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Elevation: 6,331 ft 1,930 m
GPS: 35.03442, -111.71469
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Shared By: Chris Kalman on May 30, 2020
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Description Suggest change

Because the majority of the climbs in Pumphouse Wash are found within the vicinity of an enormous oxbow in the canyon, East/West side can often feel like North/South side. But for the sake of simplicity, think of the canyon in terms of East and West.

If you come in from Newman Park, you come in on the East side. Popular routes to be found on the East side are The Lorax, Ultimate OW, Ultimate Dihedral, and the Ultimator.

Most of the routes on this side of the canyon have shade at least for the first half of the day... some all day long.

Getting There Suggest change

There are two access points for the climbing in Pumphouse Wash off of 89a. One is at the bottom of the switchbacks, the other is by parking at the start of 237 up on the rim and hiking down into the canyon. Using a map app like Avenza may help for the latter, but basically just go downhill until you're in there.

The easiest access to either side of Pumphouse Wash is via Newman Park road, off of I-17.

This overview photo from Darren Mabe shows the beta for that access.



Once in Pumphouse Wash proper, it is easy to cross from one side of the canyon to the other at most points. Occasionally you may need to walk up or down stream a little to find a safe crossing.

30 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Ultimates East Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ultimates East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
● The Lorax
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
● Through the Truffula Trees
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 23
● The Twinkie
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
● Ultimate Dihedral
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
● Old Tomato
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
● Instant Ocean
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 17
● The Marshmallow
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
● The Beachcomber
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
● The Ultimator
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
● The Sugar Cube
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
● Hyperborea
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 28
● Pony Express
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
● Face Tat
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 8
● Waikiki
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
● Iron Horse
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Lorax
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Through the Truffula Trees
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● The Twinkie
 23
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Ultimate Dihedral
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Old Tomato
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Instant Ocean
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● The Marshmallow
 17
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● The Beachcomber
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● The Ultimator
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
● The Sugar Cube
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● Hyperborea
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Pony Express
 28
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Face Tat
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Waikiki
 8
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Iron Horse
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ultimates East »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

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