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Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Eric Deschamps
Page Views: 1,248 total, 24/month
Shared By: Eric D on Aug 4, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

An excellent offwidth. A big thanks to Darren Mabe for cleaning and prepping routes and then opening them to the community. The anchors are located on the first ledge on the right side of the crack, about 70 feet up.

Location

About 40 feet right of Ultimate Dihedral. An obvious overhanging offwidth with a bolt on it. From Ultimate Finger Crack walk downstream for about 10 minutes. Before the canyon bends left take a look on the left wall.

Protection

1 bolt, 2 BD #6s, single set .5-1 camalots. Walk the 6s and keep one with you after the overhanging bit.

Photos

t.schwartz
  5.12-
t.schwartz  
  5.12-
ouch! Sep 13, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Impressive work on the FFA, Eric! Wish I could have seen it go down!

I originally thought this battle would graze 5.12 if not for a few thank-God jugs at its steepest part. Desperate chicken-wings, brutal rattly fist stacks, and crafty leg work will see you through. The protection bolt is convenient at the crux to keep the rope out of your way as you take the tipped #6 for a walk.

Add this one to the local o-dubya circuit! Aug 5, 2013
Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
This route was thought to be harder by a number of people and may settle in harder than 11c. With my beta 5.11c feels accurate though get on it and post what you think! Aug 4, 2013