Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Dunn and Jim Erdman,1992, FFA John Mattson, J. Burcham,1998
Page Views: 3,437 total · 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Super Classic dihedral on the Watchtower formation. Goes from crimps, to tips, to ever widening hands at the end of pitch one. Hardly anybody does the second pitch, and there is a pretty good reason for that.


It is really right there on your left if you are facing the Church Wall proper. Hard to miss!!


A #00 TCU and then doubles through #2 Camalot.


Chino Valley, AZ
CJD   Chino Valley, AZ
I did the first ascent of this route/tower with Jim Erdman around 1990?. I led the first pitch and Jim led the second which is a sugary loose mess. It had this loose toadstool that could fall and kill the belayer. It might be gone now. We aided some on both pitches. Later, with Brian Smith, I traversed the limestone band to the left at the top of the first pitch to access the obvious wide crack on the south side. The traverse was easy but the crack to the top was pretty crummy like the original second pitch. No fun, and I had already been to the top so we bailed. I think this is still a better pitch than the original second pitch so somebody should go do it.

We named the formation The Watchtower and the original route The Last Temptation. I don't know if JM renamed it after the FFA.

CJD Aug 22, 2007
This right facing dihedral is stout for the grade, very fun! Jan 29, 2012
manuel rangel
manuel rangel   Arizona
It has gotten a bit wider in about three spots. Last winter, a friend I belayed ripped three tiny pieces and the rock around them. Be careful and bury the gear deep enough. Good luck. Jul 19, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
That's too bad. Not a good route to fall on because the crux is low, and the gear is thin... Jul 19, 2013
Zach Harrison
  5.11+ PG13
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
  5.11+ PG13
Awesome pitch! I would suggest doubling up the purple and green C3s and equalizing them with a sliding X. Did this and felt much better about potentially falling on the micro cams after seeing the track marks of the cams that have pulled out. It may be good rock, but its still Sedona! Jan 27, 2015
Huh. I did this back in 2008 and always felt it to be around 11c/d. I guess one man's 11 is another man's 12. . . Anyway, bummer about the ripped pieces. I thought the pieces were bomber, small, but pretty dang good placements with solid rock. Jan 30, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
There's a bomber yellow TCU / .4 placement in a horizontal pocket right before the thin crack starts and the route gets steep. That coupled with 2 each of gray and purple metolius sized cams keeps this a completely safe affair. Superb route, get on it! Dec 6, 2015