Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jake Dayley, Della Fixsen 12/2011
Page Views: 3,576 total · 39/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: 70 feet, 5.10. Obvious beautiful splitter, thin hands to hands to big hands. Belay in alcove off two bolts.

Pitch 2: 80 feet, 5.10+ Wild! Climb out of the alcove and stem/face climb up the corner (5.9) for 60ft on great rock to the roof. Do a wild move out right and continue up a steep 15 feet(crux), to a rest pod just below the final roof. Sink in some gear (extend as far as you dare), and commit to the final airy boulder problem exit out left. Belay on a ledge off of two bolts. Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

This route is in the sun until about 2PM

Location

Approach: 40 mins or one hour. From the Soldiers Pass Trailhead hike north out of the parking lot on the 4WD dirt road (always stay straight) for about one mile until it ends. Or drive and park at the end.

Leave the road and get on the soldiers pass trail heading north. Follow it up the hill for 15-20 mins.

Just before the pass there is a slick rock area strewn with black rocks/debris. Leave the trail here and head up and left across the slick rock towards a tree with multiple large low branches. A faint trail takes off from here.

Follow this trail for about five minutes until it ends in a large slick rock area that runs to the West. Looking west from here you see a large butte formation. To its right is a shorter formation, they are separated by a gully. On the left side of the shorter formation is an obvious low-angle double splitter(picture). Tasmanian Devil is at the top of the small drainage to the right of this splitter. You can see the top half of it from here. The spire farther right is Alladin’s lamp.

Hike the entire extent of the slick rock west heading towards the double splitter. At it’s western extent, just before a pour off, head left up a wash marked by a cairn. Stay in this wash for a few hundred feet until a cairn marks a point where you climb out the bank to the right.

Go up the bank and follow a faint trail/cairns through forest and downhill until you are in a large wash with a cairn below the double splitter (picture)

Head up this wash towards the cliff following occasional cairns.

Leave the wash to the right just below the splitter and traverse under the formation across slick rock following cairns.

Follow cairns up the Tasmanian Devil drainage bearing right to avoid heinous debris.

Tasmanian Devil is at the top.

Protection

Rack is listed in Camalot sizes.

1 each .3, .4, .5, .75
2-3 each #1, #2, #3
5 each #4 (old 3.5 and 4 work too)
1 #5

Anchors are bolted. Rap with one 60.

Photos