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Pepperland
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Submarine (Steamboat) Rock
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Bring a rake, a pick, and a shovel T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Depth Charge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Down Periscope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hunt for Red October, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Motorboating S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pepperland T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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RELEASE THE CRANKIN T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sergeant Pepper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shamu Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Derek Field & Dave Spies (Nov 2017) |
| Page Views: | 1,860 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Dec 1, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Pepperland is a new route to a classic spire summit with an exposed, technical crux section. This stark-looking sandstone slab has a surprisingly texturized surface, sporting a subtle yet definitive chain of micro-features almost 1,000 feet above the twisting gorge of Oak Creek.
Getting to the first bolt involves about 50 feet of lumpy crack climbing with a couple 5.7-ish bulges. Use long slings on this section. The moment you step off the ledge to clip the first bolt, it's all business. Improbable, sustained, and tricky - it stays on you through all four clips. But its not over yet! Trend left on discontinuous cracks, following the natural line of weakness diagonally to the arête and eventually to the top of the formation on easier and progressively looser ground. Use the pre-existing summit anchor (new chains as of 11/2017).
Feedback on the grade is appreciated.
Getting to the first bolt involves about 50 feet of lumpy crack climbing with a couple 5.7-ish bulges. Use long slings on this section. The moment you step off the ledge to clip the first bolt, it's all business. Improbable, sustained, and tricky - it stays on you through all four clips. But its not over yet! Trend left on discontinuous cracks, following the natural line of weakness diagonally to the arête and eventually to the top of the formation on easier and progressively looser ground. Use the pre-existing summit anchor (new chains as of 11/2017).
Feedback on the grade is appreciated.
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