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Routes in North Lizardhead

La Garganta de La Lagartija T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Spill Blood T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Derek Field & Mark Geikenjoyner (Nov 2017)
Page Views: 170 total · 18/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 11, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is the eye-catching splitter corner below Lizardhead on the north side. The name is a trabalengua meaning "The Lizard's Throat".

Start with juggy face-climbing into a slabby corner with intermittent gear placements. After a good ledge rest, lock into the splitter fingers and charge over a bulge into hands and fists. Wrestle a bush to gain the notch and hop up onto the ridiculously large chockstone. Plug some gear into the generous grooves created by one of the finest intraformational parabolic recumbent folds you'll ever see. Climb the slab/arĂȘte to a two-bolt chain anchor on the north side of the summit. Rap 100 feet back to base.

Location

This route starts in the clean right-facing dihedral directly below Lizardhead. To get to the base, traverse 50 feet right (very exposed) from No Spill Blood. Or see Mark's comment below.

Protection

double rack to 3"
one 60m rope

Photos

markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
if the 5.0X approach ledge doesn't entice you, traverse right from trail on bushy ledge about 20 ft lower, continue traverse til beyond La Garganta then head up weakness. Nov 11, 2017
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
say that three times fast with a mouthful of gatorade! Nov 11, 2017

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