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Routes in Trundler's Club Buttress

Pussy Mind Trick T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redwings T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trundler's Club T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Seth Dyer, JJ Schlick 2001
Page Views: 7,762 total · 54/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jul 29, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Not the best rock in Sedona, but the line does have a hard to define allure when you first lay eyes on it. Maybe that’s just the masochism kicking in. Named for the many large blocks which took flight during the ground up, first ascent, and the bond that is created between people in such events. Trundler’s Club is an adventurous, heart kicking route. The line cleaned up pretty well for Sedona, with the middle three pitches standing out as the highlights.

Pitch 1, 5.8?, 140’~, Start up the slab to big hueco. Continue up casual terrain until a small bulge which is more awkward to pull than difficult. Small to medium cams and bolts take you to a comfy two bolt belay. The true definition of an “approach pitch”.

Pitch 2, 5.10+, 100’ Work your way up the stembox past some decent gear and bolts. At the little cap roof, shuffle right and make the "cross to the choss" move, and then up the long, steep crack which gets wider as you go. A two bolt belay awaits you in the fairly spacious, though a bit dingy Bat Cave. At the top of this pitch keep an eye out for the lone pocket on the right wall to avoid too much offwidthing... Set of doubles to #3 and bolts.

Pitch 3, 5.9, 40’ Stem out the cave on the climber's right past bolt, and up to a fingery layback/stem system. Look for crimps and moves leading left around a corner to a ledge and two bolt belay. Small medium cams, bolt. A short, but exposed, and fun pitch.

Pitch 4, 5.11-, 85’~ Thee money pitch for sure with very airy exposure. Somewhat intimidating steep laybacking up the featured crack will eventually lead you past a bolt, and up to a small roof feature. Bust a gut on the cruxy mantle move, and follow unique holds, and bolts up to a two bolt belay. NOTE- DO NOT TRY TO RAP FROM THIS ANCHOR.

Pitch 5, 5TH class, Traverse gingerly right past bolts, delicate rock, suspect gear placements, around corner, and down to a nice ledge with belay bolts. A #1 protects the drop to the ledge. This is the Party Ledge, of course, and the top of PMT.  Also, your point of ground return. Hope you enjoy.

Descent:

The rap route descends on the PMT's anchors. Bring a 60, or preferably a 70 meter rope. All stations are steel.

Rap 1: 90' to a small ledge with chains.

Rap 2: 30' Short rap down to the Triangle of Love ledge.

Rap 3: 90' or so to a slopey ledge. NOTE- pay attention when pulling the cord!

Rap 4: 90' feet or so down to the dirt.

Location [Suggest Change]

See the description on the main page. This line starts below a giant heuco which is roughly 8' off the ground, and you climb up to it, and pass it.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts and a standard Sedona rack of doubles up to #3 Camalot. People like having a #3.5 and #4 for the onsight.
Dean Hoffman  
 
Really, really enjoyed this route, the move to the first bolt on the 4th pitch is a doozie, but the whole route was a blast. On the rap, if you have a 70m rope you should be able to rap, straight to the Triangle of Love ledge, spacious and lovely... Was very glad to have the #4 and a 3.5, but then again I'm a sissy! Beautiful views and straight forward pitches and raps. Go do it! Jan 16, 2011
jayci Ferrimani
Flagstaff
  5.11a
jayci Ferrimani   Flagstaff
  5.11a
Great climb! Lots of variety and well protected. One #4 cam felt like enough to me. Nov 7, 2011
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a/b
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a/b
Great route, approach is too sketchy to bring the pooch. I'd recommend bringing dbls to #4 and don't forget to eat your Wheaties!!Rap #1 is almost 100ft- watch your tails as you swing in to grab the anchor!! Rap #2 is short down and right. Rap #3 follows a sweet hand crack which has already eaten at least one rope (almost got ours). From Rap #4 we TR'd the first pitch of PMT- intriguing & hard face climbing with safe but spaced bolts: this would make this a very exciting lead. The cracks above look sweet. Nov 12, 2011
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
agree with markguycan - approach is very sketchy for a dog. we brought ours per the approach described (the one with the hand line and the limestone traverse) and he wasn't very happy. on the way back we walked straight down to chicken point and it was no problem - in fact I would recommend this approach if you'd rather have something a bit longer but scenic and mellow, or if you're bringing a dog.

one of my favorite routes in sedona. Jan 29, 2012
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Vie… (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)
Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steeper face and can be pulled into the anchors. The rope won't go anywhere near the crack this way. Feb 12, 2012
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Jason, thanks for the approach and rap beta, made it very casual. The route is awesome! Thanks JJ for putting this up! Mar 25, 2012
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11a
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.11a
Absolutely fantastic route! Gear is abundant and rock is relatively solid. We did it January 16, forecast was for a high of about 60 and temps were gorgeous. One piece of beta, though...

When rapping the route at the second rap station BEAR RIGHT (climber's right)! We went left into the abyss (with 70 meter rope) and the rope ends barely lowered us onto the first pitch ramp where some shenanigans ensued. A 60 would have left us totally screwed. Jan 17, 2013
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.11a
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.11a
bring a #4 just for the end of pitch 2. Also if you have a truck just off-road broken arrow trail to chicken point and the approach is only 15 minutes. Nov 4, 2013
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.11-
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.11-
I liked the route, next time coming up from Chicken Point, as pointed out earlier. Pitch 1 was a bit friable and I wish I had a couple more bolts.

On Pitch 3 make the moves out the cave onto a ledge, once established in the crack above the ledge, look left and go for the corner jug (?) and keep traversing to the anchor.

Last pitch is easy peasy but some loose gigantic blocks to gingerly step around up there. We meandered to the top; sketchy climbing down.

Rappels were even easier with double 60m ropes. Two raps and down to ground; easy pulls.

We pretty much hiked straight down to Chicken Point. Jan 6, 2015
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11-
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11-
Lots of good info above. We found having 2 #4's to be nice.

Remember to protect the follower on the 4th pitch after the first bolt. There's a good spot for a #1 C4 just after the crux. If you don't and the follower blows the crux, they will swing out into space and will likely have to jug up a ways. Mar 8, 2015

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