you.

Pitch 3. 5.11 A classic roof pitch that may remind you of Coatamundi Whiteout on Granite Mountain. Do what you have to do to work out the hands/fist crack in the roof, and pull into the slot over the lip.

In November of 2012, the original first roof FELL off the route subsequently changing the quality and difficulty of this section. The new first roof goes at 5.10+/.11- and can be protected with a #5 Camalot. I have left the original description for history's sake.

Location

CIS is on the wall left of the Watchtower. Hard to miss.

Protection

double set to #4camalot.

Photos