The Ultimates Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.035, -111.715 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||59,354 total · 399/month|
|Shared By:||Mike on Jul 14, 2009 · Updates|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
The area was, to my knowledge, discovered for climbing in the mid 1980's by several prominent climbers of the time, including: John Mattson, Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats, Stan Mish, Steve Grossman, and Paul Davidson. They put up some of the classic crack lines, like Ultimate Dihedral, White Wedding, and the mega-classic Ultimate Fingercrack. Although the area was infrequently visited, occasional waves of development have occurred over the years, and it seems to be ramping up again.
NOTE: For best directions with no history or fluff, skip down to the last paragraph.
There have been many ways that people have accessed The Ultimates area over the years, though none would be considered easy. My first time there, we just took the first forest service road North of The Overlook & drove until it ended on the canyon rim. We then found a gully & bushwhacked down. You can still access it this way, though there is now a trail to make it easier. People have also traditionally hiked up Pumphouse Wash from the bottom of the switchbacks on highway 89A, which is both incredibly beautiful and a very long slog.
More recently climbers have found easier (though certainly not easy) access points. In the mid 2000's a 2 pitch route called Ultimate Frisbee was established with bolted belay stations, and some climbers preferred to access the area by rappelling in (2 raps) and climbing out. If you choose to do this, take I-17 and exit at Newman Park, drive about 2 miles then turn right, follow this about a mile til the canyon is in view. Park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station, which I'm told is located at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825.
Most climbers these days use the 'Secret Passage' approach established by Darren Mabe in 2013/2014. To do this, take I-17 South from Flagstaff for about 10 miles or so. Exit right at Newman Park Road (exit 328 I think) and drive roughly west for about 2.5 miles to a right turn on forest road 253G. Follow this .8 miles to the parking spot. The GPS coordinates, I'm told, are: N35.038; W111.714 . Once there, follow the topo below, created by Darren Mabe. For higher resolution, see the original photo submitted by Darren, located in the pictures below. This is the preferred access for many people.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Ultimates
Days w Precip