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Ultimate Something
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Ultimates East
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Battle of Who Cares, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Beachcomber, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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End of the Line S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+ |
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Face Tat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Circle Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grizz goes to Unicorn Mountain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hyperborea T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Instant Ocean T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Iron Horse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Marshmallow, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Old Tomato T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pony Express S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pump Drunk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sucker Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar Cube, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sullivan's Travels T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Through the Truffula Trees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Lame to Dumpster Dive T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B |
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Trees Do Not Go Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Twinkie, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ultimate Dihedral T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimate OW T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ultimate Something T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waikiki T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 35.03442, -111.71469 |
| FA: | Sam F, Tyler M, the Swamp Donkeys 5/2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,081 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Sam F on May 24, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
The route has some variety and will likely leave you saying, “Wow, that was something.” The main characteristics here are the squeeze section and some highly aesthetic sugary looseness. Those with bigger butt sizes might find this route to be much harder. I have a 30” waist and fit well.
Start by scrambling up to the double cracks. Jam your way up one or the other, or both, to a spacious ledge. From there use the slanting undercling crack towards your right to gain the base of the squeeze. Place your 6 and work your way into the squeeze. From here a 7 will take you to a bolt. Above the bolt, a .4 or .5 will fit in a sandy horizontal and that will take you to a ledge above the squeeze. An 8 will likely make the squeeze section more comfortable, although not necessary with the bolt. The biggest piece I had was a 7, and the bolt was placed on lead while wedged in the squeeze.
From the ledge above the squeeze, a few easier moves brings you to a bigger ledge on the left with a two bolt rap anchor. It is possible to climb another 20 feet to the top although it’s pretty dirty.
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