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Old Tomato
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 13
votes
Routes in Ultimates East
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Battle of Who Cares, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Beachcomber, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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End of the Line S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+ |
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Face Tat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Circle Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grizz goes to Unicorn Mountain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hyperborea T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Instant Ocean T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Iron Horse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Marshmallow, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Old Tomato T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pony Express S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pump Drunk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sucker Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar Cube, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sullivan's Travels T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Through the Truffula Trees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Lame to Dumpster Dive T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B |
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Trees Do Not Go Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Twinkie, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ultimate Dihedral T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimate OW T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ultimate Something T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waikiki T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 35.03442, -111.71469 |
| FA: | Zach Harrison, Chris Kalman |
| Page Views: | 1,065 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalman on Jun 20, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Better than it looks, and it looks pretty good. I thought it felt slightly easier than Ultimate Dihedral, and is maybe a better warm up since the crux comes after a good 60 or so feet of fun moderate climbing (whereas UD's crux is right off the ground).
Climb the ultimate flare to establish on the ultimate slab corner crack. Enjoy good locks until the ultimate wet spot. Pull through the ultimate jugs to the ultimate one buttcheek semi-sit-down rest, then fire out the ultimate roof, which is protected by some small but ultimately good gear (don't miss the ultimate foot rail). Clip the ultimate bolt to prevent the ultimate rope drag, and surmount the ultimate lip encounter. Climb the ultimate ringlocks (save at least one ultimate .75 for the section after the roof) to the ultimate anchor.
Location
Continue downstream from Ultimate Dihedral less than 5 minutes until you reach a beautiful boulder with a lot of chalk on it (if you reach a pretty pool with bolted anchors for a slackline, you've gone too far). The trail up to Old Tomato starts on the right (south) side of that boulder, and goes up hill a short ways until it hits the wall in a cool alcove.
For another marker, it's just about directly across the canyon from Pumphouse Primer.
Protection
Double rack from .3 to #1. Single 2, single 3. A couple smaller pieces (.2 / purple metolius / green C3) protect the roof. If you are climbing at your limit, an extra .75 would probably be nice. Don't forget 5-6 long runners, and a short quickdraw for the bolt.
A 60M rope MIGHT make it... but be very cautious. Use a 70 to be safe.
5 Comments