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Routes in The Teapot

Cinco de Mayo Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
TeaPot Traverse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tatum /Burcham
Page Views: 5,767 total, 45/month
Shared By: markguycan on May 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Spout Route: great new route! South side 12bolt sport pitch almost has a crux for every bolt (5.10-) Pitch 2 is a beautiful splitter corner to the West notch(5.9). from there the route wanders across ledges on the North face to the Eastern notch, from the E notch clip a bolt and traverse ledges back to the west end (5.7). final pitch has crazy exposure as you climb past 5 or 6 bolts traversing under the west roof to the summit on the south side(5.10+). rap off with one 60m.

Location

100ft left of where Miami once was (this giant megaton flake fell off the winter of 06-07)

Protection

12 draws + pro to #4.
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Outrageous adventure, one of a kind, incredibly scenic! Here's how we broke it up:
P1: Nondescript 5.10- mudrock slab, practically a bolt ladder.
P2: Juicy dihedral with sustained 5.9 laybacking - might be the cleanest pitch.
P3: Class-3 traverse all the way left and then up a 15-foot 5.7 flake.
P4: Class-4 traverse back to the right along narrow hogsback, past single bolt (airy 5.7 step) and belay off huge jutting ledge.
P5: The wild one! Delicate 5.10uous slab off belay, then the famous roof traverse. Nailing the sequence of crossover hands in the chain of pinscars is crucial, and can make the difference between 5.10+ and 5.11+. This section is so exposed that you could spit directly downward and probably hit your backpack 300 feet below! Sep 13, 2016
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
"Cowboy Up" is what we called a project I started a few years ago. It skips P3 & P4 and goes up the steep corner then up a bolted arete. We never got it free. I'd like to offer this up to any hardmen/hardwomen who would like to give it a go. Might need another bolt or so... Apr 29, 2014
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.11-
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.11-
This was my personal favorite climb from my time in Sedona. The third and fourth pitches are an interesting little adventure that connect some amazing climbing. Don't expect to find an anchor after the third "pitch"/walk. I ended up traversing across then doing a few moves of 5.6 on a brittle flake to get up onto the saddle. We had a 60m rope and needed to do a bit of simul climbing/walking. It might be better to stop at the end of the 3rd class/walk portion and then head up onto the saddle for the beginning of the 4th pitch. As far as the actual climbing goes, I really enjoyed the first pitch of well bolted techy 5.9 face, the corner crack of pitch two was fun...wish it were longer, and the last pitch combined breathtaking exposure with a great crux. Dont mess up your sequence and its not too hard. Definitely want long runners to prevent drag. Feb 7, 2014
Ryan Z
  5.10+
Ryan Z  
  5.10+
This was a fun route. It has a nice short approach and it doesn't take up too much time. P1 had a nice little slab section after the bubbles. P2 was a beautiful cruise up a corner. The first 2 could easily be linked with a 70m. 60m would be close. P3&4 are mostly walking. and P5 was an exciting airy traverse. I was a little skeptical about this pitch going into the climb. I thought it was going to give me some trouble but I definitely felt it was 5.10. Don't let the grade fool you. Make sure you look down! Dec 31, 2012
jayci
Flagstaff
  5.11-
jayci   Flagstaff
  5.11-
Nice job Chris! This is one of the best I've done so far out here. The last pitch is pucker factor to the max. Nov 23, 2011
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.11a/b
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.11a/b
Amazing route! 300 feet of air beneath you make the final traverse under the roof one that will stick with you for the rest of your life! That, plus the fantastic climbing throughout the rest of the route make this a must-do. As for the security of the climbing, I had a hold crumble in my hand, but it was only one and it was on the first pitch. Jul 9, 2010
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Did this route with Dan Foster a few years back. I enjoyed the whole experience and remember that if you get 'wrong handed' on the last pitch you could be screwed. I think that is the reason for major differences in the grade. Choose your sequence wisely. Jul 15, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11-
mountainems: Yes, lots of people have gotten it clean. And everyone is entitled to their opinion, but 5.11+? In Sedona??? IMHO this route is much easier than, say, Castles In The Sand or The Golden Spike.

Chris: Thanks for a great route. Many people are climbing it; the word has definitely gotten out! I agree that is more of a head crux than a physically hard crux. When I first looked at that section, I actually yelled out: "You gotta be kidding me!" However, when you do the moves it isn't nearly as hard as it looks. Great fun. Jul 14, 2009
Chris Tatum
Flagstaff, AZ
Chris Tatum   Flagstaff, AZ
Mountainems, I am glad you liked the route! Ya the last pitch is crazy... When we did it, we called it 5.10... I thought that if it was on the ground, it would be about a V0 boulder problem... But 300' in the air, things are a little different! I will agree that it is not 5.10 after many people have done it... probably in the 5.11- range? It seems like people either send it no problem or grab a draw and/or all of them! I feel it has more to do with your head rather than strength. Anyway, good job I am psyched it is getting climbed! Jul 6, 2009
mountainems
flagstaff, az
  5.11+
mountainems   flagstaff, az
  5.11+
Great route! The first 2 pitches were exciting, the crack was excellent, the traverse was so so and not inspiring but the last pitch... WOW. What an amazing, exposed pitch. I will say that it think the rating was a little sand bagged on that pitch, it is definitely harder than 5.10. I am not sure if it is scarier to lead or to follow. I had to French Free on one bolt under the roof... Has anyone actually got it clean? Jun 28, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11-
P1: so-so
P2: Superb!
P3: meh... "lets go belay over there"
P4: decent
P5: another great pitch!

Nice route & great summit. The last 30' definitely lives up to the name. Jun 17, 2009
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
The Doctor and I did this climb a few weeks ago, and thought it was stellar! The first pitch has some looseness, but some very memorable climbing overall! We both thought it was 5.11-.

Here's the Trip Report:

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Dec 14, 2008
Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
climbed this a month ago and found it a tad harder than 10+ on the last pitch... felt more like solid 11 on the traverse under the spout but protected pretty well by bomber bolts... some brittle rock in a lot of spots too (pitch one, traversing pitches)... if you have your game-head on though it is a great--a true adventure! but certainly a spicy route... Dec 1, 2008
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
I haven't done the new finish to this route, but it looks wild. Way better than the Cinco de Mayo variation, which is good for the first 15 ft and then turns silly as you struggle with a V3 boulder problem to get back onto the original Toula route. John and Chris's variation does the good part of the Cinco de Mayo variation, and then stays independent of the original route by stepping out onto the overhanging south face for some major exposure. The star system is pretty subjective, but Chris and John's route deserves at least 2 more stars than the Cinco de Mayo variation. Not having done it, I'd guess that I would rate this route 3 or 4 stars. They also added 2 pitches to the ground, so that the tower now goes free at 5.10+ (before you had to aid the bolt ladder or traverse the entire formation to get to the notch). The second pitch is very nice. It would be nice if the third pitch would go straight up, but that would make it a lot harder. May 7, 2007