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> Lizardhead Area
> N Lizardhead
La Garganta de La Lagartija
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3
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Routes in North Lizardhead
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La Garganta de La Lagartija T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Spill Blood T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Derek Field & Mark Geikenjoyner (Nov 2017) |
| Page Views: | 852 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Nov 11, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is the eye-catching dihedral below Lizardhead on the north side. The name is a trabalengua meaning "The Lizard's Throat".
Start with juggy face-climbing into a slabby corner with intermittent gear placements. After a good ledge rest, lock into the splitter fingers and charge over a bulge into hands and fists. Wrestle a bush to gain the notch and hop up onto the ridiculously large chockstone. Plug some gear into the generous grooves created by one of the finest intraformational parabolic recumbent folds you'll ever see. Climb the slab/arête to a two-bolt chain anchor on the north side of the summit. Rap 100 feet back to base.
Start with juggy face-climbing into a slabby corner with intermittent gear placements. After a good ledge rest, lock into the splitter fingers and charge over a bulge into hands and fists. Wrestle a bush to gain the notch and hop up onto the ridiculously large chockstone. Plug some gear into the generous grooves created by one of the finest intraformational parabolic recumbent folds you'll ever see. Climb the slab/arête to a two-bolt chain anchor on the north side of the summit. Rap 100 feet back to base.
Location
This route starts in the clean right-facing dihedral directly below Lizardhead. To get to the base, hike up the trail almost to the top of Lizardhead, but leave the trail and scramble (3rd/4th-class) directly up to the corner when the trail starts going hard left.
Traversing the ledge from the base of No Spill Blood is not recommended (see Mark's initial comment below).
Traversing the ledge from the base of No Spill Blood is not recommended (see Mark's initial comment below).
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