Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Derek Field & Dave Spies (Nov 2017)
Page Views: 1,393 total · 28/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Dec 1, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pepperland is a new route to a classic spire summit with an exposed, technical crux section. This stark-looking sandstone slab has a surprisingly texturized surface, sporting a subtle yet definitive chain of micro-features almost 1,000 feet above the twisting gorge of Oak Creek.

Getting to the first bolt involves about 50 feet of lumpy crack climbing with a couple 5.7-ish bulges. Use long slings on this section. The moment you step off the ledge to clip the first bolt, it's all business. Improbable, sustained, and tricky - it stays on you through all four clips. But its not over yet! Trend left on discontinuous cracks, following the natural line of weakness diagonally to the arête and eventually to the top of the formation on easier and progressively looser ground. Use the pre-existing summit anchor (new chains as of 11/2017).

Feedback on the grade is appreciated. 

Location

Direct line up the blankest part of the south face. Also happens to be the rappel line. Start at the Boy Scout petroglyphs.

Protection

Single rack to 2"
4 bolts

One 70m rope or two 60m ropes
  • one 60m rope gets you down to easy (4th class) ledges

Photos