Elevation: 6,055 ft
GPS: 35.0353, -111.7152
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Shared By: Mike on Jul 14, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description

The Ultimates area is located in Pumphouse Wash, a beautiful tributary of Oak Creek Canyon. It offers many sandstone trad routes and a few sport lines, with potential for more, and features handful of very high quality routes. The setting is sublime; a high-desert canyon with big sandstone walls, surrounded by a giant ponderosa pine forest. The canyon is often mostly dry, but of course in wet weather it can be raging.

The area was, to my knowledge, discovered for climbing in the mid 1980's by several prominent climbers of the time, including: John Mattson, Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats, Stan Mish, Steve Grossman, and Paul Davidson. They put up some of the classic crack lines, like Ultimate Dihedral, White Wedding, and the mega-classic Ultimate Fingercrack. Although the area was infrequently visited, occasional waves of development have occurred over the years, and it seems to be ramping up again.

Getting There

NOTE: For best directions with no history or fluff, skip down to the last paragraph.

There have been many ways that people have accessed The Ultimates area over the years, though none would be considered easy. My first time there, we just took the first forest service road North of The Overlook & drove until it ended on the canyon rim. We then found a gully & bushwhacked down. You can still access it this way, though there is now a trail to make it easier. People have also traditionally hiked up Pumphouse Wash from the bottom of the switchbacks on highway 89A, which is both incredibly beautiful and a very long slog.

More recently climbers have found easier (though certainly not easy) access points. In the mid 2000's a 2 pitch route called Ultimate Frisbee was established with bolted belay stations, and some climbers preferred to access the area by rappelling in (2 raps) and climbing out. If you choose to do this, take I-17 and exit at Newman Park, drive about 2 miles then turn right, follow this about a mile til the canyon is in view. Park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station, which I'm told is located at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825.

Most climbers these days use the 'Secret Passage' approach established by Darren Mabe in 2013/2014. To do this, take I-17 South from Flagstaff for about 10 miles or so. Exit right at Newman Park Road (exit 328 I think) and drive roughly west for about 2.5 miles to a right turn on forest road 253G. Follow this .8 miles to the parking spot. The GPS coordinates, I'm told, are: N35.038; W111.714 . Once there, follow the topo below, created by Darren Mabe. For higher resolution, see the original photo submitted by Darren, located in the pictures below. This is the preferred access for many people.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Ultimates

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
The Twinkie
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Ultimate Dihedral
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Old Tomato
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 11
White Wedding
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
The Marshmallow
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 49
Ultimate Finger Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
The Ultimator
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 13
The Sugar Cube
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 20
Ultimarete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Pink Cloud
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Pony Express
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Lil' Smokie's First Toke
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 9
Twist of Fate
Trad 3 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Iron Horse
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Twinkie Ultimates East
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ultimate Dihedral Ultimates East
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Old Tomato Ultimates East
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
White Wedding Ultimates West
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
The Marshmallow Ultimates East
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Ultimate Finger Crack Ultimates West
 49
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Ultimator Ultimates East
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Sugar Cube Ultimates East
 13
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Ultimarete Ultimates West
 20
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pink Cloud Ultimates West
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pony Express Ultimates East
 19
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lil' Smokie's First Toke Ultimates West
 19
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Twist of Fate Ultimates West
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Iron Horse Ultimates East
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Lil' Smokie Shoots for the… Ultimates West
 7
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Ultimates »

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