Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: D. Mabe / J.Snyder 11/2014
Page Views: 1,089 total · 23/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This "neo-vintage" moderate adventure climbs a buttress-like feature dubbed the Treehouse near the middle of the Ultimates of Pumphouse Wash in three unique pitches.
It's shortish, brownish, oldish, and chossy
but speaks with a voice that is sharpish and bossy.


It's not about what it is, it's about what it can become. UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It's not.

Pitch Once-Ler - 5.9+, 85': Face climb the blunt and featured arete, with decent pro, biggered by 3 bolts. Crux is rather sequential, but is mostly mental. Head right, for a steep thin hands trihedral of a seemingly detached pillar (though it is also possible to go straight up through a brushy crack instead). Belay at a nice perch with 1 bolt and gear (#1C4).

Pitch Two - 5.9+, 85': Is for you, to do! Beautiful featured splitter fingers to chimney, layback, and stemming! Also keep your left eye open for pro opportunity near the top. Belay on a nice saddle with two bolts. One of three best pitches on the route!

  • Move the belay by stepping around the block to the right, and follow the ramp to generous 3-bolts still in sight. 4th class.

Pitch number tree - 5.9+, 90': Tip-toe the exposed sandy ledge to a nice lower-angled big-fingers corner, and Truffula Jug.
Not to be a nag,
but watch for drag.
#hashtag sandbag.
Head for the intimidating blocky roof with jams and jugs and even jam-jugs too!
Charge on through is the thing to do!
Finish with a fairly steep big hand crack and bulge to the top. Belay at the tree.

At the far end of town

Take the road to North Nitch,
turn left at Weehawken and a sharp right at South Stich.
Where the canyon of Pumphouse bends to the west,
where the grickle-grass grows above the forest.

Thneeds

Rack two of blue to blue - C4#.3-3.
A C4#4 is handy,
especially just above the crux roof dandy.
Some nuts, #6-10 HB offsets,
takes care of the rest.
60m rope, half-dozen slings,
a few quickdraws, and your favorite sandcastle things.

Getting down

Unless you are committed to the "Lorax Loop",
you can get back down by rapping this route.

...kind of. The first rap you will have to swing to the ledge (90'). The second rap drops into the Sandbox, though aim for the crook of a giant tree (80'), and pull your rope through the glippity glup and schloppity schlopp. The last rap goes to ground (110'), and is more comfy with a 70m rope.
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
5 star description! Dec 1, 2014

More About The Lorax

Printer-Friendly