Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Jason Berry, Ivan Cross, Derek Field, Lars Romig, & John Domaska
Page Views: 828 total · 24/month
Shared By: markguycan on Jan 5, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Wild 1st pitch with multiple cruxes: thin and balancy past the first bolt, then pinch a rail and pull down (not out!), clip the second bolt with a long runner and traverse left on huge huecos. 2nd crux is a mantle past the huecos then a thin flared crack leads to third bolt and crux (5.11-). Up and right to the fourth bolt at a bulge gets you to a wide crack then further right to a thin and steep layback corner for the final crux of the pitch. Using many techniques on this varied pitch will keep you engaged.

2nd pitch is mostly OW and chimney with a bit of hands (5.9) FA Ivan Cross

3rd pitch exits the left side of the ledge to a long right facing corner utilizing some big gear (5.9) belay on another pleasant ledge.

4th pitch continues up the long corner (about 100ft) passing two large roofs (5.10) use runners wisely!

5th pitch is like none other. Climb easy terrain up from anchor to the imposing roof crack. This feature starts in a cave but the real climbing starts out horizontal hands with a down sloping lip. Then highly improbable climbing (5.10+)thru OW pod to fist crack with massive exposure leads you to summit.

Rap each pitch with a 60m, watch your ends on 2nd rap!

Location

South aspect, start is approx 30ft Left of Peter's Ladder. From the saddle between the Acropolis and Tisha traverse a narrow limestone ledge to the start or go lower and bust through the brush.

Protection

handful of bolts on the first pitch plus a double set small to #5 and 1 #6, nuts and many runners.

Photos