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Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: T. Coats, S. Mish
Page Views: 2,111 total, 15/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

climb face past two drilled pins then up corner to anchors, or try the new direct start.

Location

100ft R of Ultimate OW.

Protection

gear to #3camalot

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
This thing is closer to 100' long. A 60m rope works just fine. Pretty hard for 10+ too. May 13, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I cleaned up the direct start of Ultimate Dihedral, and Casey Niggemyer got the likely FA of this variation this weekend (see picture)! This should become the standard route, avoiding the mossy slab with half driven pins.

Beta: Boulder up the overhanging left-facing corner to a jug. A pair of micro-cams (purple/grey metolius or equivalent) and #0.5 C4 a bit higher will protect the moves establishing in the pod and join the rest of the Ultimate right-facing dihedral. The overall grade still remains at consistent 11-. May 13, 2013
tcskis  
First ascent 1st pitch:Tim Coats/Jim Haisley, First ascent to rim (2nd and 3rd pitch not recommended) Tim Coats/Jim Haisley/Stan Mish Feb 1, 2010
Tim Sinson
5.11-
Tim Sinson  
5.11-
5.10 b? I've got some swamp land to sell U. Was on it today. 5.11- for solid leaders (bottom mossy slab, move above third piton + sustained climbing). JMHI. What a great route and area! Apr 25, 2009
That is correct, Tim and Stan. 1983 or '84
EDIT: see below for the real FA story from the horse's mouth Nov 28, 2008
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Our records show the FA by T. Coats/S. Mish

Erik Nov 27, 2008