Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Spies & Derek Field (2017)
Page Views: 294 total · 20/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 13, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Jester is a fun pitch broken by a big ledge into two parts: an overhanging splitter and a chimney.

An overhanging thin-hands splitter feeds into the corner, followed by a crux layback to the big midway ledge. Wiggle up a fun easy chimney (no pro for the first half) past a roof/cap to the two-bolt chain anchor. 

Location

Two-tiered right-facing corner 20 feet left of Mid Evil Times.

Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Drop your packs, rack up, and boulder a short 4th/5th-class step up left onto the starting ledge. Continue left past Excalibur and Mid Evil Times to the end of the ledge where the route begins.

Protection

Double rack of cams from .5 to 3 (BD c4 size)
Single 60m rope

Photos

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