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> S Face
Jester
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 6
votes
Routes in South Face
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Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.78992, -111.77346 |
| FA: | Dave Spies & Derek Field (2017) |
| Page Views: | 1,290 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Jester is a fun pitch broken by a big ledge into two parts: an overhanging splitter and a runout chimney.
An overhanging thin-hands splitter feeds into the corner, followed by a crux layback to the big midway ledge. Wiggle up a fun easy chimney (no pro for the first half) past a roof/cap to the two-bolt chain anchor.
Location
Two-tiered right-facing corner 20 feet left of Mid-Evil Times.
Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Scramble up a short 4th-class step up left onto the starting ledge. Continue left past Excalibur and Mid Evil Times to the end of the ledge where the route begins.
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