Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Eric Foster
Page Views: 3,793 total · 34/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Mar 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

This is a new route that climbs a beautiful finger crack splitter that gradually transitions from tips to perfect fingers. The climbing is sustained 11+ with a 25 foot crux section. After the face crack it slowly transitions to the right where the dihedral opens up for the remainder of the climb. Enjoy!

Location

Right above easy rider, obvious dihedral above. Or to the left of broken arete. 60m rope will get you up and down. The first pitch is done and may go higher.

Protection

This is what I used on the send.

Two sets of C3 cams (only need one "000" and one "00"), Two green aliens, Two .3 camalots, One .4 camamlots, One .5 camalots and one #3 or #2 camalot where you can place in the short 2 foot wide section half way up.

Gear starts out with the smallest stuff first then transitions to the larger pieces so rack accordingly.

Don't bother with passive pro on this climb.

There are 2 belay bolts (1/2 inchers) at the bottom of the climb that are there because of the loose drop off behind the climb which make for a secure belay. Anchors are double rings (1/2 inchers).

Photos