Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,055 ft 1,846 m
GPS: 35.0353, -111.7152
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,600 total · 421/month
Shared By: Mike on Jul 14, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

The Ultimates area is located in Pumphouse Wash, a beautiful tributary of Oak Creek Canyon. It offers many sandstone trad routes and a few sport lines, with potential for more, and features handful of very high quality routes. The setting is sublime; a high-desert canyon with big sandstone walls, surrounded by a giant ponderosa pine forest. The canyon is often mostly dry, but of course in wet weather it can be raging.

The area was, to my knowledge, discovered for climbing in the mid 1980's by several prominent climbers of the time, including: John Mattson, Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats, Stan Mish, Steve Grossman, and Paul Davidson. They put up some of the classic crack lines, like Ultimate Dihedral, White Wedding, and the mega-classic Ultimate Fingercrack. Although the area was infrequently visited, occasional waves of development have occurred over the years, and it seems to be ramping up again.

Getting There Suggest change

NOTE: For best directions with no history or fluff, skip down to the last paragraph.

There have been many ways that people have accessed The Ultimates area over the years, though none would be considered easy. My first time there, we just took the first forest service road North of The Overlook & drove until it ended on the canyon rim. We then found a gully & bushwhacked down. You can still access it this way, though there is now a trail to make it easier. People have also traditionally hiked up Pumphouse Wash from the bottom of the switchbacks on highway 89A, which is both incredibly beautiful and a very long slog.

More recently climbers have found easier (though certainly not easy) access points. In the mid 2000's a 2 pitch route called Ultimate Frisbee was established with bolted belay stations, and some climbers preferred to access the area by rappelling in (2 raps) and climbing out. If you choose to do this, take I-17 and exit at Newman Park, drive about 2 miles then turn right, follow this about a mile til the canyon is in view. Park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station, which I'm told is located at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825.

Most climbers these days use the 'Secret Passage' approach established by Darren Mabe in 2013/2014. To do this, take I-17 South from Flagstaff for about 10 miles or so. Exit right at Newman Park Road (exit 328 I think) and drive roughly west for about 2.5 miles to a right turn on forest road 253G. Follow this .8 miles to the parking spot. The GPS coordinates, I'm told, are: N35.038; W111.714 . Once there, follow the topo below, created by Darren Mabe. For higher resolution, see the original photo submitted by Darren, located in the pictures below. This is the preferred access for many people.

58 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Ultimates Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Ultimates

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Ultimate Dihedral
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 10
White Wedding
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 63
Ultimate Finger Crack
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
Ultimate Bag Of Tricks
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 17
The Sugar Cube
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Hyperborea
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Ultimarete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Pink Cloud
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 28
Pony Express
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Lil' Smokie's First Toke
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 11
Twist of Fate
Trad 3 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
Waikiki
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Iron Horse
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 12
Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ultimate Dihedral Ultimates East
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
White Wedding Ultimates West
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
Ultimate Finger Crack Ultimates West
 63
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Ultimate Bag Of Tricks Ultimates West
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
The Sugar Cube Ultimates East
 17
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Hyperborea Ultimates East
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Ultimarete Ultimates West
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pink Cloud Ultimates West
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pony Express Ultimates East
 28
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lil' Smokie's First Toke Ultimates West
 24
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride Ultimates West
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Twist of Fate Ultimates West
 11
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 3 pitches
Waikiki Ultimates East
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Iron Horse Ultimates East
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Lil' Smokie Shoots for the… Ultimates West
 12
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Ultimates »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading